How to approach wine

'Just enjoy, and find your own flavor'

Christian Sotomayor, import and export director of Valdivieso

Hans Lee, CEO of wine shop and restaurant The Jell

By Yun Suh-young

Beginners to wine often fret that the world of wine is too deep and complex to understand. Hence amateurs hesitate to drink or learn about wine and fear making bold selections at restaurants. Wine experts, however, say they need not fear. Wine drinkers don't have to be experts to enjoy wine, they say. People just need to try different wines and they'll naturally pick up the taste.

Christian Sotomayor, import and export director of Valdivieso

"You don't have to be a good drinker to drink wine," says Christian Sotomayor, import and export director of Valdivieso, Chile's oldest wine exporter.

"Drinking wine isn't so you can get drunk. The purpose is not to consume alcohol but to enjoy the fragrance, the flavor and the ambiance."

Sotomayor visited Korea recently to discuss the launch of the Caballo Loco Grand Cru, a premier level of the popular Caballo Loco series, which will be available starting in December.

"When you're selecting wine at a restaurant, go for the flavor. If you're a beginner, then go for recommendations of the sommelier. If the waiter knows about wine, he'll recommend something good. People tend to select by price thinking expensive is good, but sometimes they can be disappointed by their choice," he said.

"Try one after another. If you gain confidence, you can go for another flavor."

When evaluating wine, there are three factors to consider: the color, the smell and the taste.

"When all three factors are more or less even, we say it's 'balanced.' Too much of anything (tannin, acidity, etc.) is unbalanced. If it's not a good color or not a good smell or if it is in any way harsh or unpleasant, it's not balanced," said Sotomayor.

"It's a personal taste so wine has to be pleasant for the drinker. There shouldn't be anything that upsets you."

When evaluating color, look for intensity and brightness, he said.

"If the surface is shiny, that's what we call bright. Transparency is important."

There is a food for every wine, says Sotomayor.

"Korean barbecue is fantastic with Carmenere (a type of wine widely produced in Chile). Kimchi goes well with Chardonnay."

The most popular type of wine in Korea is red, especially the Cabernet Sauvignon, he said.

"Chardonnay (a popular type of white wine) is also becoming popular," he said.

As wines are entering into the daily dining scene, he sees this as an improvement in Korean wine culture.

"9,000 won per glass is an improvement," he said, pointing to a poster plastered on the wall of a restaurant.

"Since I first came here in 1995, people are trading up, becoming pickier and more selective. Koreans are now very comfortable with Chilean wines and Korea has become a mature country in terms of wine drinking. Our sales are increasing every year."

Hans Lee, CEO of wine shop and restaurant, The Jell

"To beginners I usually recommend New World wines to start with as they're easier to approach and hard to dislike because they're usually sweeter than the Old World wines," said Hans Lee, CEO of the wine shop and restaurant The Jell in Itaewon, central Seoul.

"Old World wines tend to be more sour and bitter because of the environment where the grapes are cultivated. South America and warmer regions don't have a lot of rain which makes the grapes sweeter. France, on the other hand, has harsh winds and cloudy weather, which creates acidity. But as you keep drinking, you'll start appreciating the taste of Old World wines."

Old World wines refer to those produced in countries such as France, Italy, Spain, and Germany where wine cultivation originated. New World refers to countries such as Chile, the U.S., Australia, New Zealand and Argentina which entered the industry relatively recently.

"I'd say good wine is wine with a certain level of acidity. I recommend an acidity level of somewhere between 13 to 13.5. When a wine has some sweetness supported by acidity, that's good wine," says Lee.

Before tasting the wine, consumers first smell it, and then swirl it to emit more fragrance.

"When we swirl the wine in a glass, we swirl it anti-clockwise toward us. This is not only to prevent splashing it on your neighbor but also to emit its fragrance," he said.

"The more the wine makes contact with the air, the more fragrance it emits, so it is easier to smell the wine when drinking in a wide-lipped glass. Heavier wines take longer to be 'opened' (emit proper flavor) so they're decanted (poured in open-glass containers) to contact the air."

When choosing wines, don't be frustrated about selecting the best, says Lee.

"People often ask me to name the best wines but that's like asking me which is the prettiest Miss Universe. Picking the best is unimportant because it all differs by individuals," said Lee.

"Rather, the act of drinking wine is more important. Who you're drinking with can influence the taste. Funny thing about wine is that people never hide and drink on their own. They drink together, converse, and share their happiness. Drinking together with your family is also great culture."

Lee, a first-generation wine importer and distributor who began his business 23 years ago when the wine industry in Korea was yet to ripen, says people's attitudes toward wine has changed.

"They don't drink insensibly anymore. They don't gulp it down at once like soju or drink to get drunk. They also know expensive isn't the best," said Lee.

"But for wine culture to really settle into our daily lives, we still have a long way to go. We need to cut the price to make it more approachable. That's the government's role. Then people will go for wine over soju and start bringing it home to drink with family, creating a family culture and there will be fewer fights in the streets."

Lee recently introduced a brunch option at his restaurant to encourage more casual visits.

"Our wine club was solely membership-based until 2012. Now we're open to all customers. To approach younger people, we wanted to lower the barriers so we opened for brunch."