Jordan legend Gentry Humphrey launches sneaker brand in Korea

Gentry Humphrey has spent more than 30 years in the global sneaker industry, a run that puts him among the leading figures behind the Jordan Brand. He has now chosen Korea as the new stage for his work, and he credits actor Kim Seung-soo with solidifying his decision.

Humphrey sat down with the Hankook Ilbo recently in Seongsu-dong in eastern Seoul's Seongdong District. He said it was his 30th visit to Korea. He has come many times before, but entering the market himself, through his own brand, creates a distinct challenge.

Humphrey led product strategy and design at Nike and Jordan Brand over a long stretch of his career. He retired from Nike in 2021 and launched his own footwear brand, CODE by Gentry.

Korea was not the plan from the start. While he was still in the United States, he was at the stage of weighing the possibility. Meeting Kim clarified his thinking, he said.

Korea was not the plan from the start. While he was still in the United States, he was at the stage of weighing his options. Meeting Kim settled any doubts.

"I think there is a reason for every situation," he said. "When I was in the U.S., it was at the level of 'Should I try working in Korea?' But after meeting Kim, I became certain 'I really have to work here. I have to launch here.'"

Kim now leads CODE by Gentry's business in Korea. Humphrey said that working with him confirmed the two shared the same vision. What they agreed on first was the product itself — a shoe that carries a person's story. Humphrey does not treat footwear as a simple fashion item. He treats it as a way to express a person's life and experience.

"I think you have to understand that person's world," he said. "Just as Jordan poured the sweat and effort he spent on the basketball court into his shoes, I want to make shoes based on stories. I like making them so that when you buy the shoes, you get that person's history along with them."

Humphrey is preparing a shoe built on Kim's own story. Before designing, he asked Kim about everything, from his background to the movies and music he likes.

"I asked Kim Seung-soo what kind of life he has lived, what movies and music he likes," he said. "I'm designing it based on that story now. I also plan to release a shoe for Kim. In the end, it becomes a shoe that carries that person's history."

K-pop style shaping fashion trends

Over many visits, the change Humphrey has watched most closely is the reach of K-culture. He picked two words for today's market: growth and opportunity.

He also agreed with the assessment that the styling of K-pop artists is shaping global fashion trends.

"I agree 100 percent," he said. "It's the same in the U.S. Right now K-culture is having a huge influence on American hip-hop culture as well."

He said he is also developing a project for next year that would bring K-pop artists and American artists together. He believes performances and fashion can bridge artists from both countries.

He also took note of the strong influence of women consumers in Korea. "I got the impression that in Korea, women are driving shopping," he said. He plans to unveil a women's line next January.

Humphrey explained why he took on a new challenge after already building a stable career.

"When you take on a challenge and reach the edge of a cliff, don't you have to choose one of two things — jump off or fight? I chose to fight. So I'm trying to learn fast, and I'm working to collaborate with good people."

Behind every success

Humphrey also showed interest in sharing his experience with young designers. The collaboration he has in mind would involve making products with emerging designers and introducing their work to the market.

"I think behind a successful person there is always someone who helped them," he said. "I had hard times myself. Because I know what that's like, I want to be the ground that lets designers who are struggling now grow and succeed."

The project he is sketching out would have him work on a shoe together with an emerging designer, based on that designer's life and taste. He plans to produce about 200 pairs, raise the designer's profile and also share the sales revenue.

"I want to hear that designer's history and design shoes that match that person's code," he said. "It's a way to make their name known and at the same time give them a tangible opportunity. I want to become someone who gives the next generation of designers a few more opportunities."

This article from the Hankook Ilbo, the sister publication of The Korea Times, is translated by a generative AI system and edited by The Korea Times.