Fatty pork belly uproar and ferry exit deepen Ulleung Island's summer woes

A view of Dodong Port in Ulleung-eup, Ulleung County, North Gyeongsang Province, where ferries connect the island to the mainland / Korea Times file

Ulleung Island, one of South Korea’s most remote destinations, is facing an unprecedented tourism crisis as visitor numbers drop, a major ferry operator prepares to exit and public criticism over local service intensifies during what should be peak travel season.

The turmoil comes amid growing backlash after a well-known YouTuber complained about ordering pork belly from a restaurant on the island and receiving a cut with excessive fat, a seemingly minor issue that spread online and ignited wider scrutiny over high prices and poor customer service in the region.

According to Ulleung County officials on Wednesday, HFerry, which operates the 15,000-ton Sunflower Cruise ferry between Uljin’s Hupo Port and Ulleung Island, has submitted a request to return its route license by the end of August.

The company cited unsustainable losses due to falling passenger demand since launching the route in September 2022.

While the ferry initially operated at over two-thirds capacity, it now struggles to fill even half of its 628 seats. Over the past three years, accumulated losses have reportedly exceeded 20.8 billion won (about $15 million).

Tourist numbers show a sharp decline. Visitor arrivals to Ulleung Island peaked in 2022 at 461,375, boosted by a pandemic-driven shift toward domestic travel.

But numbers fell to 408,204 in 2023 and further declined to 380,522 last year. As of June this year, 169,142 tourists had visited, down 14.2 percent from the same period last year.

A similar decline has been observed in visits to nearby Dokdo, the easternmost islets of Korea accessible via Ulleung. Dokdo tourist numbers fell from 280,312 in 2022 to just over 205,000 last year.

High costs, limited services blamed

Industry observers attribute the decline to a combination of high prices, limited infrastructure and low service standards. Ulleung Island is one of the farthest offshore destinations in Korea, located 159 kilometers from the mainland.

Logistics costs are high, and everything from construction materials to fuel must be shipped in. Construction costs are reportedly three times higher than on the mainland, and land near port areas can cost up to 50 million won per 3.3 square meters.

The island only has about 9,000 residents, and essential services are limited. There are only three gas stations, and fuel typically costs 300 to 400 won more per liter than on the mainland.

Tourists often face high lodging and meal costs, with round-trip ferry tickets alone costing between 120,000 and 160,000 won per person. For visitors from the capital region, reaching Ulleung requires first traveling to ports in Pohang or Uljin, adding further inconvenience.

“It’s not just that food and accommodation are expensive — getting here costs as much as going overseas,” said Kim, 53, who runs a travel agency on the island. “We don’t face the same competition as the mainland, and it shows. The pork belly controversy is just one example of how local service still falls short.”

In response to the growing criticism, Ulleung County Mayor Nam Han-kwon issued a statement on the county’s website acknowledging the need for change.

“High prices and staffing shortages caused by geographical limitations cannot be used as excuses for unreasonable pricing or unfriendly service,” Nam wrote. “We are committed to creating a better tourism environment through real, tangible changes, not just words, so that every visitor leaves Ulleung Island with fond memories and a desire to return.”

This article from the Hankook Ilbo, the sister publication of The Korea Times, is translated by a generative AI and edited by The Korea Times.