Yeosu, a city of quiet beauty

A night view of the illuminated Dolsan Bridge

By Kim Bo-eun

Yeosu has had its heyday, people say. It reveled in its moment of glory during “Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea,” an international exposition that attracted some 8 million visitors over its three-month run, and is now no more than a southern port city with a vast but empty complex of expo halls.

Indeed, Yeosu is not like Jeonju, a fellow city in Jeolla Province that has become a teeming tourist hotspot. But undisturbed, the city is yet more appealing. Once you step off the train and walk out of the Yeosu Expo Station, you will encounter a quiet mass of futuristic-looking buildings with the backdrop of the peninsula’s southern sea.

Yeosu is not a flashy, exciting sort of tourist hub, but will provide a quiet, restoring getaway for tired city dwellers.

A view of Odongdo and the seawall leading to it from the mainland

A two-day guide

For a refreshing walk, pay a visit to Odongdo, a tiny island right off Yeosu’s east coast. A seawall links the short distance between the mainland and island, which you can cross either by foot or on a mini train. A recommendable option is to walk there and take the train back. Feel the breeze in your hair as you stroll along, enjoying the seascape. A trip up and down the camellia tree-packed Odongdo will provide numerous remarkable views of surrounding islands and fascinating rock formations. The train ride back rattles a little and is painfully slow but will provide some rest for your tired feet.

A sparkling night view of the city of Yeosu

During your stay, try the regional specialty Seodae Hoe – a spicy mixture of thin slices of halibut, makgeolli vinegar and vegetables. Mix the hoe with a bowl of rice sprinkled with laver, add half a spoonful of sesame oil and you get a flavorful and filling meal. While there are a host of places that offer the dish, Samhakzip in Jonghwa-dong is among the most noted.

After the sun sets, you might want to drop by the expo complex to see the Big-O show, a 50-minute performance of lights, music and water. Feel the heat of flames as they shoot out and get showered with water as the wind blows. Although it gets a tad juvenile towards the end, the show can provide some entertainment. It runs through Nov. 2.

Before heading back to your room, walk over to the adjacent Skytower for a glittering night view of the city. On the top floor of the 67-meter tower is a cafe with a small balcony that you should head out to for a proper view. Take a moment to watch the domes topping the expo complex as they change colors. Also, do not miss the Expo Digital Gallery on your way out from the complex. The colossal ceiling of the central building provides a colorful, animated screen of life under the sea – a signature feature of the Yeosu Expo.

A view of the tiled roofs of Odongjae's hanok (Korean traditional house) units and Yeosu's sea from the hanok hotel's lobby building

Odongjae is a beautiful cluster of hanoks (Korean traditional house). Built in 2012 to accommodate guests for the expo, the hotel gives off a traditional ambience while providing necessities for the modern-day person, from wi-fi to air conditioning. While some of the rooms offer beds and others mattresses, for a truly Korean experience, opt for a room where you can sleep on the floor. Also, if available, get a room with a traditional balcony where you can lie and rest as a gentle breeze dances by.

Odongjae's lobby building

When you check in and out at the lobby building on the top of the hill Odongjae is perched on, spend some time at the little pavilion at the yard and take in some fresh air and the view of ships floating afar. You can also spot Odongdo and the Skytower there. Odongjae’s hansikdang, which offers decent traditional fare at reasonable rates, is also worth a try.

Before boarding on the train going back, you can idle some hours at the Yeosu Expo Memorial Hall where you can get a roundup of the 2012 exposition as well as the aquarium for a view of 280 species of marine life.

The largest room occupying a single hanok unit at Odongjae

Transportation guide

Seodae Hoe, a regional specialty of halibut, makgeoolli vinegar and vegetables

For those going to Yeosu from Seoul, take the Honam line KTX departing from Yongsan Station to Yeosu Expo Station. The trip takes a little over three-and-a-half hours.

A room with a mattress and bedding at Odongjae