Centuries of kimchi

By William R. Jones

Kimchi is regarded as the national food and signature dish of Korea. There are at least 47 factories in Korea certified for the production of kimchi.

Now more than 200 historic and current varieties are documented by the Kimchi Field Museum in Seoul and the Kimchi Museum in Gwangju's Kimchi Town and the World Institute of Kimchi next to it.

One that originated with Koreans and that has spread to the four corners of the earth and even to outer space in 2008 via former astronaut Yi So-yeon is “baechu” kimchi spiced with garlic seasoned red chili pepper. The canned kimchi was labeled “Korean Space Food” and another freeze-dried kimchi came in a plastic package to which you add water and shake.

During the Korean War, the South Korean government commissioned scientists to create “ration-kimchi” as the saying goes: An army marches on its stomach. This product, in tins, was the very first non-homemade kimchi in the entire history of kimchi in its native country.

A little later, again, canned kimchi was shipped and supplied to Korean troops in Vietnam. “This was the first mass production of kimchi on a modern industrial scale that was based on scientific research.” And, this ration-kimchi increased morale and had not merely added a savory flavor to bland battleground meals, but finally served to spark a commercial industry of a natural, healthy, spicy, and functional food for global consumption thereafter. As of 2016, the Korean military was provided MREs (Meals Ready-to-Eat) field rations with Type I having one packet of 100 grams of kimchi.

Today some of the key drivers and top players in the global kimchi market are Daesang Corporation, Dongwon Group and Pulmuone Company. Also strong in the U.S. are Sinto Gourmet and King's Asian Gourmet of San Francisco, Cosmos Food Company and MIL Kimchi Incorporated in Southern California, Lucky Foods, Choi's Kimchi Company in Oregon and Sunja's Kimchi in Vermont.

Of course, it was the diaspora of the Korean people that introduced kimchi to the world and rendered the greatest impression, as where people go their food goes, serving second only to language as a distinguishing feature of their culture. It is unthinkable for Koreans to have a meal without kimchi. “A man can live without his wife, but not without kimchi” is an old Korean saying.

Travelers returning from Korea were struck by the uniqueness of kimchi and it swayed their appetites, thus, in the late 1890s, the cuisinic expression began to appear in North American print. And, shortly thereafter “kimchi” as a loanword appeared in Merriam-Webster's dictionary. And, we find today, due to trade efforts and promotional cultural exchanges (kimchi diplomacy), an arrayed relishing concoction of fusion foods such as hamburgers, pizzas, tacos and hotdogs, etc. topped efficaciously with kimchi staying power.

Whether you are a gourmet or gourmand here or abroad, you may wish to tantalize your taste buds either with a kimchi entree or appetizer and become one of the millions of aficionados promoting culinary globalization. For the present, we eat what we wish, but the day may arrive when we eat what we must. For now, my kitchen is continuously redolent of kimchi.

As a final note, after a serving, don't worry about your skin pores exuding scent or your breath's odorous emanation. To be sure, it's an aroma to millions upon millions. Just remember to “Smile and say 'kimchiii!'”

The author (wrjones@vsu.edu) published the novella, "Beyond Harvard," and presently teaches English as a second language.