Trendy Seongsu comes to life as cultural hub

Veranda Industrial/ Korea Times photo by Rachel Lee

By Rachel Lee

Social and cultural change in Korea occurs at an extremely rapid pace.

Due to this, people have always kept up with the latest trends in all aspects of life, including food, fashion, beauty and nightlife. One of the most common questions asked of acquaintances and friends is: “What’s the coolest spot to hang out right now?”

The main focus was on Gangnam, south of the Han River, but now attention has moved to the north, mainly Itaewon and Hannam. Now Seongsu in Seongdong, in eastern Seoul, a once-neglected neighborhood, is buzzing with small shops and ateliers.

The area was a designated industrial zone in the 1960s. Plating and wig factories thrived in that decade and into the next. Shoe and print manufacturers gathered around the town in the 1990s. But the industry started to lose competitiveness in the 2000s, which led to an exodus of companies. A few years later, small independent businesses started to move in, which has revived the area.

Seongsu Handmade Shoes

From SS

In late 1960s, local manufacturer Kemgang Shoes set up in the area and factories of subcontractors followed suit.

After the foreign currency crisis in 1997, the company’s production headquarters moved to Bupyeong in Incheon, followed by other shoe-industry businesses that also moved to different locations.

Shoe manufacturers initially gathered in Seongsu because the shoemaker's head office was in that area and the factories of Esquire and Elkanto were also nearby.

In the 1970s, the Ministry of Commerce and Industry held an exhibition featuring the world’s highest-quality goods to encourage artisans to create products of similar standards. It also aimed to nurture the shoe and sewing industry as exporters. Brands including Eiffel, Shinil and Alps began to grow.

In 2013, the Seoul Metropolitan Government set up retailer From SS on Seongsu Handmade Shoe Street, close to Seongsu Station exit 1. as part of its plan to revitalize the neighborhood. The country’s renowned shoe craftsmen opened shops and were followed by many other designers and retailers.

“I moved here about 15 years ago from Myeondong, which was the centre of Korean finance and economy back in the 1960s,” Yoo Hong-sik, the country’s first shoe craftsman, said. “The shoe industry was close to dying until this retailer was built by the government to revitalize the area.”

Yoo, 66, has been in the industry for more than 55 years and specializes in men’s shoes that sell for up to 1.8 million won a pair.

“This shop keeps the industry going and alive,” he said. “Otherwise, it would have disappeared already.”

The Seongdong Small & Medium Business Centre provides free handmade shoemaking classes twice a year for those wishing to build a career in this field. The eight-month course is offered to 15 students who will learn all the processes, including measuring feet size, preparing templates and patterns and cutting leather parts to match the patterns.

Ideal spot for artists

Veranda Industrial

A five-minute walk from station exit 3, a rather shabby-looking old atelier, Veranda Industrial, arouses curiosity. Artist Kim Jung-han’s studio, which opened two years ago, is also a popular location for photo shoots.

“We also rent out this place to magazines, television producers and companies for photo shoots, filming, presentations and whatnot,” Kim Ha-won, a manager, said.

Next to the atelier is a workshop called Bobbostore, a designer’s co-operative, best known for its flea market.

The store has 17 designers and not only sells goods, but holds exhibitions, performances and workshops, providing opportunities for consumers to experience something unique.

Another must-visit place in Seongsu is Daelim Storage, a former rice mill, now known as one of the country’s trendiest spots despite its old-fashioned look.

British fashion house Burberry once held its Art of the Trench launch at the venue, which helped draw the attention of the media, celebrities and the public.

People say Daelim Storage’s allure comes from its old, yet sophisticated, look and feel that makes it special among party venues.

“I’ve heard of this place a lot of times recently so I came to look around,” said Park So-yeon, 28, a student. “I never knew this kind of place existed in Korea. I guess I’ve just been familiar with modern architecture.”

Tranquility in Seoul Forest

Seoul Soup Pie

For those wanting a break from the busy life, a visit to Seoul Forest, a park in Seongdong, is a must. It is a 10-minute walk from Seoul Forest station exit 4 and boasts many cafes and restaurants in every nook and corner of its rather quiet streets.

Bakery Bonanza only uses organic flour, so it has become a favorite place for the health conscious. Most of its products sell quickly, so it is wise to call before visiting.

“I come in the morning once a week all the way from Mullae for its healthy, tasty bread,” Lee Yu-won, 31, an office worker, said. “I’ve been to most of the famous bakeries in Seoul and I think this place is in the top three.”

For those who want a light lunch, Seoul Soup Pie is the one. Pies and soups are available for between 3,000 and 7,000 won. It also has red beet and kale juice. All food is available for take-away.