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From bold to understated: How Korea’s first ladies use fashion to send diplomatic signals

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First lady Kim Hea Kyung wears a green and yellow hanbok at the G7 welcome dinner in Alberta, Canada, June 16. Korea Times file

First lady Kim Hea Kyung wears a green and yellow hanbok at the G7 welcome dinner in Alberta, Canada, June 16. Korea Times file

South Korean first lady Kim Hea Kyung drew attention during her diplomatic debut by donning a hanbok with a soft green and yellow palette — offering a sharp contrast to the bold fashion statements previously made by former first lady Kim Keon Hee.

Kim, wife of President Lee Jae Myung, appeared in traditional Korean attire at a welcome dinner hosted on June 16 (local time) by Danielle Smith, the premier of the Canadian province of Alberta, during the Group of Seven (G7) summit. While most attendees opted for formal Western dress, Kim stood out in a pastel yellow skirt and green jeogori (jacket), garnering significant attention.

“The first lady’s hanbok drew a lot of interest,” a presidential office official said. “Many guests approached the president and first lady for photos.”

Experts say her appearance subtly bolstered Korea’s image following the recent controversy surrounding the recent martial law fiasco. The hanbok’s green jacket and yellow skirt — known in Korean as nok-ui-hwang-sang — was interpreted as conveying dignity and balance. Some observers noted that the purple collar on the green jacket symbolized the mugunghwa, Korea’s national flower.

“The yellow skirt represents inclusiveness and reform, while the green jacket symbolizes stability,” said Kang Jin-joo, director of the Personal Image Research Institute. “It reflects the vision of a renewed Korea (after the martial law controversy).”

First lady Kim Hea Kyung delivers opening remarks during a meeting with the local Korean community at the Calgary Korean Association in Calgary, Alberta, June 17. Korea Times file

First lady Kim Hea Kyung delivers opening remarks during a meeting with the local Korean community at the Calgary Korean Association in Calgary, Alberta, June 17. Korea Times file

The following day, Kim wore a light blue dress to an event with Korean residents in Canada, similar to the sky-blue two-piece she wore when departing Seoul Airport. She was seen with no jewelry or handbag, with some fashion commentators interpreting her use of soft, clean colors as a message of hope for Korea’s future.

Former first lady Kim Keon Hee visits Madrid, Spain, June 2022. Korea Times file

Former first lady Kim Keon Hee visits Madrid, Spain, June 2022. Korea Times file

Her understated style contrasts with the fashion diplomacy of Kim Keon Hee, wife of former President Yoon Suk Yeol. During her own diplomatic debut at the NATO summit in Madrid in June 2022, Kim gained global attention for her bold and varied outfits. She wore a white dress, a houndstooth-patterned suit and a striking ensemble of a yellow top and blue skirt reminiscent of the Ukrainian flag. She also made headlines for pairing a black blazer with a deep teal skirt.

“Kim Keon Hee used fashion as a tool for diplomatic messaging, making a strong impression at international events,” said Jung Yeon-ah, director of the Image Tech Research Institute. “Just being talked about for her wardrobe at such global gatherings had its own diplomatic impact.”

Former first lady Kim Keon Hee visits Madrid, Spain, June 2022. / Yonhap

Former first lady Kim Keon Hee visits Madrid, Spain, June 2022. / Yonhap

Former first lady Kim Jung-sook also used traditional fashion to make a statement. During her 2017 state visit to the White House with then-President Moon Jae-in, she wore a hanbok made from fabric passed down from her mother, who had operated a fabric shop in Seoul’s Gwangjang Market for decades. Her hanbok featured a white jeogori, deep blue skirt and a jade green jangot.

Former first lady Kim Jung-sook wears a hanbok made from fabric inherited from her mother at a White House state dinner in 2017. Korea Times file

Former first lady Kim Jung-sook wears a hanbok made from fabric inherited from her mother at a White House state dinner in 2017. Korea Times file

After the event, Kim Jung-sook expressed hope that the hanbok would become more integrated into everyday life. A Cheong Wa Dae official at the time said her ensemble’s concept was “tradition meets fashion,” designed to project trust and hope through a restrained and refined appearance centered around the color blue.

This article from the Hankook Ilbo, the sister publication of The Korea Times, is translated by a generative AI system and edited by The Korea Times.