Buan, where centuries-old Buddhist culture meets Korea's quaint nature
A scenic view of Byeonsanbando National Park in Buan, North Jeolla Province, Jan. 10 / Korea Times photo by Park Han-sol
BUAN, North Jeolla Province — Centuries-old Buddhist culture meets picturesque nature in Buan, North Jeolla Province.
Our trip to the county, situated about 200 kilometers southwest of Seoul with a population of 50,000, begins at Naeso Temple — one of the oldest surviving Buddhist monasteries in Korea.
It is at this historic site, built in 633 during the late Baekje era (18 BCE–660 CE), that hundreds gathered on Jan. 9 to celebrate the new designation of the temple's 800-year-old bronze bell as a national treasure.
The Daeungjeon (Main Buddha Hall), left, and a Goryeo-era three-story stone pagoda are seen at Naeso Temple in Buan, North Jeolla Province, Jan. 10. Korea Times photo by Park Han-sol
The 13th-century Buddhist bronze bell housed in Naeso Temple / Courtesy of CHA
Produced in 1222, the relic is the largest among the surviving bronze bells from the late Goryeo Kingdom (918-1392), standing at a height of 103 centimeters and weighing approximately 420 kilograms.
Originally enshrined at the now-gone Cheongnim Temple in South Chungcheong Province, it was moved to its current location in 1850. The elevation of its cultural heritage status to a national treasure comes six decades after it was initially designated as a treasure in 1963.
The bell is considered a prime masterpiece of its kind for displaying the intricacy of Goryeo-era craftsmanship while inheriting the technical and aesthetic traditions of the Unified Silla Kingdom (668-935), according to Choi Eung-chon, head of the Cultural Heritage Administration (CHA), who is also a bronze bell specialist.
"In addition to its aesthetic qualities, the relic's exceptional academic value lies in that it is engraved with clear information on the production period, the location of its enshrinement, as well as the name of its master craftsman — Han Jung-seo," he said during the ceremony.
At its top, a dynamically carved “yongnyu” (a loop used to hang the bell) takes the shape of a dragon about to soar through the air. Its shoulder and “dangjwa” (the bell’s striking point) are adorned with blooming lotus patterns. Another striking feature includes bands of vines encircling the bell’s crown and sound bow.
The temple noted that the bell was struck as recently as the late 1980s before it was set aside for preservation.
A dynamically carved “yongnyu” (a loop used to hang the bell) in the shape of a dragon rests on top of the bell. Yonhap
The interior of the Daeungjeon (Main Buddha Hall) at Gaeam Temple, another historic monastery in Buan, North Jeolla Province / Courtesy of CHA
Just a half-hour ride away from Naeso Temple, nestled in the verdant valleys, is another monastery: Gaeam Temple.
This temple was established in 634, just a year after its neighbor, before it was razed and rebuilt in 1636 following the 1592-98 Japanese invasions of Korea.
Similar to Naeso Temple, Gaeam houses several state-designated treasures, including the Daeungjeon (Main Buddha Hall) and the 18th-century Yeongsanhoe Buddhist hanging scroll painting along with its original drawing.
The 30-meter-high Jikso Waterfall is nestled deep within the mountains and volcanic rock formations in Byeonsanbando National Park in Buan, North Jeolla Province. Korea Times photo by Park Han-sol
In addition to the centuries-old Buddhist architecture, there are plenty of showstoppers scattered across Buan for nature lovers.
Among them, perhaps the best-known is the Jikso Waterfall, with its roar echoing through the mountains and volcanic rock formations in Byeonsanbando National Park.
Standing at a height of 30 meters, the fall earns its name, “Jikso,” due to a distinctive feature — its water cascading directly into a round basin below without getting caught on any rocks.
This aquatic spectacle has been the subject of a number of literary works and paintings during the 1392-1910 Joseon era, including the 18th-century literati painter Kang Se-hwang’s “Scenes in Buan Prefecture.”
There’s also a mythical touch to this natural wonder; local legend has it that a dragon is coiled up in the pool beneath the waterfall. In the past, in times of drought, magistrates would convene at this site to perform rain rituals.
In the surrounding area, visitors can marvel at the columnar jointing of volcanic rocks — a geological phenomenon where rapidly cooled lava has shaped an array of rocks resembling polygonal pillars.
Buan's Gomso Salt Field is one of the few remaining natural salt production sites in Korea. Korea Times photo by Park Han-sol
After leaving the mountainous Byeonsanbando National Park, one can encounter Gomso Salt Field, one of the few natural salt production sites left in the country.
During Joseon, salt farming in the region relied on the “jayeom” method, which involved boiling ocean water in kilns. However, in the later days of the Japanese colonial rule (1910-45), this traditional practice gave way to the current “cheonilyeom” method, also known as solar sea salt.
The mineral-rich seawater in the area lends a flavorful and mildly sweet taste to the salt that is harvested between March and October.
Naturally, the county is renowned for its diverse array of “jeotgal” (salted seafood) dishes and even unique specialties like steamed buns seasoned with local salt.
A coastline view from the Jungmakdong Archaeological Site in Buan, North Jeolla Province / Korea Times photo by Park Han-sol
After savoring the scenery, why not venture to the westernmost tip of Buan, which stretches into the West Sea?
For over a millennium, the Jungmakdong Archaeological Site had been a strategic location for maritime exchanges in East Asia, linking the southwestern coast of Korea with Japan and China.
Perched on a coastal cliff, this place was a frequent gathering spot for traveling fishermen and merchants who held rituals to pray for safe voyages and bountiful catches, notably from the Three Kingdoms era (57 BCE–668 CE) through the Joseon period.
Excavations conducted in 1992 revealed a trove of ancient artifacts used in these rites, ranging from Chinese porcelain and metalware to Japanese vessels.
Even today, local people involved in the fishing industry continue to perform annual rituals for Grandmother Gaeyang, the guardian deity of the seas, at the Suseongdang shrine on site.
For those familiar with “The Tale of Shim Cheong,” it may be surprising to learn of the area’s possible connection to the classic Korean folk story.
The waters off the Jungmakdong Archaeological Site could be where the filial daughter Shim sacrificed herself to the sea god to help her blind father regain his sight. At least that’s what some historians at Yonsei University suggest.