Tongyeong, Naples of the East

By Yun Suh-young

Tongyeong, the South Gyeongsang Province coastal city, has probably produced more famous artists than anywhere else in the country. Its breathtaking waterfront scenery hints at the source of their inspiration.

Tongyeong is the hometown of late composer Yun I-sang, who now has numerous musical festivals named after him, and author Park Kyung-ni, who left the iconic "Toji’’ (The Land), a 16-volume epic set in the turbulent history of Korea during the late 19th and early 20th century.

Lee Jung-seob, the acclaimed oil painter, also produced some of his most important work during his stay at Tongyeong during the 1950-53 Korean War.

But first and foremost, Tongyeong is a city of poets.

Kim Chun-su, considered by many as the definitive Korean poet of the 20th century, is credited for perhaps the most famous passage in Korean literature: ``Before I called its name, it was nothing but a gesture; When I called it by name, it came to me and became a flower.’’ (Flower, 1946).

Another Tongyeong native Yu Chi-hwan frequently portrayed the area ― its small islets, waters, "emerald’’ skies and sleepy streets ― in the dreamy poems he became famous for.

While Tongyeong, touted by Koreans as ``Naples of the East,’’ has no shortage of postcard spots, it takes a little while to fully embrace its beauty ― how its unique culture and heritage elegantly blends with the scenic environment. Spend a few days here and Yu’s words don’t seem so cloying anymore.

A view of the canal from Chungmugyo Bridge at dusk. / Korea Times photos by Yun Suh-young

Tracing the footsteps of artists

Obviously, following art provides a good way to explore Tongyeong, which is full of artists’ villages, galleries and festivals. The famous Tongyeong-born artists also have their own commemorative sites, whether they be their childhood homes or small museums dedicated to their work, which are convenient dots for travelers to connect.

A must-visit destination includes the hilly Seopirang Village, the hometown of novelist Park, which isn’t far from the Tongyeong Ferry Terminal. This is a unique village where the houses are located shoulder-to-shoulder along a narrow and rangy passage way, which is given off by its name ``pirang’’ the local word for "overhang on hill.’’

An interesting feature of the village is the Toyeong Iya-gil (Toyeong is a different pronunciation for Tongyeong and Iya is local speech for "sister’’), built around Park’s birth home that also includes monuments and museums of other Tongyeong-born artists such as Kim. Like the name of the path, it intends to be a "road to walk hand-in-hand chatting with your sister,’’ according to the explanation of local tourism officials.

On the opposite side of Seopirang Village lies Dongpirang Village, famous for its wall paintings and other outdoor artwork. The village was becoming deserted in the process of urbanization, but a move by civic groups to convert it into a hub for artwork has worked as prescribed as it’s now one of the town’s major tourist attractions.

Walk down the hills from the two villages and visitors will find themselves in Cheongma Street, which is dedicated to the poet Yu. The street includes the old post office Yu mentions in his most famous poem, ``Happiness.’’

The poem has its own, melodramatic background story. Yu fell in love with another poet, Lee Young-do, a widow. Torn between his emotions for her and his own family, Yu sent more than 5,000 letters to Lee over a span of about 20 years, becoming probably the most frequent guest to that post office.

His poem “Happiness” is carved into a stone set up next to the post office, while Kim’s "Flower’’ is on another stone nearby.

Other places such as Yun I-sang Memorial Hall, Jeon Hyuck-lim Art Museum and Park Kyung-ni Memorial Hall are also worth the pilgrimage. However, it would take extra effort as the two sites are situated across a bridge over a separate island.

A camellia flower in full blossom at Jangsado Sea Park

Breathing the history

Tongyeong also has historical significance as the site of one of the famous naval battles of Admiral Yi Sun-sin (1545-1598), whose victories against the Japanese Navy during the Imjin war (1592-1598) cemented him as a venerable hero among Koreans. One of his famous victories was the "Battle of Hansando," which took place in waters near Tongyeong.

Tributes to Yi are everywhere in Tongyeong, including several battle memorials and shrines dedicated to the great naval commander. An interesting site is the Sebyeonggwan Hall, the main building of the Tongyeong Samdo-sugun Tongjeyeong naval station of the Joseon Kingdom (1392-1910).

The Tongyeong base served as the central command station for the three other naval bases in the Gyeongsang, Jeolla and Chungcheong regions for nearly 300 years after its establishment in 1604, intended to honor Lee who died in battle.

The naval base was built around the pavilion Sebyeonggwan, which was where Yi oversaw the battle. This part of the hall is currently under renovation and will be open to public by the end of the year.

About 15 minute walk away, Chungnyeolsa Shrine, built in 1606, holds the portrait of admiral Yi. Visitors must pass through five gates that lead to the shrine. At the site, a 400-year-old camellia keeps the place graceful.

Enjoying scenic delight

Some of the best photos of the port city can be taken at sunset. The view over the canal from Chungmugyo Bridge is mesmerizing at dusk. Another great night view is of the Tongyeong Bridge which is a 591 meter long steel bridge that connects the mainland to Mireukdo. The 196 blue tint lights of the bridge are beautifully reflected over the canal at night.

The Undersea Tunnel is also a tourist attraction as it is the first underwater tunnel built in Asia in 1932. The concrete tunnel also leads from the mainland to the opposite island.

To view the port city from the waters, riding a yacht from the Tongyeong Yacht School can be a good alternative. A ride around the port and watching the seagulls fly above is a refreshing experience. A one-hour ride is 200,000 won per boat. So you may need to gather a group of people before you hop on.

If you’re a more adventurous type, willing to endure an hour-long boat ride that may cause seasickness, try going to Jangsado or Somaemuldo and Deungdaeseom islands.

Jangsado is about 50 minutes away from Tongyeong Harbor and is built as a park. The Jangsado Sea Park features 20 thematic gardens, an outdoor gallery and a great observatory. The park is famous for Camellia trees which are abundant throughout the park. The Camellia Tunnel is a great photo spot. To see the Camellia flowers, however, there’s not much time left as they are in full blossom until March.

The Somaemuldo and Deungdaeseom are two islands that are in vicinity about 20 minutes away from Jangsado. Strange yet fantastic looking rocks and columnar joints as well as a view over the boundless ocean is beautiful.

What to eat

Tongyeong is also famous for several of its local dishes.

As it is a port city, a variety of seafood is available in Tongyeong. But the two dishes most unique to the city are “dodari ssukguk” (flounder and mugwort soup) and “sea squirt bibimbap.” Both are worth trying even for those who don’t like seafood, because the fishy taste isn’t as strong as expected.

Tongyeong is also famous for the Chungmu laver rice roll. Chungmu is a former name of Tongyeong and the pseudonym of Admiral Yi. The rice roll isn’t stuffed with anything except rice, unlike other rice rolls, but is offered with side dishes such as spicy octopus and cuttlefish and radish kimchi with anchovy.

As for snacks, Omisa honey bread is the most popular in Tongyeong. The round, ball-looking bread is stuffed with red beans and is fried in oil and tempered in syrup. The name Omisa used to be the name of a next door dry cleaner’s but because the bread store became so famous for its taste, they took over the name and the laundry disappeared.