As president eyes return, Cheong Wa Dae hosts what may be its last tourists

When Ryu Si-won, a retired man in his 60s, learned on Wednesday that Lee Jae-myung had been elected president, his first thought was to visit Cheong Wa Dae — the former presidential compound that housed 12 leaders over the past 74 years.

Cheong Wa Dae is commonly known in English as the Blue House in a nod to its distinctive tiled roof. Lee has said he plans to return the presidential office there.

“I wasn’t planning to come here today,” Ryu told The Korea Times. "But after Lee was elected, I checked yesterday to see if on-site registration was possible and came. I figured this might be my last chance to see it.”

He recalled that in his younger days, he had only made it as far as the front gate — never once stepping inside until now.

“Seeing it in person, it feels modest. You can really see the influence of traditional Korean hanok architecture,” Ryu said. “I’m not sure if it’s possible to do both at the same time, but I hope the president returns here and that it still remains open to the public.”

On Thursday, Cheong Wa Dae bustled with tourists — many, like Ryu, seizing what might be their last chance to see the historic site up close.

Located in central Seoul, the site where Cheong Wa Dae stands has undergone numerous transformations before being opened to the public.

Originally part of Gyeongbok Palace, the grounds once housed Joseon Dynasty kings. During the 1910–1945 Japanese colonial era, it became the residence of the Japanese governor-general. After Korea’s liberation in 1945, it was used as the residence of the U.S. military governor.

In 1948, with the founding of the Republic of Korea, the property was handed over to the new government. President Syngman Rhee and his wife moved in, marking the beginning of Cheong Wa Dae’s role as the center of modern state affairs.

In 2022, former President Yoon Suk Yeol opted not to use the Cheong Wa Dae compound, arguing that its secluded location hindered communication with both the public and his aides. He criticized it as a symbol of imperial-style presidential power and relocated the presidential office to the Ministry of National Defense compound in Yongsan. Since then, Cheong Wa Dae has been open to the public, attracting more than 7 million visitors.

Last month, the new president said in a YouTube interview that he would return to Cheong Wa Dae if elected, describing it as the ideal location for the presidential office because of its historical, symbolic and cultural significance.

“There’s really no reason not to use it,” Lee said.

No detailed timeline has been announced for Lee’s move to Cheong Wa Dae, as security and communications systems are still undergoing inspections — a process expected to take time. In the meantime, tourist visits are continuing as usual, although online reservations for June are nearly fully booked.

Visitors who reserve a time slot online receive a barcode via messaging app. Upon arrival, they scan the code and pass through an airport-style X-ray screening of their belongings before entering the premises.

All visitors interviewed by The Korea Times that day said they had come because they believed Cheong Wa Dae would close to the public once the president moves back in. Many shared their reflections on the historic compound.

When asked how he felt seeing it for the first time, 23-year-old student Choi In-ho replied: “This is what power feels like.”

Referring to Yoon’s declaration of martial law while in office at Yongsan, Choi said, “Considering what happened there, it would be much better for the president to leave that place and return here.”

But not everyone agreed.

Paulo, a Korean businessman in his 60s who asked to be identified by the name he uses in Brazil, said the compound felt too vast for a president to work efficiently. “Everything is too spread out," he said.

Tours of Cheong Wa Dae typically last about an hour. Most visitors quickly notice how the buildings blend with the surrounding greenery, creating a serene atmosphere.

Yet beneath that tranquility is an undercurrent of tension, as the complex has served for more than seven decades as Korea’s highest decision-making center, according to Lee Jae-jong, a former administrative official under President Moon Jae-in.

“Even after hours, you’re always thinking about work there,” Lee said. “The workload is intense, but there’s a strong culture of mutual consideration among the staff.”

Lim Se-eun, a former deputy spokesperson at Cheong Wa Dae, described the compound as grand but inconvenient.

“It’s historic and symbolic, but most of the facilities are outdated because there haven’t been major renovations,” Lim said. “The buildings for presidential aides was only three or four stories tall, and it didn’t even have an elevator. They had to install one on the outside.”

For chef Chun Sang-hyun, who cooked for Korea's presidents for over two decades, the place was where he spent the prime of his youth.

“I spent most of my days there, taking pride in being responsible for the president and first lady's three daily meals. It was an honorable and fulfilling time,” Chun told The Korea Times.

Serving meals to the nation’s leader demanded meticulous care — even down to the kimchi.

“Even kimchi has to be customized. Taste preferences differ by region — for example, between Jeolla and Gyeongsang Province — so we had to adjust the type of fermented seafood used in the dish accordingly.”

He explained that each president had distinct food preferences shaped by their regional roots. After a new president took office, he consulted with the first lady, aides and housekeepers to understand the president’s likes and dislikes — including their tolerance for salty, spicy, sour or sweet flavors. It typically took about three months for him to adjust.

On Monday, presidential spokesperson Kang Yu-jung told reporters that a task force is working on a plan for Lee’s return to Cheong Wa Dae, with discussions underway on the timeline and future public access.

Many of the day’s visitors to what was once — and soon will be again — the country’s presidential compound, shared hopes for a better nation.

Asked what kind of country he hopes to see with the new president returning to Cheong Wa Dae, Jeon Min-soo, a 60-year-old office worker, replied, “I just hope the president keeps his word.”

“Lee said he’d build a government that serves the people,” Jeon said. “Now that he’s coming here, I hope he follows through.”