Traditional vs modern hanbok: Can they coexist?

Tourists from Indonesia pose at Gyeongbok Palace in Seoul wearing hanbok, Wednesday. Korea Times photo by Jeon Yu-jin

On the afternoon of June 5, the area near Gyeongbok Palace in Seoul was awash with the vibrant colors of "hanbok," Korea’s traditional attire.

Tourists from around the world donned the traditional garb embroidered with golden thread, taking photos against the backdrop of the grand palace that is situated in the heart of the modern metropolis.

Among the array of traditional hanbok, featuring neatly arranged jeogori (jackets) and skirts, there were also numerous instances of "fusion hanbok," incorporating elements from various cultures and unique designs, such as ribbons tied at the waist or veils draped over the head.

Many foreign visitiors to the palace area wore hanbok in their own unique style, such as pairing skirts with jeans or sporting dreadlocks.

Dian, 30, from Indonesia epitomized this multicultural fashion by adorning a traditional Korean hair accessory over her hijab, complemented with black sunglasses.

Visiting Seoul with her colleagues, she expressed her joy, saying, "I always wanted to try on hanbok after watching Korean dramas, and it’s even more beautiful than I imagined."

The influence of K-pop and K-dramas has significantly increased the number of foreign tourists seeking a hanbok-wearing experience near Korea’s palaces. Fusion hanbok, reflecting the diverse backgrounds of these visitors, is becoming more popular.

A Chinese tourist wearing hanbok tours Gyeongbok Palace, Wednesday. Korea Times photo by Jeon Yu-jin

Is hanbok losing its authenticity?

However, there is criticism from some quarters that hanbok is losing its identity. Concerns over cultural appropriation have prompted authorities to clarify the traditional concept of hanbok, sparking a debate over unnecessary intervention.

The controversy was ignited by a statement from Choi Eung-chon, head of the Cultural Heritage Administration (CHA), on May 17.

"Many tourists visiting Gyeongbok Palace wear hanbok, but often it’s unrecognizable. The Cultural Heritage Administration needs to take the lead in rectifying the authentic concept of hanbok," Choi said.

He hinted at revising the policy that allows free palace entry for those wearing hanbok, suggesting that fusion hanbok might be excluded from this initiative.

According to the CHA, last year, 1.6 million people entered the four major palaces and Jongmyo Shrine wearing hanbok.

Some welcome Choi’s remarks as an effort toward cultural preservation. An employee at Gyeongbok Palace noted, "Sometimes I see tourists wearing the hat of a Chinese emperor," stressing the importance of maintaining the traditional form of hanbok.

Seo Kyoung-duk, a professor at Sungshin Women’s University and a Korean culture promoter, also supported this view, saying, "There is increasing cultural appropriation with some claiming hanbok originates from China’s Hanfu. We need to preserve our tradition."

Son Yu-na, 22, right, and her friend pose in front of a shop near Gyeongbok Palace, Wednesday. Korea Times photo by Jeon Yu-jin

Clothing evolves with times

Conversely, many argue that clothing naturally evolves with time, and hanbok should also embrace change.

Son Yu-na, 22, who visited Gyeongbok Palace with a friend while wearing a bright sky-blue hanbok, said, "I chose a hanbok with lace because it looked pretty. Short skirts might be problematic, but a little change can actually help promote hanbok."

A 58-year old visitor surnamed Park said, "Countries like Hong Kong and Taiwan modernize their traditional clothes. It's natural for clothing to evolve with the times."

Palace management also expressed concerns that stricter entry criteria could lead to significant conflicts.

Currently, traditional hanbok and modernized hanbok are both recognized when tourists are looking to gain free entry into places like Gyeongbok alace, as long as the outfit includes a jeogori with a fastening collar and a skirt or pants.

One palace entry manager said, "It's already challenging to decide how far to extend free entry. Disputes with tourists over what qualifies as traditional hanbok can become heated."

Gi In-sook, 65, who runs a hanbok rental business near Gyeongbok Palace, showcases traditional hanbok in her store, Wednesday. Korea Times photo by Jeon Yu-jin

Excessive guidelines worrisome

Hanbok rental businesses worry about the impact of government regulations.

Gi In-sook, 65, who has been in the hanbok business near Gyeongbok Palace for over 15 years, said, "Even customers over 60 prefer fancy hanbok. Most shops offer both traditional and fusion hanbok, but customers choose the fusion styles."

Another shop owner surnamed Seong, 52, said, "The standard for 'nationality-less hanbok' is ambiguous. Instead of outright bans, proper support and guidelines should come first."

Experts advocate for defining proper traditional hanbok standards while respecting individual choices.

Kim Kyung-mi, head of Hanttam, a hanbok culture research institute, said, "We should develop hanbok fashion while maintaining basic principles like having a collar and ties hidden under the skirt."

Choi Eun-ju, a professor of fashion design at Youngsan University, said, "Various forms of hanbok help spread Korean culture. While providing proper wearing guidelines is good, excessive regulation by the government is not desirable."

This article from the Hankook Ilbo, sister publication of The Korea times, is translated by generative AI and edited by staff of The Korea Times.