Journey to Gongju, the ancient capital of Ungjin
Summary
The writer visited Magok Temple, the tomb of King Muryeong and Gongsan Fortress in Gongju during a Saturday outing in October. At Magok Temple, the writer reflected on Kim Gu’s refuge there and the tree he planted; the tomb displayed Baekje craftsmanship and cultural exchanges. Gongsan Fortress served as Baekje’s capital from 475 to 538, before the court moved to Sabi. The twelve-hour trip left the writer reflecting on cultural heritage as a living bridge between generations.
Key Facts
- Magok Temple was founded in 640 and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
- Kim Gu sought refuge at Magok Temple while evading Japanese authorities and temporarily became a monk; after returning to Korea in 1946, he planted a Rose of Sharon and an incense tree there.
- The tomb of King Muryeong, Baekje’s 25th ruler, was discovered in 1971 and yielded more than 2,900 artifacts, including gold ornaments, bronze mirrors, silver cups and gilt-bronze shoes.
- A mythical guardian beast called a jinmyosu, with a single horn, stands at the tomb entrance and was believed to ward off evil spirits.
- The writer’s group left Seoul at 8 a.m. and boarded the bus back at 8 p.m. after eating octopus soup with local chestnuts.
Beautiful painted buildings at Magok Temple / Courtesy of Shin Hye-suk
On a drizzly Saturday in October, we left Seoul at 8 a.m. aboard a luxury limousine bus provided by the Seoul JoongAng Rotary Club for its annual autumn outing.
Our first destination in Gongju, the ancient capital of Baekje, was Magok Temple, founded in 640. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the temple exudes a quiet grandeur. Its weathered wooden buildings with faded traditional decorative patterns and graceful tiled roofs reflect centuries of Buddhist devotion. A clear stream winds through the surrounding mountains, while peaceful forest trails invite quiet reflection. The temple stay program made me imagine spending a peaceful night here, away from modern distractions.
Magok Temple also preserves a chapter of modern Korean history. Kim Gu, the renowned independence activist and president of the Korean Provisional Government in Shanghai, once sought refuge from Japanese authorities there and temporarily became a monk while evading arrest. Returning to Korea in 1946 from Shanghai after liberation, he planted a Rose of Sharon, Korea’s national flower, along with a tree whose wood was used for incense in Buddhist rituals. The incense tree still stands near Baekbeomdang, the residence associated with his stay. Seeing this living trace of Kim Gu, I was moved by how a single tree can preserve a patriot’s memory and enduring love for his country.
Royal accessories from tomb of King Muryeong / Courtesy of Shin Hye-suk
After a leisurely walk through the temple grounds, we visited the tomb of King Muryeong (501-523), Baekje’s 25th ruler. Discovered in 1971, it yielded more than 2,900 artifacts, including gold ornaments, bronze mirrors, silver cups and gilt-bronze shoes. Their exquisite craftsmanship displays Baekje’s artistic sophistication and its cultural exchanges with the wider world.
At the entrance stands a mythical guardian beast known as a "jinmyosu," distinguished by a single horn protruding from its head. Believed to keep away evil spirits, this unusual creature embodies humanity’s timeless desire for safety and peace in the face of uncertainty.
Next, we boarded the Gongju Goma Train, whose cheerful teddy-bear mascot recalls the city's legendary association with bears. After passing historic landmarks and walking along a pine forest trail, we glimpsed a traditional "hanok" village through the window, filled with traditional Korean houses. I wished I could stay longer to explore Ungjin, the ancient Baekje name for Gongju.
As evening fell, we explored Gongsan Fortress in the gentle rain. Serving as Baekje’s capital from 475 to 538, it witnessed a pivotal period in the kingdom’s history before the court moved to Sabi, which is present-day Buyeo. Watching the rain fall on its ancient walls, I felt grateful to our ancestors for preserving this precious heritage.
After enjoying a hearty bowl of octopus soup with local chestnuts, we boarded the bus for Seoul at 8 p.m. In just twelve hours, we had traveled through centuries of Korean history.
Reflecting on Magok Temple, the tomb of King Muryeong and Gongsan Fortress, I realized that cultural heritage is more than a collection of ancient sites; it is a living bridge between generations. What stories will these timeless treasures tell those who visit a thousand years from now?
Shin Hye-suk (sinesu@naver.com), who also goes by Shindy, completed a doctorate in sociology and has devoted two decades of her life to academic pursuits at a university in Japan. She is also a florist and currently serves as an adviser to the Seoul JoongAng Rotary Club International, Korea.
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