Cold slurp of substance

Here’s the (hopefully) definitive list of Seoul’s best naengmyeon places

By Kim Young-jin

We invite you to chime in with your own favorite spots, especially readers outside Seoul. To join the debate, drop us an email at ktculture@gmail.com or send us a message on our Facebook page. Your comments could appear in print. ― Ed.

All work, no noodle makes summer dull

Near the end of lunch hour, a long line of customers waits outside Pyeong Rae Ok in Chungmuro, downtown Seoul. For most of them, the prize for their patience is a bowl of cold noodles called “naengmyeon,” the restaurant’s specialty.

The crowd gathers despite the drizzle that has provided respite from an early summer heat streak. Inside, steel chopsticks clank on steel bowls. Many patrons enjoy the classic “mul” naengmyeon ― noodles in a broth so cold, it actually contains slush; others, “bibim” naengmyeon, which is mixed with a fiery red sauce.

A reporter asks if he might photograph a bowl of “chogae-tang” ― noodles, chicken and lettuce in cold broth ― but a server kindly rebuffs him. “Nothing we can possibly do for you right now!” she yells over her shoulder, carrying a bowl in each hand.

With the mercury on the rise (not to mention the possibility of power shortages this summer due to corruption in the nuclear sector) people in Korea are packing into naengmyeon joints to beat the heat. The noodles are talked about constantly but never go out of style. Debate is fierce over which restaurants have the best stuff.

Naengmyeon is believed to have been popularized in the northern part of the peninsula during the Joseon Kingdom (1392-1910). Historical records indicate that mul naengmyeon (cold noodles with broth) originated in Pyongyang, while bibim naengmyeon (mixable cold noodles) became popular in Hamheung, a city now in the North’s central region. Historians believe this may have been because the climate is favorable to growing buckwheat, the main ingredient in the noodles.

The 1950-53 Korean War and the turmoil leading up to it brought droves of northerners ― as well as naengmyeon to the South.

“A lot of traders came down and congregated near Chyeongye stream and Mt. Nam (in Seoul), near the Chungmuro and Eulji areas,” Lee So-young, a researcher with the Institute of Korean Royal Cuisine. That is why many of the best known naengmyeon restaurants remain congregated in the area, she said.

Broth or sauce?

According to “Dongguksesigi,” a late Joseon era book, naengmyeon was originally enjoyed during the winter, because it could be chilled outside. At the time the main ingredients of mul naengmyeon ― then more popular than bibim naengmyeon ― included buckwheat noodles, radish kimchi, and boiled pork slices.

But with the development of refrigeration and the proliferation of the restaurant industry in the South, naengmyeon has come to be thought of as a summer food.

For mul naengmyeon, the noodles are boiled and then doused with either beef or chicken broth and flavored with the juices of “dongchimi,” a type of kimchi made with daikon radish. At its best, the soup is tangy but not overpowering.

The dish is commonly garnished with julienned cucumbers or Asian pears, thinly-sliced beef or pork, and half a hard-boiled egg, which is commonly believed to help with the digestive process.

Bibim naengmyeon, meanwhile, is made of potato or sweet potato starch, making it chewier than its soup-based cousin. The noodles are placed at the center of the bowl and dressed with a sauce made of “gochujang,” or red pepper paste. Slices of dongchimi, hard-boiled egg, and in some cases raw flatfish, are added as garnish.

Let the debate begin

Fans of the cold noodle love to debate which restaurant serves the best stuff. Here are our top seven spots in the capital, culminating with the top choice. The list pays homage to some of the older restaurants in the game, especially those that keep the final product simple, refreshing and subtle. We’ll stick to our picks, but new contenders are welcome. Just make sure the broth is cold.

1. Eulji Myeonok

Located amid a sea of hardware stores, Eulji Myeonok is quite nearly a hole-in-the-wall, because one walks through a small, non-descript entrance on the street and down a narrow alley before getting to the restaurant. Finding the place, however, is completely worthwhile.

It originates from a legendary restaurant in Uijeongbu, Gyeonggi Province, operated decades ago by transplants from North Korea. The son of owners opened up Eulji Myeonok while his cousin ran Pildong Myeonok. The broth here is made from a blend of beef brisket and pork broth, and the dish is garnished with scallions and finely sliced hot peppers. Naengmyeong dishes cost 9,000 won.

The restaurant is usually filled with older generation customers. This may be due to its location, or perhaps because these patrons have developed the finest, most discriminating taste. In our book, Eulji Myeonok is still the champ. Near exit No. 5 of Euljiro 3-ga station. 02-2266-7052

2. Pildong Myeonok

Located near Daehan Cinema, Pildong Myeonok serves both excellent Pyongyang- and Hamheung-style noodles (both 9,000 won). The mul naengmyeong broth has a beefy taste, but is subtle enough so that the taste of the handmade noodles is at the fore. The bibim naengmyeon with raw skate is well-known as are its North Korean-style steamed dumplings, which are stuffed with a nice balance of meat and tofu. Take exit 1 of Chungmuro station. 02-2266-2611.

3. Woo Lae Oak

Koreans, somewhat out of habit, will say this is the best naengmyeon place in the country due to its long history and wide reach (it has also entered the U.S. market). The noodle (11,000 won for the mul naengmyeon) here has a higher buckwheat content than most other places, which makes it softer. The restaurant also specialized in barbecued meat, and the beef that comes with the naengmyeon, as well as the savory broth, are the highlights. Accessible from Euljiro 4-ga station, exit 4. 02-2265-0151.

4. Eulmildae

Another divisive place with plenty of ardent fans as well as a good number of haters, in Yeomni-dong, Mapo-gu. The mul naengmyeon (10,000 won) broth here is subtle, flavored by vegetables, and is served super-cold. Those who find it bland add in spicy mustard or vinegar. Its boiled beef brisket is famous too. Near Daeheung Station, exit 2. 147-6, in Yeomni-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul. 02-717-1922

5. Pyeong Rae Ok

As its long lunch hour lines suggest, Pyeong Rae Ok is one of the oldest and most famous naengmyeon restaurants in Seoul. We were disappointed to hear they had dropped the use of pheasant meat in its noodles dishes. However, its chogae-tang (22,000 won, serves two) remains a fantastic draw.

This is served in large glass bowls ― intended to serve at least two people ― and contains buckwheat noodles, lettuce and a heaping of tender chicken in a chicken broth. Dishes here come with an excellent side dish made of spicy chicken. Accessible from Euljiro 3-ga station, exit 11. 02-2267-5892

6. Pyeongyang Myeonok

There are many restaurants with the same name, but this one, located near Dongguk University, is the best known. Now in its third generation of family ownership, its mul naengmyeon (10,ooo won) broth comes with a bit less of twang than other restaurants, allowing the flavor of the buckwheat noodles to shine.

“My late grandfather, a native of Haeju (in the North), used to love this place,” said a 35-year-old office worker in Seoul identified as Tony. “I guess it represents authentic North Korean style naengmyeon.” Near Dongdaemun History Culture Park station, exit 8. 02-2267-7784.

7. Hamheung Gombo Naengmyeon

One of the few restaurants that have shot to stardom on the strength of its bibim naengmyeon (7,000 won), Hamheung Gombo Naengmyeon (near Gwangjang Market) has won droves of ardent fans with its super-chewy noodles, which are high in sweet potato starch.

The place is also known for its sauce, which is spicy but also sweet; the sweetness has prompted much debate among noodle fanatics. Still, for the newcomer to bibim naengmyeon, this place is a great jumping off point. Accessible from Jongno 5-ga station, exit 12. It is located in the Seun Square building. For more information, call 02-2267-6922.