Where to try different types of naengmyeon, from Pyongyang to Busan styles

Nothing says Korean summer quite like a bowl of naengmyeon — cold noodles served in icy broth or fiery sauce. Once a winter dish from the North, it has become a warm-weather favorite with regional variations. From subtle broths to sweat-inducing sauce, naengmyeon comes in diverse styles. The Korea Times rounds up some of the best places to try them across the country.

A bowl of Pyongyang naengmyeon at Seoul's Eulji Myeonok / Korea Times photo by Jeong Da-bin

1. Taste of North Korea

In Seoul, you’ll find some of the best-known renditions of naengmyeon rooted in the North. The subtle, broth-based Pyongyang naengmyeon and the spicy, chewy Hamhung-style versions both came south with refugees during and after the Korean War. Longstanding institutions like Eulji Myeonok and Ojang-dong Heungnamjip continue to serve these classic styles with loyalty to their origins.

Eulji Myeonok

■ Address: 12 Samil-daero 30-gil, Jongno District, Seoul

■ Phone: 02-2266-7052

■ Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday to Saturday

It’s not every day that the closure of a restaurant makes headlines.

But that was exactly the case with Eulji Myeonok back in 2022. A time-honored eatery beloved for its classic Pyongyang naengmyeon, the restaurant was forced to vacate its home of 37 years in Seoul’s Euljiro due to redevelopment.

When it made its comeback in 2024, reopening in a sleek five-story building in Jongno District with its original, timeworn signboard mounted outside, loyal fans and curious newcomers alike lined up to welcome its return.

Founded in 1985, Eulji Myeonok is regarded as one of Seoul’s iconic destinations for Pyongyang naengmyeon, often mentioned in the same breath as Pildong Myeonok, Woo Lae Oak and Pyeongyang Myeonok.

Eulji Myeonok in Seoul's Jongno District / Korea Times photo by Jeong Da-bin

The recipe for its signature cold buckwheat noodles has remained unchanged for the last four decades. The clear, chilled broth, made by simmering beef and pork, is delicately seasoned. Just before serving, the dish is topped with a boiled egg, sliced beef garnish, thinly chopped scallions and a light sprinkle of red pepper flakes.

Mild and understated at first sip, the broth carries a subtle flavor that may catch first-time visitors off guard — but it’s precisely that quiet depth that keeps people coming back for more.

Plates of boiled and sliced beef (suyuk) and pork (pyeonyuk) round out the meal nicely alongside a cold bowl of naengmyeon.

On hot summer days, the establishment is often packed to the brim, so be prepared for a wait. (Park Han-sol)

A bowl of hoe-bibim naengmyeon at Seoul's Ojang-dong Heungnamjip / Courtesy of Ojang-dong Heungnamjip

Ojang-dong Heungnamjip

■ Address: 114 Mareunnae-ro, Jung District, Seoul

■ Phone: 02-2266-0735

■ Hours: 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., closed on Wednesday

■ Website: www.오장동흥남집.com

Ojang-dong Heungnamjip is a living memory of loss and culinary heritage.

Opened in 1953 by a couple who fled the North during the Korean War, the restaurant has stood in the same spot in Seoul’s Ojang-dong for four generations. Having made the neighborhood their second home, they channeled their longing for Hamhung in South Hamgyong Province into bowls of naengmyeon.

Unlike the milder Pyongyang naengmyeon, Hamhung-style cold noodles are made with chewy sweet potato starch noodles and pack a bolder punch — whether served savory or spicy.

At Ojang-dong Heungnamjip, the noodles are served in a red sauce infused with Korean chili pepper with various toppings depending on the dish.

Their signature hoe-bibim naengmyeon is crowned with marinated raw stingray, while gogi-bibim naengmyeon offers a beef-topped alternative. If you can’t decide between land and sea, there’s even an option to get both in seokkim (mixed) naengmyeon. For those seeking something milder, the restaurant also offers broth-based naengmyeon and onmyeon (warm noodles).

While it’s up to each diner to customize their bowl, the restaurant provides a few time-tested tips.

First, add a spoonful of white sugar. Then, drizzle some chamgireum (sesame oil). From there, you can dial up the tang with a dab of vinegar, mustard or house-made yangnyeomjang (seasoned sauce). (Park Han-sol)

Haeju Naengmyeon’s Bibim Naengmyeon / Korea Times photo by Baek Byung-yeul

2. Fiery options

While naengmyeon is often associated with an icy, refreshing broth, some eateries serve up a fiery twist on this beloved Korean dish. For those who crave bold flavor with their chilled noodles, bibim naengmyeon replaces the savory broth with a punchy gochujang-based sauce that intensifies with every bite. Among Seoul's spiciest offerings, Haeju Naengmyeon in Songpa District and Halmeoni Naengmyeon near Cheongnyangni Station stand out as must-visit destinations for spice lovers.

Haeju Naengmyeon

■ Address: 8-16 Baekjegobun-ro 7-gil, Jamsilbon-dong, Songpa District, Seoul

■ Phone: 02-424-7192

■ Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., Monday to Saturday

■ Website: @haejoo1983 on Instagram

If you like spicy food and cold noodles, you'll want to know about Haeju Naengmyeon in Seoul's southeastern Songpa District. It is famous for its extra-spicy naengmyeon, a dish many people think of when they want something with a fiery flavor.

This restaurant was established in 1983 by a couple from Haeju, a city in North Korea's South Hwanghae Province. Haeju Naengmyeon keeps its menu simple. The restaurant offers two main types: mul naengmyeon, featuring noodles in a mild, chilled beef bone broth, and its specialty bibim naengmyeon, a fiery version served without broth. Diners can also add simple sides like boiled eggs and bite-sized dumplings.

What makes Haeju Naengmyeon special isn't just the spicy noodles. They also give you thick radish kimchi, which is great for cooling down between spicy bites. You can also get as much warm beef broth as you want, which is also a nice touch and can help ease the burn.

The restaurant suggests adding a little bit of vinegar, mustard and sugar to the noodles for extra flavor. If the bibim naengmyeon is too spicy, guests can ask for some cold broth to mix in. Conversely, they're happy to add their special spicy sauce to the mul naengmyeon to give it a little extra kick.

When people mix the bibim naengmyeon, they might notice that the sauce isn't the most vibrant red and may assume it won't be particularly spicy. However, a single bite quickly reveals a formidable level of heat that warrants caution for sensitive palates.

For people who truly love very spicy food, this naengmyeon is a great choice. The amazing taste will bring you back again and again. That's the magic of this spicy naengmyeon. (Baek Byung-yeul)

Halmeoni Naengmyeon’s Maeun Naengmyeon (spicy cold noodle) / Korea Times photo by Baek Byung-yeul

Halmeoni Naengmyeon

■ Address: 53 Wangsan-ro 37-gil, Jegi-dong, Dongdaemun District, Seoul

■ Phone: 02-963-5362

■ Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily

If you're hunting for another top spot for spicy cold noodles in Seoul, Halmeoni Naengmyeon near Cheongnyangni Station in Dongdaemun District is a must-visit. Like Haeju Naengmyeon, this place is famous for its unique, tingling spicy sauce.

You'll find this well-known restaurant close to Gyeongdong Market and Cheongnyangni Station. Many spicy naengmyeon fans consider Halmeoni Naengmyeon, along with Haeju Naengmyeon, to be among Seoul's top choices.

Located on a street known for its naengmyeon restaurants within an old market, the restaurant gives off a cozy, old-school vibe even before you step inside. It is always full of customers of all ages, from young people to older guests.

As soon as you sit down, a staff member will take your order. The menu is straightforward — just maeun naengmyeon (spicy cold noodles) — so the only thing to consider ordering is extra noodles or an additional boiled egg.

Right after orders are placed, staff will bring a mug of icy cold broth. If the spice is too much, guests can pour this half-frozen broth into the noodles to make them less spicy. Just like at Haeju Naengmyeon, this restaurant provides mustard, vinegar and sugar.

Exterior of Halmeoni Naengmyeon in Seoul / Korea Times photo by Baek Byung-yeul

Unlike Haeju Naengmyeon, where the sauce doesn't look very red even after mixing, the noodles here turn a striking crimson as you mix them. People who are not good with spice can consider removing some of the sauce before mixing the noodles.

The first bite or two might not feel very spicy, but it builds as the meal goes on, but a sip or two of cold broth can bring relief.

Enjoying Halmeoni Naengmyeon is about experiencing the contrast between the cool broth and the intensely burning sauce. Its exciting flavors are truly a great way to relieve stress. (Baek Byung-yeul)

Busan milmyeon at Choryang Milmyeon in Busan / Korea Times file

3. Naengmyeon's cousin in Busan

Milmyeon is a cold noodle dish from Busan, featuring wheat and starch noodles served in a pork-based broth and topped with sliced suyuk (boiled pork). It was born out of necessity during the 1950-53 Korean War, when North Korean refugees in Busan improvised with wheat flour — a common relief supply — in place of buckwheat. Over time, this wartime substitute became a local specialty.

Known for its spicy, sweet and salty flavors, milmyeon comes in two main varieties, either served in an icy cold broth or topped with a spicy sauce.

While you can find some decent versions in Seoul, the dish’s true roots lie in Busan — so that’s where we’re headed next.

Choryang Milmyeon in Busan

■ Address: 225 Jungang-daero, Dong District, Busan

■ Phone: 051-462-1575

■ Hours: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.

■ Website: Instagram geotag of Choryang Milmyeon

Choryang Milmyeon, located near Busan Station, is considered synonymous with Busan-style milmyeon. The restaurant is always bustling with customers and a long wait is almost guaranteed.

Its signature features are the icy clean, refreshing broth which is made by simmering medicinal herbs like licorice and cinnamon together with beef bones to create a rich, flavorful stock. For the cold noodle soup, adding a bit of mustard and vinegar makes it even tastier. The spicy bibim milmyeon is topped with a sweet and tangy sauce and crushed peanuts, giving it a savory flavor.

Along with milmyeon, the king-sized dumplings are also a must-try menu item. The dumplings are large and generously filled, making for a satisfying meal.

The unique chewy noodles, rich broth and juicy dumplings are the secret to this restaurant’s popularity. Plus, with prices under 8,000 won ($6), it offers excellent value for its price. (Park Jin-hai)

Bibim milmyeon (spicy cold noodles) at Naeho Naengmyeon in Busan / Korea Times file

Naeho Naengmyeon in Busan

■ Address: 17 Uambeonyeong-ro 26-gil, Nam District, Busan

■ Phone: 051-646-6195

■ Hours: 10:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Naeho Naengmyeon, known as the birthplace of Busan milmyeon, is a milmyeon specialty restaurant with a 100-year tradition, passed down through four generations. Its roots trace back to Dongchun Myeonok, which started in 1919 in Hungnam, now part of Hamhung in North Korea's South Hamgyong Province.

After its owners sought refuge in Busan following the Korean War, this restaurant, which opened in its current spot within the market's alley in 1953 and has been operating for over 70 years, developed milmyeon and is recognized as Busan's first milmyeon establishment.

This eatery, featured in various food shows, uses broth made from beef bone and the toppings include spicy seasoned skate that has been aged for three to four days, sliced pork, egg, pear and cucumber. (Park Jin-hai)