By Cathy Rose A. Garcia
Staff Reporter
At a glance, Hadongkwan stands out among the neighboring restaurants because of its traditional Korean-style main entrance.
When the restaurant moved to its Myeong-dong location in 2007, the owners brought along their hanok gate and installed it onto their new building, giving it an odd uniqueness. In fact, it's not just the hanok gate that they brought with them. They also brought their unchanging recipe for ``gomtang,'' or beef stew, with which they have been serving many hungry customers for over 60 years.
Although Hadongkwan's gomtang was usually sought by older customers, the restaurant gained popularity among younger customers after being featured in the comic book ``Sikgaek.'' In it, the owner claims that the key formula to the restaurant's success is 36·2·0·60: Only 36-month-old Korean female cattle is served; the process of boiling and cooling is repeated twice; no artificial flavoring is used, and Hadongkwan has retained its unchanging taste for 60 years.
Once you step into the restaurant, you'll find yourself in a rather simple environment, with a lineup of old wooden tables and chairs taking up the first floor. Because of their busy lunch hour, during which the place becomes packed with businessmen and women, they also have tables on the second floor. However, since we arrived around closing time, the place was unusually quiet, with only one or two customers slowly sipping their gomtang.
Once seated, the server looks expectantly as customers ought to order immediately. Why so little time to decide? Hadongkwan's modest menu consists of only three items: regular gomtang (8, 000 won), large gomtang (10, 000 won), and ``suyuk,'' (boiled beef cold cuts, 40, 000 won for 300 grams). However, you have the option of customizing your order by making it extra-hot, less greasy, or asking for specific parts of the beef. Only Korean beef is served, and it comes with a combination of ``chadolbaegi'' (beef brisket), ``satae'' (beef shank) and ``naepoe'' (intestine). Moreover, you can also purchase an egg for 300 won at the counter and add it in your stew. Since we weren't feeling very hungry, we ordered the regular-sized gomtang.
It was served within minutes in a brass bowl, making it even more appetizing. Salt, pepper, and fresh green onions are on each table to suit your taste. However, the stew already had a deep and hearty flavor on its own, so there wasn't much need for additional saltiness.
Underneath a layer of the beef slices hides a surprisingly heaping amount of rice. If you are not satisfied with the amount of beef in your stew, you may order more slices of beef. If you ask for ``kkakguk,'' the server will bring a kettle filled with radish cube kimchi sauce and pour some into the stew. This spicy addition will eliminate the greasy taste. However, one also has the option of having the kimchi separately, as each customer gets his or hew own place.
It seems that Hadongkwan's traditional exterior rightfully reflects the food that it serves. With 60 years of experience, the restaurant offers customers gomtang that tastes just like grandma's slow-cooked food.
To get to Hadongkwan, walk straight from Euljiro 1-ga Station exit no. 5, turn right at Korean Exchange Bank and walk a few meters. It is on your left. The restaurant is open from 7a.m. to 4:30 p.m. and closed every first and third Sunday of the month. For more information, call 02) 776-5656.
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Korea Times intern Hwang Sung-hee contributed to this article.