Remnants of the Cold War bloom into arts space

Dora Observatory / Photos by Lee Hyo-won

Experience military life inside the Civilian Control Line of the Demilitarized Zone

By Lee Hyo-won

Before Psy broke worldwide records, the "Gangnam Style" star was considered the unluckiest guy in Korea for enlisting in the military service ― mandatory for men ― not once, but twice.

The 2007 scandal still resonates strongly with many Koreans because the two-year-long service for men is notoriously strenuous and taxing ― so much so that the reality show, Real Men, has become a smash hit as stars dare to relive the experience, albeit for just a few days.

Men are drafted because North and South Koreas are still technically at war. The armistice, a cessation of hostilities, rather than a peace treaty, was signed at the end of the Korean War (1950-1953). Today, more than 70 percent of the troops from both Koreas are stationed along the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) cutting through the Korean Peninsula ― making it the most heavily armed place in the world.

Ammunition storage space now used as an exhibition space — Camp Greaves

Ironically, it is also one of the nation’s top tourist attractions.

Visitors head to the area that is one of the oldest surviving physical remnants of the Cold War. But, in recent years, the inter-Korean border has come to represent more forward-thinking, universal values of peace and unification. The local government, accordingly, announced plans to build a "peace park" in the area, as a new symbol of conciliation and conservation.

Scores of tourists visit observatories, museums and abandoned North Korean spy tunnels ― but not many know that it is also possible to experience a slice of Real Men-style military life at Camp Greaves, a former base located in the Paju, Gyeonggi Province region of the DMZ.

This year marks the 70th anniversary of Korea's liberation from Japan and also the 70 years since the Koreas have been separated. For the occasion, The Korea Times spent an uncanny weekend escape at the world's most fortified border.

DMZ: Getting the terms righ

DMZ, CCL and MDL are among just a few acronyms that visitors will notice while heading toward North Korea. First, the line that actually segregates North and South Koreas is the Military Demarcation Line (MDL), a 155-mile-long (249 km) strip that cuts through the Korean Peninsula from east to west. The DMZ is the buffer zone 4 kilometers wide with the MDL running through its center.

In addition to the DMZ, the Civilian Control Line (CCL) provides an additional buffer zone within 5 to 20 kilometers from the southern boundary of the DMZ. It serves to limit and control the entry of civilians into the area. Camp Greaves is situated inside the CCL, which is virtually the closest that the average person can get to North Korea

Repurposing historical spaces

A former U.S. military camp, Camp Greaves was built during the Korean War and was returned to Korea in 2007 after U.S. troops left it in 1999. Korea has seen interesting transformations of historical venues such as the colonial-era Seoul Station-turned-museum and, likewise, Camp Greaves has since been renovated into a cultural space.

The gymnasium, of which the outside walls are covered with colorful graffiti, now sets the stage for various cultural events, while the ammunition storage buildings house film screenings and exhibitions. The opening ceremony of the 7th DMZ International Documentary Film Festival (DMZ Docs) recently took place at Camp Greaves, and tours here are expected to increase after the peace park is created.

"I believe the film festival is a great start for turning Camp Greaves into a cultural space," said festival director and actor Cho Jae-hyun. "It appears the local Gyeonngi Province government feels the same way. You can’t actually go inside the DMZ zone, so the camp really serves as a symbolic landmark."

"It's been 70 years since liberation, but recent events [involving heavy arms crossfire between North and South Korea] have shown that Korea's true liberation means unification. This makes DMZ Docs all the more important for promoting messages of peace," said Nam Kyung-pil, Gyeonggi Province governor and festival chairman.

Youth hostel for 'Real Men'

Camp Greaves, moreover, allows visitors to stay overnight at its youth hostel for a taste of military life. Rooms allow up to eight to sleep on mats spread out in a row along personal lockers, just as seen on television ― though Kim Seung-hwan, a male visitor in his early 30s, remarked, "The blankets and sheets are very luxurious compared to what the soldiers had. It's bringing back a lot of memories of a time I am glad is over."

There is a small business area with desktop computers and a snack bar, where the sales clerk is dressed like a soldier. Meals (5,000-6,000 won) are served military style, featuring some "classics" such as broiled pollack soup. "Pollack soup was frequently served because I heard that the dried fish is very flavorful, and a lot of broth can be made using only a tiny amount," said Kim.

Before you go

Because of the nature of the DMZ, the camp cannot be located by GPS/navigation. The hostel helps provide directions from the closest public transportation point, Imjingang train station. Visitors must plan ahead for the one-hour trip from Seoul because entry and exit are strictly controlled.

Reservations for staying overnight at the hostel must be made at least two weeks in advance. Providing identification is mandatory for the process, as is being in possession of IDs at the time of the tour.

Accommodation costs 11,000-20,000 won, while meals are 5,000-6,000 won. Package tours are available and include a variety of activities ranging from bike tours, visits to the Dora Observatory where you can peek into Kaesong, North Korea through binoculars, and descend a couple dozen stories underground to see an abandoned North Korean spy tunnel. Visit dmzcamp131.or.kr/ for more information (in Korean only).

The writer is former Korea bureau chief of Louise Blouin Media's Blouin Artinfo. She is the Seoul correspondent for The Hollywood Reporter and contributes to CNN, WWD and Cathay Pacific's Silkroad magazine.