Ye Hwan Mixes East, West
By Kwaak Jeyup
One might miss this restaurant if you drive too fast. But if you had spotted it, you could not have passed by its quirky, colorful exterior with miniature furniture and fresh flowers without climbing the wooden steps to take a closer look.
Ye Hwan, a petite six-table joint established six years ago, has since become a cherished spot among the gastronomes of Seoul. The fame unmistakably owes to the restaurant's distinct cuisine, a mix of East and West that defies categorization.
Through these years, it has stayed true to its roots and has not grown in size or established branches elsewhere. Standing towards the summit of Gyeonglidangil, better known as Veggie Hill among expatriate Seoulites, the restaurant has still one main weapon in its arsenal, its chef Bae Ye-whan, after whom the restaurant was named.
Her distinct personal taste gives modern accents to classic fare, reflected on the menu. The grilled squid and green salad with oriental dressing (15,000 won) is a delightful starter that blends sweet, sour, and savory. It is also a treat to the eyes, betraying its name and instead offering different colored bean sprouts, red cabbage, tomatoes and the aforementioned greens. Finally, the dish is a buffet of textures, another pleasure to be relished in the small time frame given until the main course is served.
Other recommended starters include scallops with grapefruit sauce (18,000 won), grilled vegetables, salami and feta cheese with Italian dressing (15,000 won). There is also onion soup (7,000 won) and mushroom soup (6,000 won).
While the pasta and risotto offerings are pleasures of their own, especially the spicy shrimp risotto (16,000 won) a crowd-pleaser among locals, the steaks ought to make a customer feel guilty for enjoying them alone. Ordering the grilled tenderloin with brown mango sauce (35,000 won) mistakenly without specifying how well it should be done was serendipitous. Cooked to the point of perfection between medium and medium-rare, the beef produced in Korea had all the necessary elements: the juice, the texture, the elasticity, and the beautiful rosy hue. If one's preference is for pork, the recommended dish is the grilled pork neck with anchovies, capers, and olives (26,000 won). Fish is also available.
For those craving dessert, the house chocolate cake (5,000 won) is another customer-favorite. Then, over a cup of coffee, one can take in the distinct interior with fresh-cut flowers, French furniture and vividly-colored embellishments ― once again, a mix of classic and Bae's personal taste.
Be sure to reserve to avoid disappointment. Call (02)798-4752.