INTERVIEW LIE’s Lee Chung-chung redefines fashion by merging technology, couture

Lee Chung-chung, the visionary creative director of womenswear LIE — short for Life Is Expression — and scion of acclaimed Korean designer Lie Sang-bong, is a whirlwind of creativity. His imagination, unfettered by constraints, roams freely across the fields of technology, fashion and spatial design.

Earlier this month, at the 2025 Spring/Summer Seoul Fashion Week, Lee showcased his "Neo Craftsmanship" collection during the grand finale of Seoul's premier biannual fashion event. This innovative collection integrated LG Display's stretchable display technology with haute couture, featuring panels on the fronts of garments, sleeves and clutch bags that illuminated and shifted designs and colors dynamically on the runway. The technology also showcased its transformative capabilities by altering the appearance of the models' faces to different races.

"We have put in a tremendous amount of effort and thought into how to incorporate this technology into wearable fashion, not just as an add-on, but as an integral part of the design," he said during a recent interview with The Korea Times at a cafe in Dongdaemun Design Plaza in Seoul, introducing the result of over a year of collaborative efforts with researchers.

The Central Saint Martins graduate, who launched LIE in 2013, noted that the idea of "neo-craftsmanship" was in fact inpsired by those researchers.

"As I observed the researchers meticulously hand-wiring circuits and ensuring battery life while attaching these prototype stretchable panels to clothing, I was struck by the parallel between their work and the traditional craftsmanship that fashion designers pursue," he said.

In an era where fast fashion is popular and AI enables almost anyone to design, Lee believes that genuine craftsmanship has become more crucial than ever.

"By blending traditional, contemporary and futuristic craftsmanship, I wanted to showcase this fusion through a fashion show," he said.

The outcome hasn't aligned with his initial vision — he had hoped to create large garments using dozens of panels, but current technology limits panel size and presents challenges related to weight, power consumption, and stability. Despite these constraints, Lee is proud of his latest venture.

"I think my job is done if this fashion show inspired people to think how this technology can be used in different products, like cars, umbrellas and pens. Because I believe stimulating imagination is a crucial part of being a designer and it's what defines the LIE brand," he said.

The designer remains excited about the future, anticipating a day when this technology could be used in special clothing, such as firefighter suits or military uniforms, and even in an invisibility cloak that covers the entire body.

Legacy of creativity

Lee’s pursuit of creativity is inspired by his father, Lie, often referred to as the "Alexander McQueen of Korea." Lee fondly recalls the excitement of attending his father's show for the first time as a young boy, a moment that holds a special place in his heart.

"My father's fashion shows were nothing short of spectacular. He would push the boundaries of creativity with concepts like a leopard-print body-painted dancer competing on the runway, magicians performing feats of illusion and models adorned with giant birdcages," Lee said.

"I felt an electrifying energy at the fashion show, almost like a dopamine rush multiplied by a million. His shows are always a display of unbridled imagination. His bold and innovative designs have been a source of inspiration for me."

His pursuit of creativity eventually led him to launch his fashion label LIE about a decade ago. With the name LIE, the brand aims to empower women to express their unique personalities through fashion.

Lee's utmost attention is now focused on striking a balance between the artistic and business aspects of fashion.

"If you prioritize the commercial side over creativity, you might get a lot of orders in the short term, but it's hard to build a lasting brand. On the other hand, if you're too focused on art and creativity without considering the business side, the brand might not survive. I've seen this happen to many brands, and it's something I've always been mindful of," he said.

In this context, Lee is also working to boost local sales to maintain a balance between overseas and domestic markets. This has become even more crucial following the COVID pandemic, which led to a significant number of canceled overseas orders.

Burgeoning Korean fashion industry

"Fashion is all about history, in my opinion. Nothing in art or design just appears out of thin air. We need to learn from the past and carry on the legacy. That's why museums exist — to preserve history. It gives things a sense of continuity. Korea is lacking in this regard," he said.

"The reason why Japan has become a fashion powerhouse is because of brands like Comme des Garçons, Kenzo and Issey Miyake that have deep roots and have been able to sustain themselves. These brands have a strong domestic market and can survive without relying heavily on overseas expansion. However, in Korea, it's difficult to find domestic designer brands even in department stores," he added, highlighting the need for the government to foster the growth of well-performing domestic brands.

Nonetheless, the designer, who has never imagined his life without fashion, believes it is time to embrace his role as a Korean fashion designer. He is confident that Korea has the potential to become the top fashion hub in Asia with adequate government support.

"Like K-pop, Korean fashion is regarded as trendy, meaning taking existing trends, adding your own unique twist and quickly adapting to new styles. Designers are not creators in the sense of inventing something entirely new. They reimage, repackage and tailor these ideas to fit a specific brand and present them to consumers. I believe Korean designers are good at doing that," he said.

Alongside his father, the designer dreams of establishing both his brand LIE and his father's brand, LIE SANGBONG, as prestigious global brands.

"My goal is to establish LIE SANGBONG as a timeless, heritage brand and to position LIE as a trendy label for a younger market, much like Prada and Miu Miu. I want to create a fashion house with both classic and contemporary appeal," he said.