Pierre Gagnaire Makes Magic
By Bae Ji-sook
Staff Reporter
Pierre Gagnaire, hailed as the ``Picasso of Gastronomy'' among ardent fans, is in fact more than a chef. Followers post pictures of him as they would Tom Cruise or Brad Pitt and praise his creations as they would a great piece from Tiffany's.
Indeed, the special dinner course ``Homage a Seoul'' at the eponymous restaurant ``Pierre Gagnaire a la Seoul,'' located on the top floor of the Lotte Seoul Hotel, is something to behold.
A single taste starts with a simple signature flavor, but soon develops into a ``firework'' of a thousand flames. Every dish has different nuances ― they are sweet but sour; fruity but gingery; and over all, hot and cold.
In one of his signature dishes, ``onctueux d'endive au bleu d'Auvergne avec jus de kimchi gelifie'' the unexpected marriage of Kimchi and blue cheese is surprising and pleasant ― a two-hour roller coaster ride for the senses.
Gagnaire said he likes to explore the world of flavors. ``I focus on a simple sense to start then develop it into some complicated mixture of texture and tastes. I believe that I can communicate my heart and dreams through the dishes. I believe that people who enjoy the food understand me,'' Gagnaire said in an interview with The Korea Times.
The chef with more than three decades of cooking experience picked Seoul as the latest destination for his ``Gagnaire Empire'' with that in mind.
``Seoul has reached the stage where food has become something more than just filling the stomach. However, unlike its status as a business hub, there aren't enough supreme-class restaurants. That amazed me and at the same time, amused me,'' he said.
He said ``Homage a Seoul'' is just a start of a very long trip to his gastronomic delights.
``I do think that we will end up presenting some simple dishes, but for now I have concentrated more on showing off the glamorous and luxurious side of French cuisine and moreover, the world of Pierre Gagnaire,'' he said, explaining the complex dishes currently on his menu.
The Michelin three-star chef, who has eight restaurants around the world, admitted that Seoul is a challenge but that he is always finding new strengths to overcome any hurdles.
``I was quite well-known in the Western world, which helped me open restaurants in Las Vegas and other tourist-oriented cities, and run them without a problem. Here, where I am not so well-known, it has been a new experience to dig into new things. Everything on the menu has been designed especially for Seoul through a series of meetings ― they do not suddenly pop out from the head ― and the staff has been challenged to carry them out. And at last, we have succeeded.
``It will take time for people to get used to the new concepts. But I am sure that Seoulites, among the most delicate gourmands in the world, will come to love them.''
Gagnaire added that he has found his new mission here. ``I am falling in love with the city and its cuisine. I hope I can bridge the Western world and Korea in the kitchen. It is a new goal for me,'' he said.
``Maybe you will see a different side of Pierre Gagnaire in the near future!''