Hidden Jewel of Asia

By Lee Sun-ho

Brunei, officially Negara Brunei Darussalam, is one of the oldest kingdoms in the world as well as one of the youngest independent nations in Southeast Asia.

It is a tiny, oil-rich sultanate with a territory of 5,766 square kilometers ― or half the size of Gyeonggi Province ― situated on the northwestern coast of the Island of Borneo, with inhabitants of slightly over 380,000 ― similar to numbers in Mapo-gu, Seoul. My memory returns me to the national receptions at the dawn of each year at the invitation of the Bruneian Embassy in Seoul on the occasion of its independence from the United Kingdom, Jan. 1, 1984.

For a few days in October, I toured around to see some of the tropical spots of this fairy tale-like monarchy with an unbroken line over six centuries since 1363. There I was able to discover various unmatched features of this unique kingdom of unexpected treasures.

Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah, born on July 15, 1946, is an almighty majesty backed not only by his wealth as one of the richest men in the world but also his sultanate dignity as the supreme executive authority as well as the head of state/government, and serving as the country's prime minister, defense and finance ministers.

Istana Nurul Iman, the main gate that I visited at night, is the world's largest residential palace with 1,788 rooms. The Royal Regalie Centre Museum built in 1992 preserves remnants of historic royal events, important documents and precious souvenirs. I found a Grand Order of Mugunghwa (Rose of Sharon), a torch for the 1988 Seoul Olympics and replicas of a Silla Dynasty golden crown and a celadon porcelain, all presented to His Majesty by former Korean heads of state.

Islam is the official religion and the Sultan is also the religious leader of the country. The Brunei government is run based on the philosophy of Melayu Islam Beraja (Malay Islamic Monarch or MIB) proclaimed by the Sultan on the day of Brunei's independence.

As important landmarks, the Islamic state retains many large beautiful mosques around the country. The fabulous mosque, named after the 28th Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien, is a gorgeous mix of Moorish design infused with elements of modern and European influences. The Jame Asr Hassanal Bolkiah Mosque, locally called Kiadong Mosque, where 29 domes glitter with 24K gold and other jewels symbolizing the 29th monarch's succession to the throne, is the most magnificent mosque in Brunei, accommodating 4,500 worshippers.

The Empire Hotel & Country Club located in Jerudong, where I lodged during my stay in Brunei, is one of two seven-star hotels in the world and was voted the best resort hotel in Asia last year. It is also Asia's ultimate golf, spa and family beach, where I enjoyed a gastronomic journey each day, watched the film ``Mama Mia'' at its fantastic three-screen cinema, and tried for the first time parasailing looking down on spectacular ocean views. The hotel takes pride in its ``26 alphabetical advantages'' from A (architectural design) to Z (zzzzz, which means being sound asleep).

I also had the opportunity of visiting Kampong Ayer by motorboat. It is an area in Bandar Seri Begawan (the capital city of about 16㎢ with 230,000 citizens) situated in the middle of the Brunei River. Once named the Venice of the East by Ferdinand Magellan's expedition, it is home to more than 30,000 people as the world's largest water village and the country's most valuable river settlement heritage. It is notable that within the boundary of Kampong Ayer there exist eight schools, one firehouse, one police station, boat moorages on the riverfront and car parking lots on the river edge for each house.

Western Brunei is the major economic and administrative hub of the nation where most of the population lives. In contrast, Temburong is an isolated eastern district, famous for its pristine rainforests and natural habitants. It is the second-largest district in space but the least populated (less than 10,000 people) and largely underdeveloped.

Ulu Temburong National Park is the green heart of Borneo as well as the lungs of Asia. A round jungle trekking course on the 300 meter-high summit from the river edge through 60-degree muddy slopes was an unanticipated adventure and toil for me. After reaching the peak and then walking up 315 steps, I had the thrilling experience of crossing the five 42-meter-high canopy walkways above the ridgeline. However, the panorama of the tropical jungles above the loftiest canopy was the most breathtaking moment I have ever had.

Up to 70 percent of Bruneians can be called public servants, including ``imams" and teachers, who are happy-go-lucky people. Oil wealth, accounting for nearly half of GDP, allows the Brunei government to provide the population with one of Asia's best healthcare systems, free education, and food and housing subsidies. A large portion of the labor force is from the Philippines, Indonesia, Thailand, India and Bangladesh while American and British professionals are engaged in industry, education and medical services. The number of vehicles in Brunei, including those owned by the Sultan's royal collection of 5,000 vehicles (Rolls-Royce supplied 350 cars to him), is around 800,000 more than twice the population.

It was noteworthy that this pint-sized, well-to-do economy is a mixture of domestic and foreign entrepreneurship, government regulation, welfare measures and village tradition. The main expressway called the Pan Brunei Highway was a joint scheme with Malaysia. Few Bruneians recognize that South Korean President Lee Myung-bak was involved in the construction and engineering project when he was CEO of the Hyundai Group. Numerous signboards advertising Japanese manufacturers set up there in the commercial quarters, including Gadong and Kiulap, reminded me of Japan's efforts to sell its products and services in this country. I could only see a couple of signboards for LG and Samsung advertising electronics products, and some motor vehicles from Hyundai and Kia.

The Brunei Times, the brainchchild of a media company and Borneo Bulletin, an independent newspaper of Brunei, Sabah and Sarawak are two local dailies read by the general public. Radio Televisyen Brunei broadcast both KBS1 (channel 17) and Arirang (channel 18). While I stayed there, Bruneian news media reported a series of suicides committed by South Korean entertainment celebrities together with North Korea's nuclear disarmament deal and the public appearance of its leader Kim Jong-il.

While the blessed golden kingdom has made leaps and bounds in non-oil areas of technology and infrastructure, tranquility still reigns at its heart, and for that, Brunei has been called the Abode of Peace (Darussalam), an appropriate expression for the serene paradise that the nation really is.

The writer is the representative consultant of Sang-G Business Consulting Co., Ltd. in Seoul. This article is his 200th contribution to this column since he started writing on Sunday, Oct. 15, 1967. His e-mail address is kexim2@unitel.co.kr.