Hot springs of the past: Korea's north

Jueul Hot Springs in the 1930s was “a world in itself.” Robert Neff Collection

Over the past couple of decades, saunas (jjimjilbang), spas and hot springs have become popular attractions for foreign tourists. North Korea has a large number of hot springs, and many of them have interesting histories centered around healing. One such place is Jangdol Hot Spring, which traces its history back to an ancient legend involving a skylark (jangdolsae) with a broken leg that landed near a hot spring and was quickly healed.

By the early 20th century, these hot springs became popular spots for foreigners — albeit most visitors were probably Japanese.

In 1907, Thomas Sammons, the American consul in Seoul, described six of the most “notable hot springs” on the Korean Peninsula. Somewhat surprisingly, most of them were in the northern part of the peninsula, and he neglected to mention the best-known hot springs near Fusan (modern Busan).

Chitose Hotel at Jueul Hot Spring in the 1930s / Robert Neff Collection

According to Sammons, three of the most notable hot springs were near Chinnampo (modern Nampo in North Korea), but he was not impressed with them as they were located “in low land, unattractive in every way and without bathing accommodations.”

Near the foreign gold mining concessions north of Pyongyang, there were several small hots springs but the most popular was Sung-chun. Located near the British gold mining concession (Gwendoline), it was often frequented by the miners — presumably Koreans — who established a resort for themselves where they could relax and soothe their sore muscles in the hot water.

Sammons described the spring as “a well-shaped pool” nearly six meters deep, but provided no real information. Fortunately, Edward McCarthy, the general manager of the mining concession, did write about his experience at the hot spring in the early 1900s:

“These springs are well-known in Corea for their curative properties, and the small village where the baths are located depends for its support on visitors. Our men often used to go for a week-end to take a few baths, but they did not tempt me, and although they offered to clear everyone out of the public bath, I did not fancy a bathe in waters where every diseased person imaginable had bathed. The bath was quite a large one, built under cover, with the hot springs bubbling up continually inside, and with a steady overflow.”

Chitose Hotel and its staff in the 1930s / Robert Neff Collection

These springs were extremely hot and ranged from 55 to 88 degrees Celsius, but the hottest spring was at Yangtuk (near Wonsan), where the temperature exceeded 95 degrees. This hot spring was “in some ways the most attractive” and largest of the springs he described, but Sammons was disappointed with its “very poor provision for bathers.”

This region had numerous hot springs that were occasionally visited by Westerners. In the early 1890s, while exploring Mount Paektu, H. Goold-Adams, an English explorer, described several sulfur springs that ran down into a small stream. Goold-Adams and his Korean guide bathed in a small pool:

“The temperature even here was as hot as an ordinary hot bath and the water smelt horribly, but we were very thankful to be able to wash anywhere and we certainly were in need of it.”

One of Chitose Hotel’s buildings in the 1930s or early 1940s / Robert Neff Collection

Singye Temple — a Buddhist temple located in the Diamond Mountains — was a popular resting place for travelers. In the 1890s, William Scranton, an American missionary, in his short article he extolled the virtues of the temple including its solitude, friendly priests and nearby attractions including the "Nine Dragon Pool," waterfalls and hot springs.

In 1903, another American missionary, Jacob Robert Moose, provided a more detailed description of the nearby hot springs:

“Near this temple we found a hot spring which if in the United States of America would at once be famous and a fortune to its owner. In these mountains, so far as I can judge, there are no signs of volcanic action; so I was surprised to find this hot spring bursting forth as if from the regions of eternal fires. It is in a small valley about five miles inland from the coast, seventy miles down from Wonsan, and has been used by the Koreans for hundreds of years. There are the remains of what seem to have been substantial buildings of considerable dimensions; but now there are only about half a dozen thatched houses standing. The spring is walled up with large slabs of stone and is about six by nine feet, and a foot and a half deep; though it may be made twice that depth if so desired. The water, which is so hot that it is with difficulty one can lie down in it, is abundant, clear as crystal and very soft, leaving the body in a most delightful condition when the bath is over. This will some day in the not distant future be one of Koreans famous resorts and those who are seeking health and recreation will find it pleasant to linger here.”

His prediction proved true, but unfortunately, during the 1950-53 Korean War, the temple was destroyed.

There are other popular hot springs that survived.

The bathing facilities at Chitose Hotel in the 1930s or early 1940s / Robert Neff Collection

According to the Korean Customs Reports from 1900, there was a very popular hot spring near Seongjin (modern Kimchaek in North Korea) famed for being “very efficacious for a number of ailments” — including rheumatism — and was “much used by the neighbouring villagers for bathing purposes.” This may have been Jueul hot springs.

In the spring of 1903, while itinerating, Alex Robb, a Canadian missionary, visited the hot spring and noted that an enterprising Korean gentleman had built a “bathing hut.” The missionary and his party decided to partake in the curative waters of the spring. In his notes, he initially described his experience as being “very refreshing,” but that sentiment changed quickly.

Apparently, hot springs throughout Korea were used not only for medicinal purposes but also to assist local industries. According to Sammons, “The Koreans make use of the water for such purposes as immersing their hemp to remove the bark.” However, our Canadian missionary was shocked to discover that sore, diseased bodies and hemp were not the only things to be dipped in the hot water.

After bathing, they discovered that “the hot, bubbling spring was a favourite spot for removing feathers and hair from slaughtered hens, dogs and pigs” and their initial refreshment faded quickly.

Singye Temple, seen here in the first half of the 20th century, was later destroyed during the Korean War. Robert Neff Collection

Jueul (now known as Gyeongseong) Hot Springs is still a popular health resort in North Korea. According to one source, the construction of a modern spa began at the end of 1919 and was likely completed shortly afterward. It does not challenge the imagination to assume this site was especially popular during the uneasiness caused by the Spanish flu pandemic. Another source claims it was the Yankovsky family who established this resort — but I have my doubts as to its accuracy.

In the late 1940s, Jueul Hot Spring was developed as a sanatorium and, apparently, continues to operate. The hot spring is praised for its positive effect on a litany of diseases, including rheumatoid arthritis, gout, gastric diseases, inflammation, infertility and menopausal disorders.

Tomorrow we will examine hot springs in the southern part of the Korean Peninsula.

My appreciation to Diane Nars and Hyunuk Park for their assistance.

Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books, including Letters from Joseon, Korea Through Western Eyes and Brief Encounters.