KOREAN TEMPLE ADVENTURES Visiting Bongam Temple during Buddha's Birthday holiday

An up-close view of the Rock-carved Seated Maitreya Buddha of Bongamsa Temple / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

By Dale Quarrington

• Published May 15, 2024 8:02 AM KST
• Updated May 15, 2024 11:00 AM KST

Around this time of year, celebrations for Buddha’s Birthday are in full swing across Korea. And for most, this includes visiting a temple, enjoying a lantern festival or perhaps even enjoying some temple food.

But for me, it’s a time to enjoy sites that are typically off-limits to the general public except on Buddha’s Birthday. Last year, it was entering Seokguram Grotto in Gyeongju — and this year, it was enjoying the temple grounds at Bongam Temple. It’s always pretty exciting to explore what is usually off-limits the rest of the year.

Bongam Temple is located to the south of Mount Huiyang (996.4 meters) in northwestern Mungyeong, North Gyeongsang Province. The temple was first founded in 879 by the monk Jijeung (824-882). Bongam Temple was the main temple of the Huiyangsan School, which was one of the nine original branches of Korean Seon Buddhism. These radical Seon sects were established at the end of the Silla Dynasty (57 B.C.–935 A.D.) and the start of the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392).

It’s believed that the temple got its name in 881 from King Heongang of Silla (r. 875-886). "Bongam" originally came from a story about how at the time of the temple’s construction, there was a cliff named Gyeam, which means “Rooster’s Cliff” in English. This cliff is located in the Baegundae Valley, which is part of Mount Huiyang. According to the story, a rooster crowed every dawn helping to inform people of the time of day. This rooster was considered to be a phoenix, so the temple was named Bongam Temple, which means “Phoenix Cliff/Rock Temple” in English.

According to an 18th-century survey of the names and locations of Buddhist temples in Korea, King Gyeongsun (r. 927-935), who was the last ruler of Silla, took refuge at the temple inside the Geungnak-jeon Hall while escaping the enemy’s advancing army. Shortly thereafter, all of the buildings at Bongam Temple were destroyed by fire except for the Geungnak-jeon Hall.

The temple was later rebuilt in 935 by the monk Jeongjin-guksa. In 1431, Bongam Temple underwent renovations. The temple was partially destroyed during the 1592-98 Imjin War and rebuilt once more in 1674. The shrine halls at Bongam Temple underwent a rebuild in 1915 after a fire in 1907. And by 1955, the temple was restored to its present condition.

Beginning in the early 1970s, more monks started coming to the temple, and in June 1982, the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism, which is the largest Buddhist sect in Korea, designated Bongam Temple as a special temple.

Currently, and as of 1986, visitors can only visit Bongam Temple on Buddha’s Birthday. In addition to its generally off-limits status, Bongam Temple is also home to one National Treasure and seven additional Korean Treasures.

With all of these treasures, and as you approach the temple grounds up a kilometer-long road that neighbors a meandering stream, there are quite a few things to see at Bongam Temple. To the right of the stream, and past the Iljumun Gate on the opposite banks, you’ll come to a cluster of structures that include the administrative offices, as well as a large collection of monks’ dorms. It’s past these, and to your right in its own courtyard, that you’ll find the historic Geungnak-jeon Hall.

While the rest of the temple grounds were destroyed by fire in 1907, the Geungnak-jeon Hall was the only shrine hall to survive. It’s believed that this two-tiered wooden structure was first constructed in the mid-to-late Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). It resembles a pagoda with its square layout and double-tiered roof. Housed inside this structure is an image of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). The Geungnak-jeon Hall at Bongam Temple is Korean Treasure No. 1574.

To the left of the Geungnak-jeon Hall is a collection of the majority of shrine halls at Bongam Temple that includes the Daeungbo-jeon Hall, the Josa-jeon Hall and the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall. But it’s to the left of the main hall that you’ll find a wooden pavilion that houses the “Stele of Buddhist Monk Jijeung at Bongamsa Temple,” which is National Treasure No. 315, as well as the “Stupa of Buddhist Monk Jijeung at Bongamsa Temple,” Korean Treasure No. 137. Both are splendid examples of stone Buddhist artistry.

The stele was first erected in 924 to honor the founder of Bongam Temple, the Buddhist monk Jijeung. The stele summarizes the history of Silla Buddhism, dividing it into three parts. The body stone, which is where the history is written, was composed by the great scholar Choe Chi-won (857-10th century). In total, the stele consists of a tortoise-shaped base, dragon designed capstone and a body stone with writing.

Next to this historic stele is the “Stupa of Buddhist Monk Jijeung at Bongamsa Temple.” Housed inside this stupa are the sari (crystalized remains) of Jijeung. The stupa is wonderfully ornate with reliefs of lions, clouds, Gareungbinga (Kalavinka), Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities), the Four Heavenly Kings as well as Bodhisattvas and locked doors adorning it. The roof stone is octagonal with the thick edges of the capstone adorned with floral designs. The roof stone is partially broken, but it doesn’t take away from the overall splendor of the stone structure. It’s presumed that the stupa was first built in 883 based upon the inscriptions on it.

To the west of the main temple courtyard, and up a wooded trail, you’ll come to arguably the main highlight to this historic temple in the form of the “Rock-carved Seated Maitreya Buddha of Bongamsa Temple.”

This relief of Mireuk-bul (Future Buddha) is located in Baegundae Valley, and it dates back to 1663, when it was created by the monk Uicheon (1603-1690) during a visit to Bongam Temple. The relief stands 4.5 meters in height, and it’s situated in an oasis-like cluster of giant boulders, cascading rapids and pools of emerald-colored mountain water. The entire area has a tranquil feeling to it. And if you have a moment to yourself while there, you should enjoy the area's serene sounds and sublime beauty.

Buddha’s Birthday is always special in Korea with all its colors, sights and sounds. But it’s even more special when you can visit a place like Bongam Temple that is typically off-limits to the general public. While these sites are way busier during Buddha’s Birthday, the effort is always worth this once-in-a-year opportunity.

Dale Quarrington has visited over 500 temples throughout the Korean Peninsula and published four books on Korean Buddhism. He runs the website, Dale's Korean Temple Adventures.