In South Jeolla, a destination for tasting Korean-grown coffee beans

A coffee flower blooms at Gotem Gil Coffee Farm / Korea Times photo by Lee Han-ho

The signature coffee at Naro Coffee 220, Nokdong branch, in Goheung, South Jeolla Province / Korea Times photo by Lee Han-ho

Ethiopia, Kenya, Peru and El Salvador all have one thing in common: They are coffee-growing regions. There is another place that belongs on that list as well — Goheung.

One of only a handful of places in Korea where coffee beans are grown, Goheung County in South Jeolla Province is a rare domestic coffee-producing region. Koreans are known for their exceptional love of coffee, sometimes even surpassing people in countries famous for their coffee culture. Yet few Koreans have ever seen coffee cherries hanging from trees or coffee blossoms in bloom, largely because most coffee-growing regions are far from typical Korean travel destinations.

But in Goheung, Koreans can experience all of this without boarding a flight. Visitors can hold fresh coffee cherries in their hands and take in the fragrance of coffee flowers simply by traveling there. Coffee farms in Goheung not only cultivate coffee trees, but also study different microbial strains and experiment with fermentation methods. That is why coffee is something no traveler to Goheung should miss.

Kim Yui-ju, owner of Gotem Gil Coffee Farm, tends to the crops. Korea Times photo by Lee Han-ho

Coffee berries at Gotem Gil Coffee Farm / Korea Times photo by Lee Han-ho

Among the many coffee farms in Goheung, Gotem Gil Coffee Farm is one of the largest, with more than 1,000 coffee trees. Its main variety is Crystal Mountain, known for its balanced flavor profile combining the sweetness of dried fruit, a hint of chocolatey bitterness and a light tartness that appeals to a wide range of coffee drinkers.

The site operates as both a farm and a cafe. With a cup of coffee in hand, visitors can step through the back door and explore the farm for themselves.

Inside the greenhouse, visitors who catch a whiff of the early blossoms are struck by a fragrance so intense that it is hard to believe it comes from a single flower. Kim Yui-ju, the 61-year-old owner of the farm, says late April is when coffee flowers reach their peak bloom and fill the greenhouse with their heady fragrance, making that month and May the ideal time to visit the farm and sink into the languid atmosphere created by the blossoms.

Differences in the trees’ growth rates allow some flowers to continue blooming even until early June, when harvest begins, Kim added.

On side note, the farm also grows papayas and sells papaya smoothies. What began with a few seeds acquired by chance turned out to be perfectly suited to the farm’s environment, and papayas are now grown alongside the coffee trees. As a result, the farm’s smoothies offer a creamy, fresh flavor that is hard to find in processed drinks made with imported papayas. For visitors, it is a must-try experience.

Naro Coffee 220’s Nokdong branch, in Goheung, South Jeolla Province, offers a clear view of Nokdong Port through its windows. Korea Times photo by Lee Han-ho

Lee Un-jae, owner of Naro Coffee, prepares drinks at Naro Coffee 220’s Nokdong branch, Goheung, South Jeolla Province. Korea Times photo by Lee Han-ho

Another standout is Naro Coffee. Known for producing bright, complex coffees that stand apart from many celebrated specialty coffees from well-known farms, it operates its farm and cafe in separate locations. The beans are grown at a farm called Naro Coffee Island on Naro Island, while the cafe, Naro Coffee 220, is located at Goheung’s Nokdong Port, where it sells coffee and other bean-based products.

Naro Coffee’s signature specialty is anaerobic fermentation. The process significantly enhances flavor and aroma, while making it possible to create dozens of distinct taste variations from a single bean variety. To achieve this, Naro Coffee has developed its own proprietary fermentation strains, producing coffees that are truly one of a kind.

The farm has even designed its own fermentation machine. Although it mainly grows Kenya SL28, its unique fermentation methods have allowed it to create six distinct coffees from this single variety.

Its signature coffee, Naro, is distinguished by its radiant floral aroma, fruity notes of berries and stone fruits, and a bright, clearly defined acidity — hallmarks of an exceptional coffee and the qualities many look for in a truly good cup.

“Geisha varieties are known for their bright flavors, but Naro contains more compounds that bring out fruity and floral aromas,” said Lee Un-jae, 64, the owner of Naro Coffee. He added that the farm works with university laboratories to conduct scientific analysis and support further development.

For customers who are less accustomed to tart flavors, the cafe also offers an alternative coffee fermented to bring out treacle-like sweetness. Unlike other low-acidity coffees, which often carry a heavy roasted or burnt note, this version delivers a strong, clear sweetness and an overall delicate balance — the kind of coffee one might never expect to find in a small rural port in South Jeolla Province.

This article from the Hankook Ilbo, the sister publication of The Korea Times, is translated by a generative AI system and edited by The Korea Times.