InterviewFrom travel writer to 'deulgireum' artisan: Okhee Mill reinvents perilla oil for next generation

Moon Ji-yeon, the owner of Okhee Mill, holds perilla stalks outside her artisanal perilla roastery and cafe in Wonju, Gangwon Province, May 16. Korea Times photo by Shim Hyun-chul

WONJU, Gangwon Province — Long before it gained recognition as a health food, perilla oil held a place of quiet importance in Korean kitchens and farmlands. Known as "deulgireum" in Korean, the aromatic oil has deep roots in Korean culinary and agricultural history, dating back thousands of years.

Despite its longevity, perilla oil saw a decline in popularity in the late 20th century, as processed vegetable oils and imported fats became more common.

Moon Ji-yeon didn’t always see perilla oil as her calling.

A passionate traveler, she previously wrote for Lonely Planet Magazine Korea, but she lost her job when the COVID-19 pandemic hit.

Instead of following other career options, she chose to return to her hometown of Wonju, Gangwon Province, to carry on the family business of oil pressing.

"At first, I just wanted to help my mom — the work is physically demanding," Moon, owner of artisanal perilla roastery and cafe Okhee Mill, said in a recent interview with The Korea Times.

"Then I saw how much satisfaction my mom got from her work. Customers would bring their own perilla or sesame seeds and pay for the pressing service. And when they left, they said 'thank you' — that made her happy and dedicated."

Inspired, Moon began months of study to take over her mother's business and became fascinated by perilla seeds and oil. She named the roastery-cafe in honor of her mother, Ok-hee, preserving a piece of family legacy in every seed.

"Perilla seeds are a very unique and attractive ingredient," she said.

History of perilla

Unlike sesame, which originated in India and the Middle East’s milder climates, perilla — a leafy plant in the mint family — thrives in tougher climates. It is believed to have been introduced to the Korean Peninsula from China in ancient times.

According to the National Institute of Crop and Food Science, the first mention of the cultivation of perilla in Korea was in "Hyangyakjipseongbang," a 15th-century medical book published during the reign of 1392-1910 Joseon Dynasty's King Sejong.

Farmers in mountainous regions often grew perilla as a hardy, reliable crop. According to Lim Jong-yeon, a certified trainee of National Intangible Cultural Heritage-designated Joseon royal court cuisine, perilla oil was widely used in the royal kitchen during the Joseon era.

Perilla seeds / Korea Times photo by Shim Hyun-chul

Perilla vs. sesame

Though they may resemble each other, perilla and sesame differ in flavor and growing conditions.

Sesame seeds, often roasted, are widely used in Korean cuisine as a garnish for everything from vegetable dishes to sauces and dips. Their oil, "chamgireum" in Korean, is a kitchen staple known for its savory and nutty flavor and used in dishes like bibimbap (steamed rice mixed with vegetables and meat) and various salads.

Perilla, while less commonly used as a garnish, brings a different characteristics to the table. Its leaves, with a minty fragrance, are a beloved part of Korean meals — often used in "ssam" (vegetable wraps), "jangajji" (pickles) and kimchi. The powdered seeds are used for soups like "samgyetang" (ginseng chicken soup), while its oil lends a more herbaceous, earthy note to dishes like "makguksu" (buckwheat noodles) and grilled vegetables.

"Perilla requires a colder environment to cultivate," Moon said, noting that its cultivation and flavor profile reflect Korea’s rugged agricultural landscape.

Health benefits

Moon believes perilla oil’s health benefits set it apart from other oils.

One key feature is its high content of alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) — a plant-based omega-3 fatty acid. ALA is known to help reduce inflammation, lower blood pressure and potentially decrease the risk of heart disease. Some studies also suggest ALA supports cognitive health, making it a brain-boosting choice for older adults.

Unlike fish oil, perilla oil provides omega-3s without marine pollutants or a fishy aftertaste. This makes it especially appealing to vegetarians, vegans and those with seafood allergies. It also contains antioxidants and polyphenols that help combat oxidative stress and support cellular health.

Experts note, however, that perilla oil should be used as a finishing oil rather than for high-heat cooking, as its nutrients degrade at high temperatures. It also has a relatively short shelf life and should be stored in a cool, dark place and used within a few months of opening.

A view of Okhee Mill, an artisanal perilla roastery and cafe / Captured from Instagram

From tradition to trend

Okhee Mill sells both perilla and sesame seeds and oils, all sourced from local farmers, mostly in Gangwon Province. That’s a major advantage, she said, as many roasteries use imported seeds from China, the world's top exporter. Last year, she processed nearly five tons of perilla seeds and expects to reach seven tons this year.

"Farmers are happy to have a reliable buyer and I’m happy to get a domestic supply," Moon said. She even distributes seedlings during the planting season to help ensure quality control.

While seed quality is important, Moon emphasized that roasting plays a key role in determining an oil’s taste, quality and yield.

"We offer two kinds of products," she said. "One is what we call 'light roasting,' which heats the seeds to about 100 degrees Celsius to dry them well. The other is roasted to 115 degrees Celsius, which gives a more toasty flavor."

The more deeply roasted the seeds, the more oil is extracted, she noted. However, over-roasting should be avoided due to potential health concerns.

Now five years into the business, Moon’s oils are gaining traction both online and offline. They’re sold in a department store in Incheon and are available on various online platforms.

"I would like to deliver a pleasant experience of perilla to my customers," Moon said.

Perilla Leaf & Pear Smoothie / Korea Times photo by Shim Hyun-chul

Creative menu

However, seeds and oil aren't the only things that Okhee Mill offers. Moon has also run a cafe where customers can taste perilla-related drinks. Earlier this year, thanks to its popularity, Moon expanded the cafe to the second floor of her roastery to serve more customers and further explore perilla’s potential in drinks and desserts. Among its offerings, three are the most coveted items.

Perilla Leaf & Pear Smoothie: This eye-catching drink features the vibrant green color of fresh perilla leaves blended with pear juice and topped with a scoop of sherbet. The pungent taste of perilla hits first, then transforms into a delicate sweetness from the pear — a refreshing summer treat.

Perilla Seed Ice Cream / Korea Times photo by Shim Hyun-chul

Perilla Seed Ice Cream: Okhee Mill cafe initially sprinkled whole seeds onto plain vanilla ice cream. Now, she incorporates finely ground seed powder into the ice cream itself, enhancing both its flavor and nutritional value. It’s served with a drizzle of perilla oil.

Perilla Latte: The cafe offers both caffeinated and noncaffeinated versions. For the former, Moon adds seeds to a regular latte for a crunchy twist. The latter blends seeds, honey and warm milk, topped with milk froth for extra richness.

At home, Moon experiments with perilla daily. One of her favorite recipes is topping Greek yogurt with a sprinkle of perilla seeds.

"People often eat yogurt with nuts. I replaced the nuts with perilla seeds and it's so good," she said.

Italy meets Korea in a pasta drizzled with perilla oil, one of Moon's go-to dishes.

"Make spaghetti aglio e olio (with garlic, olive oil and red pepper flakes), then finish it with perilla oil," she said.

Spaghetti aglio e olio with perilla oil / Courtesy of Moon Ji-yeon

Her mother’s favorite recipe? A simple salad with shredded cabbage, perilla oil, salt and pepper.

Customers at Okhee Mill’s cafe were delighted to have an artisanal outlet that adds a twist on the perilla menu.

“I haven’t found perilla ice cream elsewhere. When I have a friend coming over, I proudly bring them here as something unique for Wonju,” said customer Kim Mi-jin, who dropped by for some perilla ice cream.

Moon has bigger plans for her business and the future of perilla itself. She believes the humble seed has the potential to become Korea’s next globally recognized ingredient, much like olive oil in the Mediterranean.

"In Europe, people go on olive oil farm tours. I hope one day people seek out perilla farm tours — and I want Okhee Mill to be part of that experience," she said.