Mustering it up with passion

Sarabeth Levine at one of her stores in New York. / Courtesy of Sarabeth’s Kitchen Korea

Sarabeth Levine opens first Sarabeth's in Korea

By Yun Suh-young

It was her fourth and last interview of the day. She arrived only the day before and was still getting over jet lag. Having barely slept, she woke up at 5 a.m., remained awake throughout the day and sat through four interviews. She must have been tired; but from time to time, she would raise her voice in excitement, her eyes twinkling with passion. Her speech would pick up the pace at certain points when she was immersed in enthusiasm.

At the age of 72, Sarabeth Levine was opening her 15th global Sarabeth's store here in Korea, which is the first in the country.

Sarabeth's is a famous restaurant in New York. She also operates coffee shops and bakeries and her restaurant was one of the sets for the American TV series, "Sex and the City" and "Gossip Girl."

It was the day before the official opening on Aug. 28, and Levine was busy adding last minute touches to the store and tasting the pancakes that would be served the next day. The store, which is located on the second floor of the newly opened Hyundai Department Store in Pangyo, Gyeonggi Province, only had a couple of dishes available during the week-long pre-opening period.

When asked why she decided to open a store in Korea, Levine said, "We don't choose a location, the location chooses us."

She has opened four stores in Japan since 2012 which have been successful. After the Korean branch, she's planning to open another in Tokyo and one in Dubai early next year, all based on offers from those regions.

Speaking of the store's concept, the stores in Japan are more girly with more cuteness, while the store in Korea is contemporary and unisex, she said. She hopes to reach out to everybody.

The first Korean branch of Sarabeth’s in Pangyo, Gyeonggi Province. Courtesy of Sarabeth’s Kitchen Korea

"This store in Korea is much like the newest Sarabeth's on Park Avenue South. It has a nice contemporary feeling ― wood panels, similar stripes, chairs custom-made for Korea. It looks very much like one of our New York restaurants," she said.

"All of the stores have their own styles depending on their location. We've been successful in Japan. They chose different areas based on logistics and population ― they've targeted the female clientele. In the U.S., we don't target female clientele. We have everybody from families, business meetings to private parties," she said.

Although Asians have taken a particular liking to the Eggs Benedict, Levine hopes customers enjoy other aspects that Sarabeth's represents.

"Asia has created its own concept. They've developed their own Sarabeth's, taking a liking to the Eggs Benedict. But we're a specialty food company. We serve breakfast, lunch and dinner. Eggs Benedict is a small part of the menu. Here, I'm trying to create a much fuller menu than just breakfast. It's more than just the eggs. I want people to know that," she said.

If she'd recommend other dishes from Sarabeth's, they'd be zucchini salad, club sandwiches, waldorf salad, and mac and cheese.

When opening stores, the most difficult part is training, she says.

"The training is very hard. Here in Asia, it's most difficult because there's a language problem."

But despite the difficulties, what keeps her going is the love for her work.

"It's very stressful to open the restaurants. It's stressful even to do it in the U.S. There's the architect, the food, the employees, training, practice, opening, being a success. It's a lot of work. You have to really love the restaurant business to do this 'cause it's not easy," said Levine.

"Sometimes I wonder why I do it. But what I love about it is that it's like a Broadway show ― the set has to be built, the characters have to be rehearsed and there's the opening night and you know you're not the best but want to be the best. The orchestra, the timing and everything. It's the whole process and you have to love that process. I love the process. It's exciting and it's rewarding."

Since 1981 when she established the brand, she worked almost every day, barely taking a holiday. This is her 35th year and she still works every day, except now she's taking breaks on weekends. She's still always in the kitchen working with her staff.

"Keeps you young when working. My mother always says, 'Don't stop moving,'" she said.

"People ask me what my secret to success is. It's not work for me. It's my way of life. I love what I do. When I get up in the morning, it's not about 'Oh..I have to go to work.' My workplace is home. For me, it's just an extension of my home."

Before she became "Sarabeth," she taught at school, raised children, worked in the dental field, and was about to enter a dental school, which didn't work out because she couldn't be far from her children as she was raising them on her own after a divorce. Then accidentally Sarabeth's happened. She made homemade marmalade and gave it as gifts to friends who loved it and urged her to sell them at retail shops. Then she met Bill, who became her husband and business partner, and together they opened a small store in the Upper West Side which became a sensation.

"I want Sarabeth's to bring fresh, classical recipes to share with people. I like to feed people," she said.

"I don't do this for money. That's not my focus. My focus is spreading the word- sharing this. It's about loving what you do."

Levine, who has a second book due to come out on Oct. 13, said she doesn't know how many more stores she'll open.

"It depends on the success. You start with one and see how it goes. We learn from the first and decide what to add or take away for the second. By the time we get to the fourth, we think we've learned everything, but we haven't. We want there to be more, but one at a time."

Ending the interview, Levine was content that she gave a good interview ("I gave you the essence of the person that I am," she said). Despite being tired from a long flight and jet lag, she was glad she was able to "muster it up" for the reporter. "I like that word, muster. Bring it up!"