Itaewon fashion brand Labeless redefines boundaries

Group shot from the Labeless 9.0 collection 'silk road' / Courtesy of Labeless

In the pulsing cultural crossroads of Itaewon, where global influences mix with local color, a quiet but confident voice in fashion has been taking shape. Labeless, a boutique fashion brand founded by three close friends — DY, Minwook and SUKEEM — is creating clothing that transcends the norms of gender, age and style. More than just a label, the trio describe Labeless as a philosophy of freedom, self-expression and community.

Itaewon matching activewear set: Labeless 13.0 collection ‘eternality’ / Courtesy of Labeless

Their bond runs deep. Friends for years, they share a history rooted in creative exploration and a deep love for their neighborhood.

"In our 20s, we lived in Itaewon and spent a lot of time here, not knowing exactly where life was taking us," said SUKEEM, who leads the brand’s visual identity and design. "But we always felt confident that whatever we did together, it would be fun and meaningful."

From these humble beginnings, Labeless was born. The idea came to life in a now-closed café in Hannam-dong called Ways of Seeing, where the three would gather with nothing more than a notepad and pen to trade wild ideas, like starting a brand of designer spacesuits. Eventually, their shared love for fashion, individuality and queer culture began to shape a clearer vision.

Brown Co-ord from the Labeless 10.0 collection 'in the garden' / Courtesy of Labeless

“We wanted to create something that reflected the spirit of Itaewon: a place that doesn't confine you by gender, age or expectations,” SUKEEM said.

With lived experiences in both Korea and Japan’s queer scene, especially Tokyo’s Nichome area, she brought a unique cultural perspective to the table.

The name “Labeless” was a natural extension of their ethos, a rejection of restrictive labels and a celebration of fluidity.

“We originally wanted to call it ‘Nameless,’ but the trademark was taken,” she said with a laugh.

Each co-founder plays a distinct and complementary role in the business. DY, the official CEO, focuses on external operations such as grants, fundraising and securing investment. Minwook, known for his precision and calm demeanor, takes care of the finances, administration and all things numerical. Meanwhile, SUKEEM channels her energy into the brand’s design language, handling everything from sketches to the final visual touches.

Roy and Nancy in washed LL zip hoodies from the Labeless 13.0 collection ‘eternality’ / Courtesy of Labeless

Rather than chasing fleeting trends or celebrity endorsements, Labeless takes a more introspective approach to creation.

“There’s no single source of inspiration,” SUKEEM said. “Ideas form naturally through everyday life — through imagining characters and the clothes they might wear.”

Their design sketches feature everything from a sultry elderly woman with platinum hair to a punk-inspired individual with a mohawk. “It’s about imagining people who are unapologetically themselves.”

This ethos carries through to the brand’s fashion line, where playfulness meets subtle sophistication. Their menswear often carries a hint of femininity, while their womenswear is peppered with traditionally masculine details — always balanced delicately, never forced. “It’s not meant to shock or make a statement,” SUKEEM said. “It’s more like a wink. Just a slight twist on the expected.”

Look sketches for 11.0 collection / Courtesy of Labeless

Comfort, too, is a priority. Even pieces that look unconventional are tested extensively. “If a design looks like it might be uncomfortable, I sample it early and actually wear it in daily life,” she said. “That’s how I find areas to improve.”

One notable aspect of Labeless’ identity is its focus on unique, high-quality materials, such as velvet and 100 percent sheen polyester that are often tactile surprises.

“I value materials as much as shape or details,” SUKEEM said. “A fabric’s durability and unique texture are what draw me in.”

Having built long-standing relationships with trusted Korean fabric suppliers, Labeless often gets early access to exclusive samples, giving them an edge in crafting distinct pieces.

Kyeongbin in high heels from the Labeless 11.0 collection / Courtesy of Labeless

All production is kept within Korea, not out of national pride or marketing appeal, but simply because it makes sense.

“As a small brand, we don’t produce in the volume that overseas factories require,” SUKEEM said. “And I need to check things with my own eyes. I need that hands-on control.”

Their choice of location reflects this hands-on philosophy. Labeless’ store sits just below their office in Itaewon, allowing them to stay intimately connected to their customers. "We wanted to feel the people who wear our clothes," she explained.

This closeness extends to their advertising campaigns, which stand out in Korea’s often-predictable fashion marketing. Labeless has featured same-sex couples and older models in affectionate, dignified portraits. “This is something independent brands can do,” SUKEEM said. “We wanted to send a clear message: The dignity of love will endure. We support all forms of love.”

Jineon wearing Glam shirt dress from the Labeless 11.0 collection / Courtesy of Labeless

Looking to the future, the Labeless team isn’t focused on explosive growth or viral fame. “We’re not chasing hype,” she said. “We want to be a brand that grows slowly, steadily. One that quietly sticks around and speaks to the people who genuinely connect with us.”

In a world of fast fashion and flashy campaigns, Labeless is choosing a different path — one paved with patience, integrity and personal connection. They may not be a household name yet, but in their corner of Itaewon, they’re building something lasting: a brand without labels, and a community without borders.

Visit labeless.kr for more information.

Nilesh Kumar is a film curator from England who operates at the crossroads of curation, events and film. His career has been defined by a commitment to cross-disciplinary collaboration, working with a diverse array of cultural and creative entities including Cinema Galeries, Louis Quatorze, Obra Architects, Soho House Mumbai and Kimchi and Chips.