Mugunghwa
Brass sculpture of roses of Sharon in the main dining area of Mugunghwa / Courtesy of Mugunghwa
By Kim Da-ye
Korean Beef Sirloin with Assorted Vegetables
Royal Seafood Shinseollo
Mugunghwa, a high-end Korean restaurant on the top floor of the Lotte Hotel Seoul, reveals a different side of traditional Korean cuisine ― that it can be served in the multicourse style of French haute cuisine.
The restaurant offers courses only, and each dish is beautifully served in small portions. For the traditional side of its menu, Mugunghwa consulted an expert in the royal culinary art of the Joseon Kingdom while Michelin three-star French chef Pierre Gagnaire contributed to the modernization and globalization of the entire menu.
Mugunghwa’s answer to wine stewards in upscale Western restaurants is Korean traditional teas selected by the country’s 28th Wujeon Tea Master Kim Dong-gon and served by tea sommeliers. Its cellar also offers more than 40 wines that can match Korean cuisine.
This reporter tried the Chef Special Luncheon Menu (145,000 won). The course began with thinly sliced and dried vegetables as appetizers. The Master Gueolpan, a platter of eight different vegetables and meats to be wrapped in thin pancakes, was the epitome of the effort and time required to produce delicate royal cuisine. It was followed by porridge with fish, but there wasn’t much special about that.
The highlight and least conventional part of the course was fresh lobster stir fried with a very mild Korean chili paste. The contrast of the vivid red-orange of the lobster and the jade hue of the celadon plate was stunning.
The Royal Seafod Shinseollo was a hot pot with fresh seafood. The next part of the course, Korean Beef Sirloin with Assorted Vegetables, is most likely most diners’ favorite. The succulent meat served like chopped steak was marinated in sweet soy sauce to perfection.
With the main meal, accompanied by soup and several side dishes, one can choose between steamed rice and sea urchin bibimbap and the latter is highly recommended. The aroma of the sea urchin egg mixed with seasonal vegetables brings the taste of spring to your mouth. The course ended with a sorbet made of hallabong, a Korean citrus fruit similar to an orange.
The restaurant clearly represents Lotte Hotel’s effort to globalize hansik, or Korean food. Korean cuisine is rarely associated with “luxury,” so only four out of 23 five-star hotels in Seoul currently have a Korean restaurant. Lotte took one step further by making Mugunghwa one of its flagship restaurants. Mugunghwa is the Korean word for the rose of Sharon, the country’s national flower.
During a 5-billion-won renewal of the restaurant in 2010, the venue was moved from the basement to the 38th floor of the landmark hotel, replacing a VIP club lounge. The restaurant even has its own elevator. The venue offers the best view of the very heart of Seoul with Mt. Bukhan as a backdrop, especially at night.
The interior, designed by German designer Ines Gerlach, is modern with the theme colors of gold, silver and purple. The extensive use of gold and brass adds a hint of art deco style. The most beautiful part of the restaurant, in this reporter’s opinion, is the restroom that must be checked out.
The restaurant takes up half of the entire 38th floor, so is huge. With only 96 seats, each private room is spacious and the tables in the hall are scattered remotely, guaranteeing a quiet dining experience.
Address
38th floor, Lotte Hotel Seoul, 30 Euljiro, Jung-gu, Seoul
Directions
Near exits 7 and 8 of Euljiro 1-ga Station Line No. 2
Phone number
(02) 317-7061~2
Price
From 85,000 won to 303,000 won, inclusive of service charge and VAT
Opening hours
Lunch served from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., dinner from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. Open 365 days.
Parking
Free valet parking available for guests of Mugunghwa. Free for up to four hours at the hotel’s parking lot. Reserve for private rooms. Depending on availability, reservation can made on the day of dining
Reservation
Seven private rooms that cater to 2-30 people. There is a 10,000-won charge per person. Projectors can be rented for business meetings.
Frequented by
CEOs and other high-level executives. Businessmen who treat their clients, especially foreigners.
Recommended
Every month, chefs prepare two special courses with seasonal ingredients for both lunch and dinner. Special menus for April include “Stone pot bibimbap with seafood and fatsia shoot,” “nutritious porridge made of seasonal skate,” “Korean beef sirloin with assorted vegetables” and “sea urchin bibimbap.”
Special features
Korea traditional teas selected by Korea’s 28th Wujeon Tea Master Kim Dong-gon and served by tea sommeliers. An exclusive elevator to Mugunghwa in the hotel lobby.