A retreat in Gangnam ― Find peace at Bongeun Temple

By Kim Rahn

Cars pass, dispersing exhaust gas, on roads near the COEX in Gangnam, one of Seoul’s busiest business and entertainment districts. But taking a walk into the back streets, in a moment you are transported into a green world of tranquility and pureness.

Such a sudden, but agreeable environmental change takes place when you enter Bongeun Temple.

The temple, originally built 1,200 years ago, is located in the middle of Gangnam where one of the nation’s largest entertainment complexes, the COEX Mall, is just across the street. The trendy Cheongdam and Apgujeong areas are near, and the business Mecca of Teheran Street is one block away.

Whether you seek spiritual peace and religious worship, or just want a rest and to stroll between business hours, Bongeun Temple may be the right choice.

New district surrounds historic temple

Easily accessible, Bongeun Temple has many young visitors compared to other temples located in mountains in provinces, including businesspeople from nearby firms and foreign tourists who drop by during shopping trips in Gangnam.

Ironically, the young generations’ favorite temple is one of the oldest in Korea ― it was built in A.D. 794 during the Silla Kingdom (A.D. 57-935). According to Samguk Sagi, a history book depicting the three-kingdom era including Silla, it was one of seven temples specially managed by the state.

In the Joseon Kingdom (A.D. 1392-1910), Confucian society suppressed Buddhism. But in 1550, Empress Regent Munjeong supported the religion, and Bongeun Temple became the main temple of the Seon sect under head monk Bou. In 1562, the temple was rebuilt at its current location from a site near Seonneung Station.

Dozens of historical figures, including literary men and scholars, had ties with the temple in the late Joseon era. Calligrapher Kim Jeong-hee, better known by his pen name Chusa, was among them, and he wrote the name board of “panjeon,” a hall where 3,438 woodblocks of Sutra are kept.

In the 1960s, the nation’s Buddhism underwent restructuring and the current Jogye Order was founded. Bongeun Temple became one of temples of the nation’s largest sect.

Full of Buddhist features

Bongeun Temple is not only a getaway for citizens seeking a rest but also the worship place for faithful believers, with more than 200,000 registered. A dozen halls, numerous sculptures, and other Buddhist images are surrounded by greenery.

One of the most impressive features is the Mireuk Daebul, or Great Statue of the Maitreya Buddha, the future Buddha who it is believed will save mankind.

It is surprising that such a high statue (23 meters) is located in the middle of Gangnam and that despite the height, it is not seen until one gets very close to the temple compound ― probably there are too many skyscrapers around to notice such a statue as tall as a seven- to eight-story building.

The statue was built relatively recently, in 1996, but is now representative of the temple.

Bongeun Temple is also famous for having many cultural properties. The name board of panjeon is Seoul’s Tangible Cultural Property No. 83. An incense burner in the temple was designated as National Treasure No. 321 and is currently kept at Dongguk University Museum.

There are 19 more tangible properties designated by Seoul, including statues of the four celestial kings who are believed to protect the Buddha’s teaching, and Seonbuldang, a hall used as the national examination center for monks during the Joseon era.

Temple Life program

Like many temples in Korea, Bongeun Temple offers templestay programs, in which participants eat, sleep, live and pay worship like Buddhist monks for one or two days.

But as the temple is located in the middle of a business district and a large number of tourists visit, a shorter program called Temple Life is more popular.

“More than 7,000 people come to experience Temple Life per year. Over 90 percent of them are foreigners,” a temple staffer said.

The two-and-a-half-hour program includes a tour of the temple, tea ceremony, meditation and paper lotus lantern making. It is presented for groups of tourists of at least five who make reservations a week before the participation.

Every Thursday, the temple also operates the program for individual travelers, who can make an on-site registration. The program is given in English and the participation fee is 20,000 won.

“Many of Temple Life applicants are those who participate in conferences and events at the COEX, which is just across the street, as it is a good opportunity for those busy businesspeople to experience Korean culture for a short time. Some travel agencies for foreign tourists also include the program as an option,” the staffer said.

More details of the programs are available at 02-3218-4895.

How to get there

By subway, get off at Exit 6 of Samseong Station line No. 2 and go straight for about 100 meters toward ASEM Tower, and you can find the temple entrance across the street. Or you can get off at Exit 2 of Cheongdam Station line No. 7, go straight for 150 meters toward Gyeonggi High School, and find the temple on your right.