Meet Korea’s pioneering ‘instant noodle critic’

Food critic Ji Young-jun holds "Shin Ramyun" and "Buldak Ramen," two of the most beloved Korean instant noodles in the global noodle market. Courtesy of Ji Young-jun

For many, instant noodles are a quick, cheap meal designed for convenience. But for Ji Young-jun, Korea's pioneering "ramyeon critic," they represent a lifetime of history, complex food science and a rapidly growing cultural phenomenon.

Ji’s unconventional journey into the world of noodles began during a period of personal frustration. After enduring consecutive failures on Korea's grueling college entrance exam, he enlisted in the military. It was while wandering the aisles of the military commissary (PX) that he found an unexpected spark of inspiration.

"Before finishing my service, I set a humble goal for myself: 'Let’s taste every single instant noodle available here,'" Ji recalls during an interview with The Korea Times, Monday. "Astonishingly, that simple objective completely revitalized my military life and filled it with excitement. I wanted to carry this amazing energy into the civilian world, so in 2013, I began sharing my detailed reviews on social media."

For a decade, Ji balanced his passion for instant noodles with a stable career as a primary school teacher. However, as global interest in Korean culture surged — driven in part by K-pop and a craze for Buldak Ramen — Ji noticed a glaring void.

While American reviewer Hans Lienesch had achieved global fame as "The Ramen Rater," Korea lacked an independent, professional critic dedicated to the craft.

"When I saw Hans Lienesch tasting and introducing noodles, I felt a deep sense of regret," Ji explains. "Koreans love instant noodles, and the taste and quality of our noodles are the absolute best in the world, yet there was no one in Korea professionally dedicated to introducing them. I thought, 'If there isn't a Hans Lienesch in Korea, I want to step up and be that person.'"

Ji Young-jun's book "The Chronicles of 'Ramyeon' — A History of Korean Instant Noodles" was translated into Japanese, left, and Russian, right, and published in both countries. Courtesy of Ji Young-jun

Driven by this ambition, Ji made the bold decision to resign from his teaching job. Since then, he has reviewed over 2,300 varieties of domestic and international noodles, cementing his status as an independent authority. His research culminated in the 2024 publication of "The Chronicles of 'Ramyeon' — A History of Korean Instant Noodles," which has since been translated and published in Japan and Russia. To dispel widespread health misconceptions, he followed it up this year with "Ramyeon with Science and Common Sense."

Instant noodles as global phenomenon

Ji notes that while instant noodles were invented in 1958 by Japanese businessman Momofuku Ando to alleviate post-war food scarcity, the food evolved differently when Samyang Foods introduced it to Korea five years later.

Spice-loving Koreans actively pushed the boundaries of heat. This culinary preference laid the groundwork for legendary, best-selling products like Nongshim’s Shin Ramyun (1986) and Samyang’s Buldak Ramen (2012).

"I attribute the massive success of Korean instant noodles to two main factors: the incredible balance of taste and quality, and the way it harmoniously integrates spicy flavors," Ji said. "Global consumers began calling these hearty, spicy noodles 'ramyeon' specifically to differentiate them from other varieties."

A "Korean ramyeon" lineup released by Indonesia's Indomie, the world’s third-largest noodle manufacturer / Courtesy of Ji Young-jun

Today, the global market is deeply influenced by Korean brands. Indonesia's Indomie — the world’s third-largest noodle manufacturer — even hired the Korean girl group NewJeans to promote their new "Korean ramyeon" lineup. Astonishingly, even North Korea has cloned Shin Ramyun and Buldak to export to China under local names like "Spicy Kimchi Mixed Noodles."

Defending value of ramyeon

Ji’s extensive research has also made him a fierce defender of the noodle’s nutritional value. He argues that modern health campaigns have unfairly vilified the food.

"Korean instant noodles were originally introduced to fight hunger, and in the late 1960s, it was even marketed as a 'nutritional food,'" Ji noted. "In an era of scarcity, it was a vital source of nutrients. Its modern reputation as an unhealthy food is not because ramyeon itself is toxic, but because it became a scapegoat for modern lifestyle diseases born from too many calories and lack of exercise."

North Korea has cloned Shin Ramyun and Buldak to export to China. Courtesy of Ji Young-jun

He continued, "I’m not claiming it’s a health food, but its socioeconomic value as a meal you can have for less than a dollar is immense. Countless professionals in the Korean noodle industry are working tirelessly at this very moment to develop high-quality, delicious products at low prices. I hope global consumers recognize the massive role it has played in stabilizing food security and living costs worldwide."

Next big thing after 'Buldak'

For international consumers looking for the next big thing after Buldak, Ji recommended Korea's new fusion pasta and spaghetti lines. Innovations like Samyang’s Tangle pasta series, Nongshim’s Shin Ramyun Toomba and rose flavors, and Paldo's ARIH Modern Noodle series (developed in collaboration with BTS) showcase the industry's versatility.

"To appeal to international consumers, the Korean instant noodle industry is taking on familiar western favorites like pasta and spaghetti. The resulting products are surprisingly delicious and boast remarkably high quality," he said.

Looking ahead, Ji is focused on turning a simple comfort food into a lasting cultural legacy. He envisions building an official museum and hopes to establish a dedicated department at a university to give the industry a proper academic foundation.

His goal is to ensure that instant noodles are recognized not just as a quick meal, but as a significant piece of modern culture. "Even ten or twenty years from now, I want to be actively working to share the true value and charm of noodles with the world," Ji said.