Mount Yeongchwi Azalea Festival

Azaleas are ubiquitous on the Korean Peninsula. These flowers are some of the first to bloom in early spring. Their persistent vitality is deeply linked to Korean emotions, especially deep sorrow.

For this reason, the song “Azalea,” written by Kim So-wol in 1922, while the country was under Japanese colonization, is like a national anthem. The azalea itself seems identifiable with Korea, Koreans and Koreanness. It is one of most commonly recited poems in the nation.

When you leave,
weary of me,
without a word I shall gently let you go.

From Mount Yak
in Yongbyon,
I shall gather armfuls of azaleas
and scatter them on your way.

Step by step
on the flowers placed before you
tread lightly, softly as you go.

When you leave,
weary of me,
though I die, I'll not let one tear fall.

(Translated by David McCann)

During the mid-1970s, I was a middle-school student. When I hiked four kilometers or so over a low mountain, I would recite this poem. Azaleas would appear there as early as March because the mountain was bare and had no trees. On my way home from school, I would pick up azalea petals and eat them with my friends.

At that time, most of the mountains were bare. Villagers had cut down many of the trees to use as firewood.

Later, villagers used anthracite for fuel in their kitchens instead of wood. A reforestation project begun before the 1988 Seoul Olympics led to dense plantings of trees in the mountains. With so many trees, it was no longer easy for citizens to see the azalea flowers and colonies.

Since 1993, an azalea festival has been held in Mount Yeongchwi in Yeosu, South Jeolla Province. The azalea colony there is huge and spreads along the ridge of the mountain.

"Sansinryeongje," a Korean mountain-spirit ritual, was held on the last weekend of March. Visitors, including foreigners, walked around taking photos of the pink flowers. They also enjoyed observing the numerous structures of the Yeosu Industrial Complex, set against the blue sky and wide sea.

I traveled from the back gate of the GS Caltex factory to Jinrae Peak, the top of the mountain, taking about three hours or so. The trees, which were 20 to 30 years old, were more than two meters tall. After it rains, the flowers bloom in fresh, dark pink.

I also took pictures of the azaleas and sent them to my friends. One friend said, “Until now, I had only imagined the azaleas of Mount Yak in Yeongbyeon. But from now on, I will consider the azaleas of Mount Yeongchwi to be the best.”

Highlighting traditional culture and preserving the ecosystem through the azalea festival is a popular way for the local government to attract tourists. By doing so, the older generation recalls the nostalgia of the past, and the younger generation learns about our culture. The festival serves as the centerpiece for generations.

He is a retired English teacher who published a book titled, "Flower Is Flower."