VIDEO Temple reveals timeless devotion to Buddhism
A fish-shaped wind chime hangs from the exterior corner of Seonam Temple in South Jeolla Province. Korea Times photo by Choi Won-suk
By Park Jin-hai
SUNCHEON ― In Seonam Temple located in the foothills of Mount Jogye in South Jeolla Province, every small thing seems to form a bigger picture that Mother Nature has created, from rolling small cobbles on the unpaved road to a little stream, a tree trunk scorched by lightning strike and walls revealing clay and straw that has been standing for over a thousand years.
Unlike bigger temples that overwhelm visitors, Seonam Temple, the head temple of the Taego Order, boasts of modest and time-honored beauty. The historic temple, constructed by Doseon in 875, has no vivid decorations or majestic Four Heavenly Kings statues guarding devotees.
Instead Seungseongyo, a rainbow-shaped stone bridge designated Treasure No. 400, greets visitors. When crossing the bridge, one is believed to become a Daoist hermit and erase the contamination of the secular world.
Seungseongyo at Seonam Temple in South Jeolla Province. Korea Times photo by Choi Won-suk
Walking up a 1.5-kilometer cobblestoned hillside, stands One Pillar Gate (Iljumun) at the entrance of the temple, symbolizing the singular nature of truth. Climbing the stone steps further, temple complexes surrounded by low stone walls appear on different levels.
Temple' layouts accommodate the mountainous terrain specific to Korea. The interior design harmonizes with the exterior and the surrounding scenery.
Haemahn, a 55-year-old monk from Poland who has been practicing seon meditation at Seonam Temple for the past three months, says he admires the whole atmosphere of the meditation center. “Every morning, walking from my room to the seon meditation center, the beautiful mountain, sunshine and fresh wind give me awe,” he said. “I like to look inside and find my true self, so I practice meditation nine hours a day without speaking a word.”
Ven. Haemahn, a Polish monk, preaching Korean Buddhism in his homeland Korea Times photo by Choi Won-suk
He met Seungsahn, Korean seon master of the Jogye Order and founder of the international Kwan Um School of Zen, in Poland in 1983.
“I learned Japanese and Tibetan Buddhism before getting to know about Korean Buddism. For other Buddhism, I felt like I'm a complete foreigner but when I heard the Korean monks' chanting for the first time in Warsaw, it didn't feel exotic or distant but felt like I was home,” said the monk who came to Seonam Temple through the recommendation of his teacher Jeongmae Sunim from the Taego Order. It is his third visit to Korea to practice meditation at Korean temples.
He has stayed with Korean Buddhism and practiced meditation for the past 35 years since, and became a monk in 2014. He opened a Korean Zen meditation center in Poland and began preaching its teachings three years ago. “Though I don't speak any Korean language, I like to work hard in Poland to share Korean Buddhism with many others.”
Seonam Temple in South Jeolla Province. Korea Times photo by Choi Won-suk
The temple is one of seven traditional Korea mountain temples, which were inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage list last June, along with Tongdo Temple in Yangsan, Beopju Temple in Boeun and other mountain monasteries, in recognition of their “outstanding universal value” for their persistence since the seventh century along with the long, deep-rooted history of Buddhism in Korea. "These mountain monasteries are sacred places, which have survived as living centers of faith and daily religious practice to the present," UNESCO said in a statement.
Monks in evening prayer session at Seonam Temple in South Jeolla Province. Korea Times photo by Choi Won-suk
Monks in Seonam Temple in South Jeolla Province Korea times photo by Choi Won-suk
Although the temple buildings were destroyed during multiple wars including the 1592-98 Japanese invasions of Korea as well as fires, they were rebuilt continually to reach their current size.
Seonam Temple played a fundamental role in the development of Seon Buddhism, and many masters have practiced, taught and attained awakening there.
Small pipes made from bamboo trunk carry clean water coming down from the mountain to the carved stones to hold water. And it trickles down to the stream. As if showing the Buddha's teaching keeps flowing and enlightening people, the water doesn't freeze in winter but keeps flowing.
A young couple in their 20s, both Buddhists, stroll the temple grounds. They say they like the quiet, well-preserved and natural vegetation of the temple. “I like the trees and gardens in the temple. Compared with many temples in and around cities, the temple emanates natural, humble beauty,” said Lee Sang-ji from Ulsan.
Starting from around 4:30 p.m., the evening prayer session begins. Two monks take turns beating large drums. The drumming sound fills the whole valley, as if they are letting the Buddha Dharma reach the spirits of all sentient beings.
“Mokeo,” a wooden fish-shaped drum, and “Beopjong,” the great dharma bell, follow the drum sound. Darkness wraps the temple with accessional sounds of crows and nearby streams.
A monk beats a big drum called beopgo, signaling for the start of the evening prayer session. Korea Times photo by Choi Won-suk