Tree-Lined Street
Savor, Shop & Stroll in Style
By Lee Hyo-won
Staff Reporter
Seoul is no longer envious of Soho in New York City or the Marais in Paris. Lined with tall, green ginkgo trees and quirky little shops with an attitude, Garosu-gil (Tree-Lined Street) thrives with flair.
This tiny strip of Sinsa-dong is the perfect place to window shop during the day and sip wine coolers after the sun goes down. The hotspot is thoroughly modern and chic, without the glitziness of Cheongdam-dong. Below is a selective guide to places where you can savor 'n' sip, see 'n' spend in style!
Alley Antique Cafe:
Relive the splendor of a 19th century French salon while enjoying Dallmayr espresso (served in the German royal court, 7,000 won) with cheesecake (4,000 won). If you fancy the armchair you're sitting in, you can strike a deal with the owner -- the cafe doubles as an antique furniture store. A friendly middle-aged couple runs the place, and the wife visits France every two months to import antiques. The place also boasts a fine wine list of over 20 kinds from all over the world (French Chateau Talbot, 119,000 won; Chilean Santa Ema Merlot Reserve, 57,000 won). Open everyday, 10:30 a.m.~11 p.m. (02) 736-7775.
Second Atom:
Newly open, the shop offers retro styles in full rainbow tones. Ruby-colored enamel belt, 28,000. Rainbow-striped umbrella, 59,000 won. Leopard-print camisole and underwear set, 48,000 won. (02) 542-5051.
Ramen Guru:
This modest place bowls out steaming Japanese ramen in a snap (miso, shio or salt, shoyu or soy sauce, and spicy flavors, all 8,000 won). Noodles are topped with chashou, or a slice of fatty pork. Look up to see ramen bowl lampshades hanging down from the ceiling. Open 12~9 p.m. (break between 2:30~3:30 p.m.). Closed Sundays. (02) 544-1987.
French Sole:
Beware, shoe-lovers. Classic ballet flats by Jane Winkworth come in all sorts of sugary shades and fun fabrics: pastel satins, leopard-print furs and glittery metallic. Though the price is not so pretty, it's hard to fall out of love with these lovely shoes. (02) 549-3691.
Buccella:
Taste the best of Paris in one bite. Buccella, meaning small mouth in Latin, pertains to small bites of bread given out to the poor. And so, plentiful amounts of savory, healthy food are offered at relatively low prices. All ingredients are natural and carefully chosen (real vanilla beans are used!). Cold and hot sandwiches (Pastrami, Taco Chicken, Salmon, etc.) are tasty (6,000~7,000 won). Salads also make good meals (7,000~8,000 won). All served with the place's signature bread, a soft, chewy cross between ciabatta and pita breads.
The various tarts and cakes are to die for (the Korean chef's diploma from the famed Cordon Bleu hangs proudly on the wall). He's there every morning to make the bread. Home roasted coffee (Americano 4,000 won) and rare teas (the Mariage freres, 7,000 won) are offered with unlimited refills. The cozy interior is a mixture of a rustic Provencal bistro, a chic New York diner and an easy Parisian cafe. Open 9~1 a.m. (sandwiches available beginning 11:30 a.m.). Closed Sundays. (02) 517-7339.
Veryjin:
All imported from European countries like Belgium, colorful and aromatic candles in all sorts of shapes and sizes are available, from finely crafted angels and bunnies to large, post-like wax pieces. Small candles cost 20,000 won and up, while large interior decorative pieces are about 200,000 won. Open 12~9 p.m. Closed Sundays. (02) 546-1555.
Cafe Byul:
Befitting its name (`Byul' means star in Korean), the cafe is star-studded from lamps to windows and is furnished with a tasteful mix and match of wood, leather and metal. Vintage and antique trinkets are also fun to look at. Try the chocolate waffles, made with dark chocolate and topped with ice cream and fruit. The waffle brunch includes a salad (10,000 won). Drinks are a bit high-priced (6,000 won~11,000 won) but a diverse assortment is available, including Moroccan mint tea. Open Mon.~Sat. 10 a.m.~midnight. (02) 548-7779.
Parking:
The only place you can easily find parking space; 3,000 won for the first 30 minutes and 1,000 won for each additional 15 minutes. Open everyday 8 a.m.~ 11:30 p.m.
``Luxury for Less'':
A mixture of high-end brand knockoffs and American outlet-bound items are available at some stores in Garosu-gil through rather mysterious channels. This season's Marc Jacobs summer dresses, around 90,000 won and rare Stella McCartney for H&M T-shirts, 28,000 won.
Vivien Bis:
Offers dressier styles and more sizes. Packed on weekends, beware ladies. Open everyday 11 a.m.~9:30 p.m. (02)3443-2768.
Inside:
Carries some of the same items as Vivien Bis at a cheaper price (Celine lace top and cardigan set, 65,000 won). More casual in selection. Open everyday 12:30~9:30 p.m. (02) 543-4667.
Bookbinders Design:
Forget that office supplies are boring, and organize with style. Notebooks, binders and storage boxes come in a multitude of flashy colors. Though expensive (notebooks cost 20,000 won and up), the 80-year-old Swedish brand's cloth-bound or paper-covered products are all dyed naturally. Open everyday 11 a.m.~9 p.m. (02) 546-9500.
Grande:
Funny name for a tiny place that barely fits 20 people. Sitting in the bright blue and yellow place, you can almost smell the Mediterranean. Try one of the 12 kinds of tea (rose petal, 7,000 won) with raspberry or apple tart (5,000 won).
Meals also available (around 15,000 won and up): lunch du jour (12~1:30 p.m.), and the dinner menu of the month includes a variation of salads and pastas. When the sun goes down, the place transforms into a wine bar with a unique selection, like Greek Kretikoe, 40,000 won. House wine, 8,000 won. Open Mon.~Sat. (& sometimes on Sun.), 11~1 a.m. (02) 548-8858.
Bloom & Goute:
A tasteful marriage of fanciful sweets and fresh flowers. The cozy, lull ambience sets the mood to make quiet conversation over cake (try the crepe, 4,800 won) with coffee (5,000 won). Pick up a colorful bouquet of flowers (30,000 won and up). Open 10:30 a.m.~10:50 p.m., Sun. 12~10:50 p.m. (02) 545-6659.
Grandmother:
The grand entrance to this wine bar is hard to miss, and it'll feel like stepping into a world far away from home. Open everyday, 6:30 p.m.~2 a.m. or 3 a.m. on Fridays. (02) 544-7466.
Mogool:
If you fancy hats, this shop is a must. Unisex hats come in all sorts of unique shapes and sizes. Cartoon illustrated plastic visors to knit crochet caps, price tags read 30,000 won and up. (02) 3445-6264. www.mogool.co.kr.
Traditional Tea:
Unassuming and hidden (even lacking a store sign), the quaint teashop is a world apart from its flashy and modern neighboring stores. ``An oasis of calm, where one can enjoy truly sublime, masterfully crafted tea,'' reads a message left by a British gentleman involved in haute cuisine. Here, tea is not ordered but prescribed (all 7,000 won except red ginseng, 15,000 won). Three types of tea are available: oriental medicinal teas, or remedies rather, for colds, aches, etc.; green teas; and fruity teas (try omija, or schisandra fruit). Most teas can be served both hot and cold. Open sporadically, but usually in the evening. Contact tea guru Yoo Han-soo at 011-720-2812.
Quai 19:
Chinese cuisine (Korean style) with a modern edge is served in a hot pink interior. Appetizers 5,000~20,000 won. Stir-fried noodles with Chinese bean sauce, 5,000 won. Meat/seafood dishes, 14,000~30,000 won (shark's fin, 60,000 won). Point of interest: K-pop star Psy's mother runs the place. Open everyday 11:30 a.m.~10:00 p.m. (02) 511-8119.
Huhjame:
Run by two sisters, one based here in Seoul and the other in New York, the store carries American outlet-bound clothes and accessories from past seasons as well as the latest trends straight from the Big Apple. Only one or two of each item are brought in. Silk shirt by Richard Lim, 89,000 won (probably gone by the time you're reading this). Open Mon.~Fri. 11 a.m.~6 p.m., Sat. 11 a.m.~1 p.m. Closed Sundays. www.huhjame.co.kr
Kaffee Strasse:
Meaning `coffee street' in German, the bright and spacious coffee place serves fresh Nespresso (3,800 won) from an espresso machine produced by Nestle. You can choose among 12 colorful capsules filled with ground coffee beans. Open 8~2 a.m., Sun. & holidays 10~1 a.m. (02) 512-7776.
La Kazbah:
Perfect for a round of drinks with a group of friends. The decor is exotic: rich-hued fabrics adorning the ceiling evoke Indian sahris (dresses) and vibrant Moroccan hookahs (glass pipes) line the walls. A live DJ and open bar all fit in this cozy place. Cocktails 10,000 won; beers 6,000~9,000 won; finger foods (salads and cheese/fruit plates) 20,000~30,000 won. Open everyday 5 p.m.~3 to 4 a.m. (02) 3448-6866.
School Food:
Reminisce the good old school days while enjoying street-stand classics in a comfortable cafe-like space. Try bacon garlic or squid ink rolls (6,000 won) and ddeoksooni (ddeokbokki or spicy rice cakes, 6,000 won). Open everyday, 11 a.m.~11 p.m. (02) 511-7127. Delivery orders available 24 hours a day at (02) 1588-1508.
