Pompeii - textbook of archaeology, anthropology, art

A view of a small part of Pompeii, the graveyard of an ancient city. / Courtesy of Rachel Sang-hee Han

By Rachel Sang-hee Han

Pompeii is the textbook of history, archaeology, anthropology and art, all combined into one. Ever since the discovery in 1599, it has been one of the most intriguing history sites in the world, and all the praise is, in fact, true.

I’ve only seen photos and documentaries about the tragic volcanic eruption of Mt. Vesuvius, and a traveler with a deep interest in history and especially archaeology, I was very much intrigued to see all the casts of victims, the houses, and the overall way of life back in 79 AD. All I can say is that while I was glad I finally paid a visit to the famous site, I sensed the familiar worry many Italians tend to have today regarding their nation: mismanagement.

Pomepii Viva, or ‘Living Pompeii’ was a campaign launched in 2010 but fizzled out two years later. The city may have been hit by a natural disaster, but it’s now undergoing something worse: mismanagement and neglect. / Courtesy of Rachel Sang-hee Han

The walk of history

Even as you enter the main entrance of Pompeii, you will probably not be able to imagine how big the area is. I know I didn’t. The tourist map helps a lot, but it still doesn’t do the actual size, which is about 660 square meters, justice.

The area is divided into sections according to “Regios,” or regions. These neighborhoods were and still are consisted of blocks, streets and particular sites, such as temples, public baths, an amphitheater and even taverns. Despite the fact that more than one third of the city is still known to be buried, it offers a clear picture of how well organized and developed the ancient city was.

The city may been buried for a long time, but it’s still quite easy to imagine how glorious it was through walls, streets and various columns.

I kept on looking for the area where you could see the casts of the citizens, but found that most of the important casts and relics have been moved to the Naples National Archaeological Museum. The smaller artifacts may have been moved, but you can still find remnants of Pompeii life through other larger scaled ruins.

The taverns, for example. The taverns were located in the area of various industries, residences and businesses and you can clearly tell that it was a tavern of some sort by just looking around. The walls are normally painted in a distinctive color such as red and they also have a counter top with three to four deep canister-like holescarved through the counter. These were possibly used to store pots of hot food such as soups or sauces. It was like someone just left the tavern for a while, which was in fact, exactly what happened. The eruption may have destroyed the city as a whole, but it maintained the way of life just as the citizens knew it at the time. These tools, walls and structuresdon’t offer vague guesses, but demonstrate the daily lives of the Romans.

Most of the important casts and artifacts were moved to the Naples National Archaeological Museum, but you can still find a handful displayed at the site.

Buried then, neglected now

Pompeii has been a popular tourist destination for over 250 years, and to be honest, the site does show a certain level of exhaustion as a “tourist site.” Even considering the many years and footsteps of travelers from around the world, it’s clear that the site has seen better days. But it would be wrong to simply fault the travelers.

Poor management and maintenance has been an important yet ignorant issue for the Italian government regarding Pompeii, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Some walls and even a temple collapsed after heavy rain last March, calling for immediate yet long-term solutions. The Great Pompeii Project, a $145.02 million restoration plan, was launched in 2013, but it hit delays over disagreements on who should be named to lead the works. The result is a suffering world heritage site with crumbling walls, littered grounds and stray dogs living under the roofs of ruins.

It’s not difficult to see how mismanaged the site is, even without reading the news about the collapses. Plastic and paper banners blocking the entrance of visitors are thrown away or littered outside of walls and houses, while some artifacts, important mosaics are clumsily covered or blocked with plastic covers, making it impossible to see clearly.

Perhaps it was a good idea to move the major artifacts and casts to the National Museum for the sake of them. And it’s also inevitable for a city that was buried and thus “protected” from natural processes such as rain, wind and animals.

But the sense of neglect and mismanagement can turn out to be a dangerous thing, even more than the volcanic eruption that destroyed the city. And if a traveler like me can feel it by just walking through streets, it’s clear that it’s time for a wind of change for the ancient Roman city.

Rachel Sang-hee Han is a former staff reporter at The Korea Times and former editor at CNN Travel. She lives in Germany and runs a travel blog at rachelsanghee.com

Travel tips to Pompeii

◇ I would recommend comfortable and closed shoes like sneakers or even flats. Sandals can become annoying not only because they can get uncomfortable, but because you are basically walking on sandy streets from start to finish. Don’t be surprised when your feet and shoes turn brown and grey from all the sand and dirt.

◇ If you want a more extensive experience, try out the guided tours. If not, the audio guide is a big help for those who want a bit more freedom but still want to learn about the overall area and history.

◇ There is a cafeteria where you can buy drinks and simple food like sandwiches, but you can also bring your own. Just make sure to throw away all the trash in the designated areas.

◇ Water fountains are available throughout the ruins, so be sure not to throw away your empty water bottle. It can get very hot and humid during the summer months and also considering the sandy wind, it’s crucial to stay hydrated.

◇ Stick to a plan. The information center or ticket booth offer maps of the ruins, so before just wandering off, check the areas you want to visit and follow the map. The streets and houses look very similar, so it’s easy to get lost.

Murals and mosaics are also must-sees for those who want to get a clearer picture of daily lives and the art culture of the ancient Romans.