Jungmyeongjeon Hall: Korea’s tumultuous modern history revisited

By Shim Hyun-chul

Jeong-dong, central Seoul, is a popular weekend destination — with Deoksu Palace providing a breath of serene air and the stonewall alleyway, known for making love come true, offering a romantic urban escape.

Yet long ago this place was once shrouded by sword-bearing soldiers — Korea was stripped of its national sovereignty in the Protectorate Treaty at gunpoint by 1,000 Japanese men here in 1905. But over time, the tragic site of the nation’s downfall was obscured into oblivion and shadowed by the tall buildings that began sprouting up in the area.

Last Sunday marked the centennial of the forced annexation of Korea on Aug. 29, 1910, and Jungmyeongjeon Hall of Deoksu Palace reopened its doors. The Cultural Heritage Administration (CHA) completed a two-year renovation project to restore the original grandeur of the building, which is designated as Seoul’s Tangible Cultural Property No. 153.

Having gone through more than just a physical restoration, Jungmyeongjeon now allows the public to revisit the historical scene.

The Western-style structure was built in 1897 as the royal library but after Deoksu Palace was torched in 1904 it became the king’s main office for discussing national affairs. Here, King Gojong was coerced into signing the 1905 treaty but this was also where he gave orders to his special envoys before dispatching them to the Hague Peace Conference in 1907. During Japanese colonial rule (1910-45) it was confiscated and was even used as a club for foreigners.

In 2006, the CHA took over Jungmyeongjeon and a facelift began in December 2007 to restore the original antique-style interior.

The exhibition is divided into several parts, with the first floor presenting a historiography of events related to the edifice, while relics of King Gojong are displayed on the second floor.

In order to protect the cultural asset, there are six guided tours each day for up to 25 people per session. Admission is free of charge and reservations can be made online (www.deoksugung.go.kr).