Through algorithmic lens: Retracing dawn of modern Korea in Seoul

Coffee Hanyakbang, which sits on the site of Hyeominseo, a Joseon-era medical center where the legendary physician Heo Jun (1539-1615) once treated commoners, is seen in Jung District, Seoul, Aug. 3. Korea Times photo by Choi Won-suk

Artificial intelligence (AI)-assisted travel often has a goal of finding cheaper flight tickets and affordable accommodation options.

Recently, however, an acquaintance of mine living in Seattle reached out asking for advice on planning her upcoming trip to Korea. She confessed to relying heavily on generative AI.

Seeking an immersive “time-travel” itinerary that would take her to important historical sites related to late 19th and early 20th century events, she asked Google Gemini to craft a tight one-day historical tour through Seoul that would cost around 200,000 won ($150) to complete.

Before leaving an overseas visitor to navigate the capital based on the whims of an algorithm, The Korea Times set out to field-test the AI-recommended itinerary. Can AI make an itinerary that can capture the spirit and nuance of local history, or does it merely stitch together facts without understanding the real situation?

While the model displayed impressive spatial efficiency and a strong grasp of overarching narratives, it faltered when confronted with the shifting tides of street-level trends and deeper and more intricate parts of history.

Strolling through Deoksu Palace, visitors suddenly come face-to-face with a grand neo-Palladian building that feels worlds away from East Asian royal architecture. This is Seokjojeon, the very first Western-style structure in Korea. Korea Times photo by Wang Tae-seog

Morning at Deoksu Palace

Was the AI recommendation reliable?: Yes

The AI offered an excellent recommendation for the starting point. Our journey began inside Deoksu Palace, where the morning sun beat down relentlessly on the stone courtyards. Standing next to traditional timber-framed pavilions, the neoclassical facade of Seokjojeon instantly drew the eye. Its pale stone columns gleamed in the heat, visually embodying late-19th-century Korea’s rapid push toward modernization.

Gemini correctly framed Seokjojeon not merely as an architectural curiosity, but as a monument to Emperor Gojong’s desperate ambition to assert the Korean Empire’s sovereignty through Westernization. Its presence in the modern landscape of the palace is a symbol of the tragic loss of independence that soon followed under Japanese colonial rule.

The royal family's dining room is seen at Daehan Empire History Museum inside Deoksu Palace in Jung District, Seoul, Aug 4. Korea Times photo by Park Jin-hai

With an advance reservation, visitors can take free guided tours of the former imperial residence. Inside, the grand halls are filled with authentic period furnishings, some meticulously restored and many formerly used by Emperor Gojong's family. The pieces, many of them European in fashion, fill out formal reception rooms, private bedrooms and even early modern restrooms, calling to mind other spaces like Buckingham Palace.

Learning about the daily life of Emperor Gojong and the other last members of the royal family transforms how people view life within the stone walls of the palace. With dedicated English-language tours available for international visitors, reserving a spot in advance to explore the interior is an absolute must.

"Dwaeji gukbap," pork rice soup, is served at Gwanghwamun Gukbap in Jung District, Seoul, Aug. 3. Korea Times photo by Choi Won-suk

Lunch at Gwanghwamun Gukbap

Was the AI's recommendation reliable?: Not quite

Moving toward Gwanghwamun for lunch, the AI directed us to a spot famous for "dwaeji gukbap" (pork rice soup), pitching it as a taste of early-20th-century street dining.

Selected for the Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand, Gwanghwamun Gukbap is popular — fail to arrive promptly and you might find yourself stuck in a line, waiting to get in. Opening its doors at 11 a.m., the restaurant's word-of-mouth reputation for culinary excellence brings a stream of diners eager to savor steaming bowls of soup, even in the dead of summer.

While the clean, savory broth and tender pork belly made a very satisfying meal for only 12,000 won ($8.50), the historical reasoning provided by the AI was pure fiction. Dwaeji-gukbap was not a staple meal in Seoul at the turn of the century — the dish gained widespread popularity decades later, brought by refugees during the 1950-53 Korean War.

As Seoul natives know, a century ago, hungry locals would have been more likely to frequent "seolleongtang" (ox bone soup) restaurants, such as the city's oldest restaurant, Inmun Seolnongtang, which was established in 1904, when Gojong was still ruling the Korean Empire.

A visitor wears a Paichai Hakdang school uniform in a reconstruction of a schoolroom at Appenzeller Noble Memorial Museum in Jung District, Seoul, Aug. 4. Korea Times photo by Park Jin-hai

Afternoon stroll down Jeongdong-gil

Was the AI's recommendation reliable? No

Next, the algorithm suggested renting a retro outfit and strolling down Jeongdong-gil, a street lined with late 19th- and early 20th-century red-brick buildings that embody Korea’s early modern history. AI even recommended a couple of boutiques around Jeong-dong and Ikseon-dong, where outfits could be rented for three hours for about 30,000 won.

However, after tromping to five separate addresses provided by AI, it turns out that almost every specialized costume rental shop near the palace had been shuttered. Even major platforms like Google and Naver failed to keep pace; unless a place is wildly popular, online business listings are rarely kept up-to-date. Though multiple search engines still marked the shops as "open," arriving on-site meant finding shuttered doors, empty spaces or entirely different businesses in their place, making for a frustratingly futile trek in the sweltering summer heat.

While hanbok rental shops continue to flourish, the trend of wearing early-1900s lace dresses and checked suits waned significantly in the post-pandemic era. It was a stark lesson in AI’s limits: large language models easily mistake past social media buzz for current storefront realities.

A diorama showing Paichai Hakdang's founder Henry Appenzeller and his students at his home is seen at Appenzeller Noble Memorial Museum in Jung District, Seoul, Aug. 4. Korea Times photo by Park Jin-hai

Appenzeller Noble Memorial Museum

Was the AI's recommendation reliable? Yes

Continuing along Jeongdong-gil, the path led us to Appenzeller Noble Memorial Museum, nestled within the former East Hall of Paichai Hakdang. Established in 1885 by American missionary Henry Gerhart Appenzeller as Korea’s very first modern private school, the restored structure stands today as a tranquil sanctuary from the urban rush.

Though modest in scale, its classic red-brick facade harmonizes seamlessly with the architectural tapestry of the neighborhood.

In late 19th-century Korea, this institution was far more than just a place of learning — it served as a vital focal point for public enlightenment. Within these grounds, students operated the pioneering Sammun Publishing House and printed the Dongnip Shinmun (The Independent), Korea’s first private, independent newspaper. The school also nurtured key historical figures who shaped the modern nation, including Korea’s first president, Syngman Rhee, and prominent independence activist Seo Jae-pil.

Inside its quiet halls, time seems to pause. Visitors can peer into a meticulously reconstructed 19th-century classroom, look at Appenzeller’s handwritten diaries and admire one of the earliest grand pianos ever brought into the country. The museum is a quiet, beautiful reminder of how a single historic spot helped forge modern education and free expression in Korea.

Traditional herbal medicine packages hang from the ceiling inside Coffee Hanyakbang in Jung District, Seoul, Aug. 3. The retro-style cafe sits on the site of a Joseon-era medical institution where physician Heo Jun (1539-1615) treated common citizens. Korea Times photo by Choi Won-suk

Afternoon coffee at centuries-old medical clinic

Was the AI's recommendation reliable? Not entirely

Taking a short subway ride over to Euljiro, the next recommendation was to hunt down Coffee Hanyakbang. The cafe is hidden inside an alleyway so narrow that two pedestrians would have to turn sideways to pass each other. Inside, dark polished wood, lacquered mother-of-pearl cabinets and ambient jazz offer sanctuary from downtown's bustle.

This was perhaps the AI’s most enjoyable and interesting recommendation. Gemini pointed out that this atmospheric coffee house sits on the former site of Hyeminseo, the Joseon-era medical institution where legendary physician Heo Jun (1539-1615) once treated common citizens. There is something special about the idea of relaxing and enjoying hand-drip specialty coffee and fresh pastries in a place where herbal remedies were once boiled for the public.

Shary Werb, left, an American librarian, and her husband Bret Werb enjoy their coffee at Coffee Hanyakbang in Jung District, Seoul, Aug. 3. Korea Times photo by Choi Won-suk

Reality quickly exposed the hallucinated seams in the machine's historical reasoning. While the cafe does occupy the historic grounds of Hyeminseo, the state medical institution was abolished in 1882, before modern medical facilities took root in the capital. The space itself does not preserve late-19th-century history at all; rather, it cleverly reinterprets mid-to-late 20th-century alleyway architecture with a modern "new retro" aesthetic.

A cafe manager brews hand-drip coffee at Coffee Hanyakbang in Jung District, Seoul, Aug. 3. Korea Times photo by Choi Won-suk

Travelers seeking the authentic story of early modern medicine and Westernization in Korea should head to the former site of Chejungwon, Korea's first Western-style medical institution established in Seoul in 1885 during Gojong's reign.

Still, standing in the dim, atmospheric alleyways of Euljiro, it was hard to hold a grudge. Despite the misstep, Coffee Hanyakbang remains a compelling gem of a cafe. Featuring a unique and inviting interior and immaculate filter coffee, it offers international visitors an immersive taste of the charms of Seoul's old alleyways, functioning as a place where the past isn't strictly preserved but delightfully reimagined.

Coffee Hanyakbang's signature drinks include a unique reinterpretation of "sujeonggwa," a traditional Korean cinnamon, ginger and persimmon punch, and pairs well with the peach tart at the cafe in Jung District, Seoul, Aug. 3. Korea Times photo by Choi Won-suk

Shary Werb, a librarian from the U.S. who visited the cafe with her husband, said she learned about it when the spot was featured in the top 20 locations on Atlas Obscura, a U.S. travel website. Although she didn't realize the cafe starts service at 10 am, she said the experience was well worth the wait for the doors to open. "It looked really cool with the medical history and the unique way they made coffee," she said.

Her husband, Bret Werb, noted that despite the heat, he found the space lively and vibrant, adding that he particularly enjoyed the music playing inside.

Tourists examine prison cells where Korean independence activists were held at Seodaemun Prison History Hall in Seodaemun District, Seoul, Aug. 11. Korea Times photo by Choi Won-suk

Final stop at Seodaemun Prison

Was the AI's recommendation reliable? So-so

The AI itinerary's final suggestion brought us to Seodaemun Prison, where many independence activists were detained and tortured during the 1910-45 Japanese occupation.

While Seodaemun Prison remains an essential historical landmark documenting the sacrifices of Korea's independence activists, field-testing the AI's recommendations on-site revealed significant gaps that potentially affect how visitors might experience the complex.

The underground interrogation rooms leave a lasting impression on visitors through their raw depiction of colonial-era atrocities. However, the combination of dim lighting, haunting sound effects and realistic mannequins representing people undergoing torture can be overwhelming for young travelers. Families with children are advised to exercise caution.

Inmate record cards are mounted on the wall inside the exhibition hall at Seodaemun Prison History Hall in Seodaemun District, Seoul, Aug. 11. Korea Times photo by Choi Won-suk

While Korean-language plaques offer rich historical background information and build emotional depth for the exhibits, the English translations are heavily condensed and often convey only basic facts like dates and locations. A prime example of this disparity lies in the display of handwritten letters by independence activists. While Korean signage details the writers' sacrifices and explores their tragic fate, the English sign simply reads "Letter." Stripped of its narrative context, a deeply moving historical document is flattened into a simple everyday item.

Although the museum offers a smartphone-based audio guide, it provides minimal added information. The audio tracks often merely repeat the already concise English text on the walls or deliver fragmented commentary. The audio guides fail to supply nuanced information that would add emotional weight and help visitors understand the site's historical gravity.

A scale model of the prison complex is on display at Seodaemun Prison History Hall in Seodaemun District, Seoul, Aug. 11. Korea Times photo by Choi Won-suk

Verdict: Efficient blueprint, but human touch required

Testing the AI-generated itinerary proved to be an illuminating experiment.

The AI proved effective at planning the trip in spatial terms, threading major heritage sites together to explore the desired historical period.

Where the algorithm faltered was in understanding actual on-the-ground conditions and providing in-depth, nuanced information. While language gaps at sites like Seodaemun Prison reflect an on-site informational shortfall rather than a flaw in the itinerary, it also didn't add nuance to the experience. Other pitfalls such as shuttered costume shops and fake food histories highlight the AI's inability to provide up-to-date, reliable and accurate information.

Generative AI offers an exceptionally strong, cost-effective blueprint for exploring a city’s past. However, to bridge information gaps on the ground and fully unlock the real depth of a living culture, there is still no substitute for local knowledge and human guidance.