Gosari Express challenges vegan stereotypes in Seoul's historic Jungang Market
Entrance to Gosari Express / Courtesy of Gosari Express
Tucked away in the historic brick alleyways near Jungang Market, north of Sindang Station on Seoul Metro lines 2 and 6, is a hidden gem of a vegan restaurant, Gosari Express. Stepping through its vintage, graffiti-adorned glass door, visitors are greeted by the enticing aroma of rich spices — a delightful surprise for those who associate vegan cuisine with typically bland flavors.
Kim Je-eun, the ambitious owner of this unique restaurant opened in May, is driven by the belief that "food should be equal for everyone." Kim's primary mission is to serve vegan dishes that cater to all palates, including non-vegans.
"I wanted to break the stereotype that vegan food is tasteless. I aim to provide vegan cuisine that satisfies everyone," Kim said during a lively interview with The Korea Times, Aug. 5. "My aim is to show that being vegetarian isn’t difficult and that it can be as addictive and enjoyable as regular food."
This philosophy, according to the young CEO, inspired the name of her restaurant.
"Its name is a direct reference to Panda Express, a casual American Chinese food place. Panda Express isn’t a place you visit with grand plans; it’s a casual, go-to option for a meal. I wanted my restaurant to share similar vibes," Kim explained.
Signature noodle dishes from Gosari Express / Courtesy of Gosari Express
Gosari Express' signature dish features noodles made from the young stems of fernbrake, commonly known as "gosari" in Korea. The menu also includes noodles combined with fresh mugwort pesto and Nepalese dumplings with carrot puree — each dish visually appealing, not to mention flavorful.
Despite being entirely vegan, the restaurant’s offerings defy expectations. For example, the vegan base broth used in its wonton soup has a unique, savory umami flavor that it's almost impossible for a meat lover to believe that it doesn’t contain animal ingredients.
However, the restaurant’s appeal extends beyond the food. Gosari Express also offers a selection of unique alcoholic beverages, such as basil and rosemary makgeolli (Korean rice wine), enhancing the restaurant's overall charms.
"Our initial concept of the place was to provide somewhere people could unwind with a bowl of noodles and a drink," Kim said. "We want to resist letting our vegan identity define us entirely."
Kim has a strong belief that the food itself has to come first in order for her restaurant to gain acceptance.
"We want to compete in the competitive dining industry through our flavors rather than our vegan identity," she declared. "As a restaurant owner, the happiest moments are seeing satisfied customers and their empty plates."
Gosari Express' signature pasta dish with fernbrake stems / Courtesy of Gosari Express
Though her philosophy might suggest she is a strict vegan herself, Kim actually enjoys pairing instant noodles with soju — a habit quite distant from a vegan diet.
"One time, while working on a project at my previous company, we received fernbrake instead of chwinamul (aster scaber), due to a supplier error. Not wanting to waste it, I decided to create fernbrake oil pasta with plenty of garlic and onions. I was amazed at how fernbrake alone could deliver a meaty flavor. That was the start of my interest in vegan food," Kim explained.
In fact, her sister played a big part in influencing Kim’s perspective on the state of veganism in Korea.
"I remember being shocked when we visited Mangwon Market together and my sister said the only vegan option available for her was "tanghulu" (a Chinese candied fruit snack)," Kim said, highlighting the lack of vegan choices in traditional markets in Korea.
Gosari Express conducts an eco-friendly carbon reduction campaign for its customers under the translated slogan, "One Noodle, one tree" / Courtesy of Gosari Express
Choosing to locate her restaurant in Sindang-dong's Jungang Market was Kim's strategic move to challenge the traditional market scene that historically offers limited vegetarian options.
"We don’t want vegetarianism to define us entirely, but we do take pride in being a vegetarian establishment. Many people around this neighborhood — vendors and longtime residents alike — haven't been exposed to vegan food. I wanted to offer them our food and make a positive first impression for those trying vegetarianism for the first time," she said.
The location close to a traditional market also allows Gosari Express to easily source seasonal vegetables, which is an additional advantage, according to Kim.
Before opening Gosari Express, Kim was already an established entrepreneur with a startup called Bad Carrot, which developed fernbrake oil pasta sauce through Korean crowdfunding platforms like Wadiz and Tumblbug. Her pop-up store, Gosari by Bad Carrot in Mangwon-dong, had already won significant acclaim last year.
Kim's ambitions don't stop here. Transitioning from her successful venture in Mangwon-dong to launching Gosari Express is merely the start of her extensive list of goals.
"I am now working on creating vegan cup noodles so that people can enjoy our food anywhere," Kim said. "And as of now — not many are aware of this — but there isn’t a single vegan restaurant located inside Incheon International Airport. I am striving to make my vegan restaurant the first franchise to enter the country's main air gateway."
■ Address: 12-10 Toegye-ro 85-gil, Jung District, Seoul
■ Phone: 0507-1393-3140
■ Hours: 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m., Tuesday to Saturday
■ Website: www.vegetablerevolution.net