Feast for the five senses at Samcheonggak

By Lee Hyo-won

One need not to be a 16th-century Joseon gent to enjoy live performances by beautiful musicians over a refined meal.

Samcheonggak in Seoul was deliciously notorious as a ’70s hotspot for “gisaeng” or courtesan artists. They continued a tradition dating back to the Joseon Kingdom (1392-1910), serving drinks and playing music while powerful men designed political conspiracies.

The venue has since been transformed into one of the city’s most elegant cultural complexes, where visitors can enjoy tea, full-course meals, concerts and even hold wedding ceremonies in a traditional setting, though with a 21st-century twist.

To cater to fans, Samcheonggak will offer an upgraded version of its much-loved premium lunch concert. Beginning March 1, visitors can indulge in the event dubbed “Jami,” which not only means “good nutritious food” in Chinese characters but also “fun” in the Jeju dialect. Thus the luncheon is not only delectable to the palate but aurally and visually exciting as well.

They say bread is better than the songs of birds, or in this case, some tastefully served “hansik” (Korean cuisine). The 90-minute program features a seven-course meal. “Galbijjim” (braised short ribs) is served as the main meal on Mondays while “bulgogi deopbap” (rice topped with grilled marinated beef) is offered on Wednesdays. Those wishing for something more green can opt for “sanche bibimbap” (mixed wild herb and vegetable rice) on Tuesdays.

This reporter tried the latter menu. The meal opened with an array of appetizers, including porridge and water-based kimchi, salad, “japchae” (stir fried vermicelli) and sauteed shrimp. Each dish was artfully presented and had a refined spin on homemade variations.

The wild spring herbs gave the conventional bibimbap a lighter and more refreshing aftertaste. Though this omnivore had no problem with the nutty salad dressing or the beef topping in the bibimbap, vegetarians and vegans as well as those with allergies should inform the staff, either when you make reservations or upon arrival.

Also to feast on was a variety of traditional folk and court performances as well as the modern spinoffs on offer. Women dressed in exquisite “hanbok” (traditional costume) graced the stage in the banquet hall, each proudly presenting an instrument.

These were none other than the nine members of, not Girls’ Generation, but Cheongarang — a “gugak” (traditional instrument) band whose name means “green as the palp of a silkworm butterfly,” a metaphor for a beautiful woman.

Comprised of percussion, string and wind gugak instruments, Cheongarang offers a medley of folk songs such as “Baetnorae,” a shamanist ritual piece native to the Gyeonggi region, and “Arirang,” Korea’s representative love song with a modern spin.

The band also ventures into crossover music, for gugak renditions of famous pop songs such as “Yesterday,” “Dancing Queen” and “Eres Tu.” Ultimately, the performance is not complete without a taste of “pansori” or Korean opera. Guests can call Samcheonggak in advance to make song requests.

Admission to Samcheonggak’s premium lunch concert “Jami” costs 50,000 won. The program is offered from 12:00 to 1:30 p.m. on Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

For more information, call (02) 740-3208 or visit www.samcheonggak.or.kr (the website is in Korean, but English and Japanese brochures can be downloaded).