Stuttgart, a city of cars and culture

A view of the city from one of the vineyards in Stuttgart / Courtesy of Rachel Sang-hee Han

By Rachel Sang-hee Han

Stuttgart, GERMANY

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The biggest difference between Seoul and Stuttgart is not the number of parks, the food, the drinks or the people. It’s the pace of life.

Stuttgart, compared to Seoul, runs at a slower pace. Sometimes it can get a bit annoying, for instance all the paperwork, the stack of mail at the end of the week and the same restaurants, bars and cafes. But sometimes it’s nice to step back a bit and enjoy a break.

So as a short break from the usual travel column, this time I’ve arranged a simple introduction of the place that started my journey as a Europe-based Korean journalist.

Drinking wine at a wine cabin is quite an experience. It’s like a ski lodge in warm weather and wine. Courtesy of Stuttgart-Marketing GmbH

Festivals for every season

Stuttgart has quite a long, cold winter and as soon as the weather starts to feel warmer, the city transforms itself into a festival hub. The most famous would be the Volksfest, which is Stuttgart’s version of Oktoberfest. Oktoberfest is, in fact, not a single event. The beer festival in Munich is the most famous, but many other small and big cities in Germany have their own versions of Oktoberfest and in Stuttgart it takes place two times a year ― every spring (the Fruelingsfest) and autumn (the Cannstatter Volksfest).

The International Festival of Animated Film and the Jazzopen Stuttgart event kicks off the season, with films, events, concerts, shows and drinks entertaining people from both Stuttgart and others.

During the summer, there’s the Sommerfest, which includes a variety of performances, music, games, drinks and food under white tents all throughout the evening. Then comes the Weindorf, where the people of Stuttgart have been enjoying the best of Swabian food and wine since 1976. It’s now one of the most popular festivals in Stuttgart, with millions of tourists coming just for the event, and my personal favorite.

The Spaetzle, a type of noodle dish served with cheese or a special sauce, is a popular dish enjoyed with beer, wine and any other drink.

As it becomes chillier and the days become shorter, the city prepares for the grueling winter and the famous Christmas market, or the “Weihnachtsmarkt.” Stuttgart’s Christmas market is one of the biggest in Germany and there are lines of tour buses and tourists walking along the narrow streets of heavily decorated stalls and shops to prove it. One of the great things about the Christmas market, aside from the very Christmassy ornaments and ambiance, is the food. From sausages, traditional Swabian to Italian sausages, chocolate covered fruits to wine, beer and the famous “gluewein,” or mulled wine, it offers all the great festival food at one time and place.

The power of autos

The Porsche Museum may not be the biggest, but it offers more than enough information about the brand and its creator. / Courtesy of Rachel Sang-hee Han

The two auto powerhouses, Porsche and Mercedes-Benz, are both from and based in Stuttgart. Along with other German car companies such as BMW and Volkswagen, the two companies do bring their fair share of tourists thanks to its merchandise, museums and various events held annually.

The most popular are the museums, for it’s a convenient way to learn about the past, present and future of both companies.

On a personal note, the Porsche Museum, which is smaller than the Mercedes-Benz Museum, tends to be more stylish. The museum building itself is a bit more futuristic than the Mercedes-Benz facility and the display is a bit edgier at times. On the other hand, the Mercedes-Benz Museum spans not only the history of the company, but also the overall history of the world, including social, economical, political and cultural aspects.

Home of Stuttgart Ballet

Thanks to Kang Sue-jin, the Stuttgart Ballet’s principal dancer and now artistic director of the Korea National Ballet, the German ballet company is already quite well known in Korea.

All the expectations and wonders of the prima ballerina are true. Kang does interviews when the Stuttgart Ballet holds events for families and children and there are also various photo books of the dancer inside and outside the company. But Kang aside, the first major ballet company in Germany is in fact one of the best in Europe. It was founded by legendary choreographer John Cranko and has introduced various works spanning from classical to modern ballets such as "Eugene Onegin" and "Streetcar Named Desire.”

Wine

Jazzopen is held every year and offers performances and concerts by world famous jazz artists. / Courtesy of Opus GmbH

One cultural and culinary aspect I learned about Stuttgart was the wine. Wine was one of the main sources of income from the 17th century in Stuttgart, and with the Neckar River running through the city, the surrounding hills are perfect for vineyards and thus has been a key ingredient in the city’s cuisine, lifestyle and society.

In fact, the average consumption of wine in the Baden Wuerttemburg region, where Stuttgart is the capital, is almost half as much as in the entire the country. Stuttgart’s number is higher and actually doubles that of Germany as a whole. So if you thought Germany and Germans were only interested in beer and making beer, you were wrong.

The Stuttgart Weindorf is the biggest wine festival in the area and has been going on for more than 35 years. More than 500 different local wine labels from the region are offered through the 28 open-air tents, restaurants and “wine cabins” around the city center, accompanied by the local cuisine. The Stuttgart Weindorf runs during August and September annually.

Swabian food

Swabia is the cultural, linguistic and historic region of southwestern Germany, which includes Stuttgart. The region has special dishes that go well with both beer and wine.

Maultaschen is like a square dumpling, filled with meat, spinach, onion and soaked stale bread. It usually comes in a beef broth but it’s also deep fried or steamed at occasions. Another popular Swabian dish is the Spaetzle, which is a type of noodle dish served with cheese, or with a special sauce, as a stew or with different spices and vegetables. Many restaurants in Stuttgart offer a special Swabian menu or plate, making it easier for travelers and even locals to try out typical dishes at once.

Rachel Sang-hee Han is a former staff reporter at The Korea Times and former editor at CNN Travel. She lives in Germany and runs a travel blog at rachelsanghee.com