From tangerines to olives: How climate change is reshaping Jeju agriculture

Varieties of olives are on display at an olive event organized by Jeju Olive Society on Jeju Island in September 2024. Courtesy of Lee In-sook

SEOGWIPO, Jeju Island — Beneath the iconic slopes of Mount Halla, Jeju’s orchards are starting to look a little different. Tangerines still dominate the island’s fields, but now olive trees, with their silver-green leaves and Mediterranean flair, are taking root, reshaping the island’s agricultural identity as it gets warmer and drier.

In the beginning of September, clusters of light green olives — some already darkening — dangled from trees that swayed gently in the wind, ahead of their harvest.

Seom Olive, an olive farm run by Kim Gil-young, focuses on breeding and preserving olives. Kim, one of Korea’s olive pioneers, sees potential for wider cultivation.

“Jeju’s climate is definitely changing, and it’s becoming favorable for olive trees,” he told The Korea Times.

According to Kim, the island’s May and June — a critical period for pollination of olive trees — are getting drier in recent years.

“The fact that it’s dry when pollination takes place is an advantage for olive trees,” he said. He explained that unlike other plants, olive trees rely only on wind for pollination, making Jeju’s famously windy conditions especially favorable for their cultivation.

This year, Jeju experienced some of its hottest weather on record, with unprecedented high temperatures and an increase in tropical nights. Asked about the impact of tropical nights on the trees, Kim said that while extreme heat is harmful, it does not outweigh the benefits of dry spring weather during pollination.

Olive farmers Kim Gil-young, left, receives a plaque from Jung Yee-yeol appointing him as chairman of Jeju Olive Society on Jeju Island, in March this year. Courtesy of Lee In-sook

Small yet growing movement

When Kim moved to Seogwipo 16 years ago to grow olive trees, he was the only one in Korea to grow the crop. At the time, the idea of olives thriving on Korean soil — especially on an island known for its tangerines — seemed like a long shot.

Around the same time, Jung Yee-yeol also started an olive farm, Jeju Olive Grove 210, on the opposite side of the island. The two met in 2010 through Kim's acquaintance and became pioneers of Korea’s olive industry.

Jung's farm stretching across 23,000 square meters of land currently stands as the island’s largest olive farm. The varieties here are optimized for oil production, which means the olives themselves remain relatively small.

Near the grove’s entrance, a glass building houses the equipment that presses the olives into oil, though only in limited quantities for now.

Three years ago, they established the Jeju Olive Society to share information and raise awareness about olives.

“Now, I would say we have about 25 olive farms on the island,” Kim said. “In recent years, the number of farmers has grown a lot. I’ve seen many young farmers reaching out to me for information.”

Kim believes that growing interest in olives is partly driven by the challenges facing Jeju’s signature crop and the backbone of the local economy: tangerines.

“Last year, many farmers saw tangerines split open due to the intense summer heat, which badly affected production. Those who experienced that seemed to consider new opportunities and see potential in olives,” he said.

Olives dangle from an olive tree on Jeju Island. Courtesy of Lee In-sook

Shifting olive zones

The olive, a subtropical tree, is mainly cultivated in the Mediterranean basin, North Africa and southern Europe, as well as in Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and parts of the Americas where temperatures are mild and summers are hot and dry.

While Jeju still receives much more rain compared to traditional habitats, its shifting climate now produces a clear divide between wet and dry seasons, creating suitable conditions for olive cultivation.

Globally, extreme weather is redrawing the map of olive production. In Europe, extreme heat has forced some of the world’s biggest producers to endure reduced harvests or even close down their farms, while other regions — including Korea — are emerging as potential new habitats.

The olive farms on Jeju are a clear indication that climate change is affecting what people eat and how they supply their ingredients.

In fact, researchers at the Rural Development Administration (RDA) have been studying olives for years as a potential new crop for the island. Last year, the RDA released a list of 17 subtropical crops — including olives, okra, papayas and water spinach — that can be successfully grown in Korea.

Bottles of olive oil produced at Jeju Olive Grove 210 / Courtesy of Lee In-sook

'Made in Korea' olive oil?

Although the future looks bright, commercial-scale olive oil production in Korea is still years away. Both Kim and Jung believe that “Made in Korea” olive oil will eventually reach the market, but for now, the output remains modest.

Last year, Jung produced only 100 small bottles of olive oil — far too little to commercialize. As of now, he uses it personally and shares with family and friends.

Despite its limited production, Jeju Olive Grove 210’s extra virgin olive oil is already getting recognized for its quality and taste.

"The flavor and smoothness was outstanding," Jung said. “It's incomparable to mass-market olive oils imported in bulk and repackaged for sale. Even compared to premium oils shipped shortly after harvest, this one holds its own.”

The farm’s 2024 batch — labeled "Spirit of the Sun" — won a Bronze quality award at the inaugural Korea International Olive Oil Competition in May.

However, for olive oil production to become commercially viable, farms need larger tracts of land and more mature olive trees. Olive trees take four to five years before they begin producing fruit and about 25 years to reach peak production.

“Selling [olive oil] also means a lot of paperwork and regulatory requirements, which is too much for me with such small production,” Jung said.

Given the health benefits of olives, Kim is positive that olive cultivation will thrive on Jeju in the future. Olives — a staple of the healthy Mediterranean diet — are known to have healthy fats, plenty of antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties that prevent cancers, heart diseases and many other ailments.

“I see the potential for olives on Jeju,” Kim said.