Chilbul Hermitage offers stunning rock carvings overlooking Gyeongju

An up-close look at the rock-carved Buddhas at Chilbulam Hermitage on Mount Nam in Gyeongju, North Gyeongsang Province, June 3, 2022 / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

There are several major and minor Buddhist temples in Korea that run very successful Templestay programs. These programs typically consist of a schedule in which participants can enjoy a wide variety of Buddhist activities like a temple tour, a tea ceremony with a monk or nun, Seon meditation or making a lotus lantern. However, when we set off on our odyssey across Mount Nam in Gyeongju, North Gyeongsang Province, we ended up enjoying an unscheduled stay at a hermitage.

First starting in the Samneung Valley and crossing over the peak of the mountain, we popped into Yaksu Valley, across to the Yongjang Temple Site, and finally arrived at our destination of Chilbul Hermitage. It was set up so that when we arrived, we could enjoy a bit of rest and relaxation after hiking over seven mountainous kilometers. Never was I so happy to see a temple or hermitage in all my life.

Chilbul means “Seven Buddhas” in English. It’s located on the southeastern slopes of Mount Nam (495.1 m). Gyeongju, which was once known as Seorabeol, was the capital of Silla (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.). However, the modern form of the hermitage dates back only to around the 1930s. A local woman was looking for wild mushrooms and vegetables on this part of the mountain, digging through the mud and shrubbery, when she discovered rock carvings of the Buddha. With the decline of Buddhism during the 1392-1910 Joseon Dynasty, the statues and reliefs at the hermitage were purposefully hidden. Upon their rediscovery, a nun built a hut on the grounds. And in 2009, the present main hall at Chilbul Hermitage was constructed. It was also in 2009 that the rock carvings were designated as a National Treasure.

Buddha images are carved into rock at Chilbul Hermitage on Mount Nam in Gyeongju, North Gyeongsang Province, June 3, 2022 / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

As the name kind of hints at, there are seven images that appear on two separate stones. Four of these images appear on the smaller rock that's placed in front of the much larger rock wall to the rear. And on the larger rock, you'll find three additional images. The larger rock, which is 2.7 metres in height, appears to have a central image of Amitabul (Buddha of the Western Paradise). Amitabul sits atop a lotus flower with a benevolent smile. To the right appears Gwanseeumbosal (Bodhisattva of Compassion), which is made plain by the bottle of sweet dew that it holds in its hand. The final image, presumably, would be that of Daesaejibosal (Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amitabul). In front of the larger rock is a square stone with four images on each of its sides. This stone is known as "The Four Directional Buddhas" in English. There is some controversy as to who each of these four images is meant to represent. Also, from the discovery of roof tiles in the area, it's believed that the carvings were once housed inside a shrine hall.

In addition to this amazing National Treasure that dates back to the early eighth century, and hovering over top of the hermitage like a guardian, is an amazing rock carving of the Bodhisattva. This high relief looks out over a rock cliff and measures 1.4 meters in height. The image, which appears to be a Bodhisattva, wears a large, ornate crown with a robe that loosely flows from its body. The Bodhisattva is seated on a pedestal with its left foot tucked under it. The relief appears to be situated among the clouds, as the partially opened eyes of the Bodhisattva look out meditatively on Gyeongju. This relief is presumed to date back to the late eighth century.

A rock carving of the Bodhisattva at Sinseon Hermitage on Mount Nam in Gyeongju, North Gyeongsang Province, June 3, 2022 / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

In more recent years, and perhaps because the hermitage is so popular with mountain hikers, a compact building was helicoptered in for those who wanted to stay overnight at Chilbul Hermitage. It was to all this that we were graciously welcomed to the hermitage by a Singaporean nun named Wonseong, who called the hermitage her home at the time.

After resting a bit, we took a tour around the hermitage. After getting our initial fill, we were welcomed in for tea with the nun. We enjoyed a wonderful conversation covering subject matters including Buddhist teachings, meditation and Gyeongju.

At the end of the conversation, I was surprised with a one-on-one lesson on how to properly meditate while sitting out in front of the rock carvings. At the end of this lesson, and from the heights of the Bodhisattva carving uphill, I heard cheers of “Go, go!” wishing me well during my meditation practice. After this, my friend and I joined the nun in a 30-minute meditation session from inside the main hall looking out toward the pink flowers flowing from the mature cherry blossom tree in front of the hermitage grounds.

After this meditation session, we were finally put to work. Because there was only the one nun at the hermitage at this time, we helped chip in around the grounds. We tidied up, we stuffed the mat covers used for worship and we delicately removed the ash from the incense burners on the main altars inside the main hall and the Samseong-gak Hall.

The central back image from the rock-carved Buddhas at Chilbul Hermitage on Mount Nam, Gyeongju, North Gyeongsang Province, April 11, 2025 / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

With dinner now behind us and another round of tea before bed, we were surprised by the nighttime lights that shone toward the National Treasure. There’s so much more that you can see and appreciate of the rock-carved figures with the shadows highlighting what can’t always be seen in the daylight. At every angle, in every beam of light, the eighth-century creation is simply stupendous. And with a long day behind us filled with so much joy, adventure and wonder, I simply passed out inside the newly constructed building for overnight hermitage visitors.

Of course, the formal Templestay program is wonderful for people just learning about Korean Buddhism. It’s also great for people who want something a bit more regimented. However, for those who want something a little different, showing up at a temple and wondering if you can stay the night is potentially another option. And if this option sounds perfect to you, perhaps Chilbul Hermitage is the perfect place for you.

Dale Quarrington has visited over 500 temples throughout the Korean Peninsula and published four books on Korean Buddhism. He runs the website Dale's Korean Temple Adventures.