Ride or freeze: cyclist shares advice for biking in winter

Mark Thorrowgood poses on his bike in a Seoul street during Seoul Bike Festival on May 21, 2023. Courtesy of Bereket Alemayehu

Mark Thorrowgood, a New Zealander-Australian, is a keen cyclist who has lived in Korea for about 18 years and now resides just outside the capital in Uijeongbu, Gyeonggi Province. Thorrowgood is the administrator of a popular Facebook group for Korea-based cyclists, Korea Cycling Community, which has over 4,900 members.

"The group is really about building community among expats and Korean cyclists," he told The Korea Times. "Everyone is welcome to join the group, they don’t need to be a current cyclist or even in Korea. The group is a place for support and for learning about cycling in Korea, so all can join. To me, it exists mainly as a resource, a place where people can get advice about cycling in Korea, where they can meet other people for rides and where they can share the pictures, words and thoughts with others."

Thorrowgood emphasized that the group members are always willing to help out beginners looking for recommendations for various things, from good routes to necessary purchases."

The group also plans and promotes group rides, and supports other events such as the Seoul Bike Festival. "It can be difficult to get people in one place at one time, but it is very rewarding to meet other people and to be able to ride together," Thorrowgood said. "I am happy to say I have formed friendships with people I have met through riding together after meeting in the group."

Cyclists participate in Seoul Bike Festival in central Seoul, May 21, 2023. Courtesy of Bereket Alemayehu

Thorrowgood is one of four admins of the group, which was founded originally by Joshua David, a foreign resident of Busan who handed the reins over to Bas Kragt when it was time to move away. Thorrowgood joined the moderator team and was later made an admin. "We had never actually met in person until late 2023 when we finally met for the first time," Thorrowgood said of Kragt.

Although most people's cycling activities have petered off in the winter months, Thorrowgood continues to cycle every day, rain, snow or shine, frigid weather or hot. He answered some questions from The Korea Times about getting into the habit amid Korea's coldest weather.

Can you tell me about your cycling activities in winter or cold weather?

I am riding in the winter. Not with groups, mostly alone. I have always ridden in the Korean winter, but it does have challenges and I feel that I only really got a proper handle on riding through the winter in late 2020. I started bike commuting seriously that year, to stay out of the subways as much as possible during the pandemic.

To be honest, I had bike commuted in the past, but I had always worried about the cold northwesterly wind that blows the sub-zero weather into Korea, the wind you feel when things are deeply below freezing. I would have to ride into the wind all the way up the bike path to Uijeongbu, in the dark, after working in Seoul.

I came to enjoy it in a strange way, to look forward to the challenge of those nights. Riding into a headwind is bad enough, but when it is deeply cold, far below freezing and you must ride into it for 25 kilometers, it becomes a real challenge. For me there came to be something very fulfilling about it. People will say that challenging things like that are good for the soul, and they really are. Winter cycling can be incredibly difficult, but I also find it incredibly rewarding.

What challenges do you face while cycling in winter, and how do you overcome them?

The ice is one! After snow and rain, conditions can be terrible out there on the paths. The best thing is to wait until the middle of the day. Direct sunlight melts the ice and things dry out quickly. Snow is also tricky, especially if there has been a heavy snowfall.

There is obviously the cold as well, it’s a huge factor. Having appropriate clothing and accessories, such as warm tube scarves, overshoes, gloves and mittens and much more can be an expensive proposition. However, you can get appropriate clothing and accessories at an affordable price, especially if you build up a collection of clothing and accessories over the years, as I have done. There are certain places you can buy from, certain brands and certain strategies you can employ with existing clothing that all bring the price of entry down.

Regarding mental and physical strength, how do you stay motivated and keep up with your cycling routine during the colder months?

I stay motivated through ingrained habit in some ways, but also through the desire for fitness and the enjoyment of bike rides. It is time for me, when I can think through things without distractions, other than the cold and obstacles on the bike paths.

As I work from home these days, it is important for me to get out and about when I can, so just the chance to be outside for a few hours is great motivation.

Korea is also quite beautiful at times and I love seeing the dawn. Sometimes you can’t help but think of the weather and the land as having emotions, the stark beauty of a clear sky and a cold wind, whistling down from the bare mountains. The grey brooding clouds before snow. There is a poetry to the Korean landscape and its interplay with the weather, and you see that, you become intimately connected to it when you ride regularly in the early mornings.

Bike-themed art adorns a Han River cycling path west of Seoul in Goyang, Gyeonggi Province, Oct. 28, 2023. Courtesy of Bereket Alemayehu

Do you think people can enjoy winter bicycle riding in Korea?

People can definitely enjoy winter cycling in Korea. In the colder months, the north bank of the Han River is a great place to ride, as it is in the sun all day, and all snow and ice melt relatively fast. You do need to be aware that there can be black ice in the mountains, and on bike paths in places that are in permanent shadow during winter.

One big thing that puts people off cycling in the winter is the cold. I really understand that, as winter in Korea can be extremely cold, but I also think it’s important to look at weather forecasts. While there will be a cold snap at times, where Korea freezes under frigid air, you will also see relatively warm days at times, when riding is much easier. One mistake I do see less experienced cyclists making is wearing the same clothing on both days. With winter cycling clothing, you really need to take the actual temperature into account and if the day is quite warm, you can sweat too much if you really bundle up in cold weather clothing, something you want to avoid as much as possible in winter.

However, if you are going to ride on the coldest days, or ride at dawn during the coldest part of the night, there are certain items of clothing and accessories that are extremely valuable. Neoprene overshoes, made of the same material as divers’ wetsuits, are incredibly helpful in keeping your toes warm. Also think of your fingers, as your extremities get cold the fastest. Thick gloves are good, but they should only be used in the coldest of weather in my experience, otherwise, your hands can sweat in them. Mittens are great for riding, as they are often warmer, having less surface area than gloves, but they can be restrictive on your fingers. Having more than one option for riding gloves during winter is key, as you want to match the level of warmth of the gloves or mittens with the temperature you are riding in. The last thing I would mention is ears. They can get incredibly cold, so it’s good to have a warm tube scarf to wear below your helmet or a fleece hat.

Once your toes, fingers and ears are warm, or at least not terribly uncomfortable, then you can think about other things, like layering clothes and lined winter cycling pants.

Do you have any more advice or recommendations for newcomers considering winter cycling in Korea?

If you read advice on winter cycling, make sure it is for Korea. It is easy to read advice on winter cycling from popular websites like Bike Radar, without realizing that the advice is for people in the U.K. Here in Korea the climate is much drier than it is there, and we get colder weather, so the advice they will give is sometimes not very useful for Korea. Look for local groups, like the Korea Cycling Community, or things written about being outdoors in the Korean winter.

I would strongly encourage anyone to get out there and ride during the winter, though. You might think that you need expensive clothing and gear, but that’s not really the case. Avoid wearing cotton clothes, as wool and lycra are much better at managing sweat in cold weather, and use clothing you already have, clothing that you might use for hiking during winter. Otherwise, there are some very cost-effective places you can buy winter cycling clothing from and there are resources you can access to gather the information you need.

Also, check the forecast! If you are just starting out, you might like to ride during the middle of the day, or in a warmer spell when the temperature is above freezing. Don’t jump into the deep end! We all have to start somewhere, and it’s best to start in conditions that you can handle. As you gain experience, you can ride for longer in colder weather with confidence, but riding in the cold is always a learning experience, even for those who have been at it for a long time.

Visit korearidediary.substack.com for more information about Thorrowgood's cycling adventures in Korea.

Bereket Alemayehu is an Ethiopian photo artist, social activist and writer based in Seoul. He's also co-founder of Hanokers, a refugee-led social initiative, and freelance contributor for Pressenza Press Agency.