By Robert Neff
During the late 19th century it was considered a sign of good prosperity to be heavy. The heavier one was the more likely he or she had money. Judging from the size of many of the early Western visitors to Korea, it is easy to imagine that the average Korean was convinced all of these foreigners were filthy rich.
Some of the earliest Western visitors to Seoul were American naval officers. In March 1883, four crew members of the U.S.S. Juniata, an American warship, set out for Seoul from the port city of Jemulpo. Three of the men elected to travel on foot and by the notorious ornery Korean ponies.
But the largest and heaviest member, Dr. George W. Woods, who had not ridden a horse in a great many years, declared that he would not arrive in Seoul “stiffened up like a cripple” from an agonizing 42-km ride. So instead, he chose a rickety old Korean chair.
In his diary he wrote: “My chair was an ordinary dining chair in shape with a foot rest, and boxed in below. Two long poles were attached for carrying it, and the whole painted a laquorious black. It was very old and rickety, and prophesied misfortune in all sorts of patching and mending, and warning creaks at every step. It was carried by the other two every hour, those who were not bearing, walking on either side, carrying a heavy stick which they could put under the chair every three minutes and lift together to ease the shoulder of those within the shafts from the pressure of the rope, which was arranged like a yoke, to suspend the chair, front and rear.”
But carrying the heavy American naval officer was no easy matter. The “grunting and groaning” coolies, despite the coolness of the late March weather and being stripped to the waist, were soon covered in sweat. Unable to endure Woods’ weight any longer, they suggested that he switch places with pony-mounted Mr. Mitchell who weighed only about 45 kgs. Woods reluctantly acquiesced and mounted the somewhat subdued and “diminutive” Korean pony.
With their much lighter passenger the coolies were able to make good time and soon covered 16 kms. Mr. Mitchell, however, did not enjoy the rocking motion of the chair and soon begged to change back to his pony.
To the disgust of the coolies, Woods resumed his seat, but they did not have to endure for very long before the chair, with a snap and a crash, broke in half. Woods was forced to ride to Seoul on the back of one of the pack ponies.
Woods wasn’t the only Westerner stranded because of his weight. About a year later, a portly British missionary was frustrated when his chair-bearers refused to carry him past the Jemulpo city limits. At first they protested that he had not honored his side of the bargain by paying them half of their transport fee in advance but later, after being badgered for the truth, they reluctantly admitted they did not want to carry the heavy foreigner.
Not all of the “heavy” foreigners left Korea in the same state. When young Henry Appenzeller, an American missionary, arrived in Korea in 1885, he weighed about 90.7 kgs and, at just under six feet, towered over his Korean hosts. But living in Korea took its toll. By 1900 Appenzeller was a mere shadow of his youth. Bent over and gray, he weighed only 59.4 kgs — a testament of the wealth of youth and health that he had sacrificed in Korea.
Robert Neff is a contributiong writer for The Korea Times.