A trip to Korea's newest city

Earlier this summer, I took a short out-of-town trip to Gwangju, only to discover that a week before I arrived, the city had been disbanded and was no more! Officially launched on July 1st this year, Korea’s newest city is one of its largest by land area: South Jeolla Province and Gwangju Metropolitan City have merged to form Jeonnam-Gwangju Special Metropolitan City.

The city government of Gwangju was disbanded, but the existing districts are maintained in the new governmental structure. Smaller cities in the former province, as well as counties, will keep their original designations. The new special city has five districts, five cities and 17 counties. Yeosu, Mokpo, Suncheon, Gwangyang and Naju will continue to be designated as cities. Administrative divisions could be adjusted as the merger settles into place and as population shifts.

I think the English language version of the city name is still a work in progress. I’ve seen a couple of other renditions, such as “Gwangju Special City” (which might provoke the ire of the rest of the region) and the literal translation of the Korean-language name, “Jeonnam-Gwangju Integrated Special City.” The new city has a population of about three and a half million people and covers a territory of well over 12,000 square kilometers.

In any event, it’s a momentous time for the country as it faces the challenges of a rapidly changing global economy. In the run-up to the merger, the national government announced plans to develop the area into a semiconductor production cluster, promising trillions of won in investment from Korea’s largest companies.

Gwangju holds an important place in the history of Korea’s struggle for democracy, as readers of this newspaper know well. Now, 46 years later, May 18 is a major day of remembrance for generations young and old. With the recent opening on May 18 of this year of the former Jeollanam-do Provincial Office as a major memorial site, visitors to the city will find plenty to observe and experience.

The Ministry of Culture, Sports, and Tourism has done a marvelous job of restoring the entire complex. The smell of fresh paint lingered in the air even though the new exhibition halls had opened a few months earlier — a visit to the complex demands several hours. There are six buildings: three former provincial office buildings, two buildings from the former provincial police headquarters and the now-somber Sangmu Hall, which served as a temporary morgue during the dark days of May 1980. The plaza, Democracy Square, features a large fountain, the old clock tower and a traditional bell.

Marks from bullets fired by the military are still visible on the outside wall of the Jeonil Building, which once housed newspaper offices, and throughout the provincial office buildings. In addition to that, several memorial plaques have been placed on the grounds and in the hallways and rooms where military rifles gunned down democracy advocates.

Many of the rooms in the complex have been preserved to show what they looked like in May of 1980, such as the police chief’s office, the governor’s offices, the communication room and the conference rooms where peace talks were held. Most of the former workplaces, though, have been converted into exhibitions about the events surrounding the events. A large library offers a multitude of digitized archival documents and recordings, and a large collection of oral histories has also been compiled. Exhibits throughout offer both visual and auditory experiences using media and technology. Artifacts are in abundance. Explanation panels provide relevant information. Elevators are available for those who need mobility assistance. The Gwangju metro and city bus lines serve the complex. Public parking is available, too.

In the area behind the buildings, a large cultural and arts complex has been built, offering well-appointed children’s education spaces, convenience stores, coffee shops, and a museum shop. Honestly, the coffee shop I stopped in provided welcome relief from all the walking, and a space to recharge after two or three hours in the exhibition halls.

Jeonnam-Gwangju Special Metropolitan City offers a myriad of historical and cultural sites for visitors, but the former Jeollanam-do Provincial Office is a must-visit. The experience there is one of somber remembrance and reverent contemplation. The spirits of those who sacrificed so much in May 1980 will live forever in the hearts and minds of all patriots.

Rev. Steven L. Shields, FRAS {slshields@gmail.com} has lived in Korea for many years, beginning in the 1970s. A Fellow of the Royal Asiatic Society of Great Britain and Ireland, he is also a life member of the Royal Asiatic Society of Korea, of which he was a director, vice president, and president. He was a copy editor of The Korea Times in 1977. The views expressed in this column are the author’s own and do not necessarily reflect The Korea Times’ editorial stance.