Are iWatches up to test of time?

Against Apple invasion, Zenith CEO relics on authenticity, history

By Rachel Lee

Since Apple released its new smartwatch, luxury watchmakers have been divided.

The alarmists are nervous about Apple’s invasion of their industry, worried that the new product could shake it to its foundations and force them to the sidelines.

Traditionalists, however, are confident that the iWatch lacks a certain “je ne sais quoi.” Jean-Claude Biver, who heads LVMH’s luxury watch division, said the missing element was the ability to withstand the test of time.

In a written interview, Zenith CEO Aldo Magada ― recently headhunted by LVMH from Breitling ― expressed similar sentiments, suggesting that the challenge from Apple was nothing out of the ordinary.

“Challenges the watch industry have to face are common to the whole industry,” he said. “These are monetary, economic and political and do not depend on us. We are therefore forced to expect stabilization and improvement. That is why our mission is to bring to the market the best timeless product with great value.”

He stressed what he described as the authenticity of his products, saying they had been proven time and time again and that Korean customers preferred classic, simple designs.

“We want to link the past and the future, to summarize the heritage, the know-how and technical skills of Zenith so as to project the company in a manner conveying its credibility and legitimacy,” he said.

He explained that the company continually drew on its 150-year heritage and seeks to merge the traditional with the avant-garde.

“Zenith collections combine its incredible and continuous history since 1865, and at the same time are contemporary and elegant,” he said.

Zenith’s strategy centers on the El Primero line, the CEO explained, because El Primero has helped make Zenith what it is today.

“Our roots are deep and solid enough to think about introducing a new contemporary image,” he said. “I will reinforce the El Primero as the core collection and structure the other collections; however, no segment will be neglected.”

He added that Zenith was a brand for young people who like luxury items that have an informal style.

“The El Primero collection will be strengthened because it is an iconic collection with an iconic brand name,” he said. “The other collections will be structured in order to provide a clear overview of what Zenith has to offer.”

He mentioned the need to simplify the company’s product lines in order to convey the brand’s values more clearly.

“Zenith has over 600 movement variations, all produced from start to finish by [the factory] in Le Locle,” he said. “Zenith manufactures everything in-house, from the patents of new mechanisms to the complete watch assembly (including the production of components, which is very rare in this industry).

“Indeed, the development of the exceptional gravity control module you can find in our Academy Christoph Colomb watches required a full five years of research, while producing it called for the creation of 60 new tools dedicated to assembling the sphere and its 175 components ― a technical feat and a world premiere that would have been impossible without the expertise of a fully integrated [factory].”

Magada described Korea as “a growing market for most luxury products,” but said that the market was maturing and customers are demanding more, seeking items with “authenticity, craftsmanship and emotion” when making purchasing decisions.

“At Zenith, we think that classic watches will never go out of fashion, but could meet the latest fashion trends,” he said.

When asked about the company’s plans for the Korean market, the CEO was enthusiastic.

“The Korean market is strategic because it is widely considered as an influencer for luxury goods and lifestyle experiences across Asia, we will therefore keep strengthening our presence by presenting more targeted products and services.”