Olive Young’s US debut draws buzz as shoppers question formulas

People pass by CJ Olive Young's store in southern Seoul in this file photo provided by the company. Yonhap

SEATTLE — When CJ Olive Young said it would open its first U.S. stores in California, the reaction was swift. On social media, K-beauty fans celebrated the idea of finally walking into a brick-and-mortar version of the Seoul retailer they have been ordering from for years.

For many shoppers here in the U.S., Olive Young is more than a chain. It represents what’s trending in Korea right now. The sheet masks stacked by the register. The sunscreen that sells out in Seoul before it appears on Instagram. The perception that you are getting the same products sold in Korea, not a separate export version.

That is why the excitement has come with a pointed question: will the products on U.S. shelves be exactly the same?

Since news of Olive Young’s U.S. expansion first surfaced, online forums have buzzed with questions about whether the products would remain unchanged.

“Most of the brands that sell a lot to the U.S. changed to a separate U.S. formula (aka worse) so I expect those will be the imports unless the FDA gets cool with a lot of technologies really quickly,” one Reddit user wrote.

Another commenter said the “key question” was whether stores would carry the “OG formulations” of sunscreens and other products containing SPF.

“Unless the brick-and-mortar store sells the original products, there’s no reason to shop there,” a third user added.

In response to questions about formulation differences, CJ Olive Young said it intends to carry products identical to those sold in Korea, provided they comply with U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regulations.

In a statement to The Korea Times, the company said it “aims to sell products identical to those offered in Korea,” adding that “most of the products planned for U.S. stores are based on FDA compliance.”

“However, if a brand chooses, certain ingredients or formulations may be adjusted to meet FDA standards,” it said. Such adjustments could include “modifying ingredient concentrations or using substitute ingredients in accordance with FDA guidelines.”

In other words, sameness where possible. Adjustments if required.

The issue is particularly sensitive in categories such as sunscreen, where the United States permits fewer UV filters than many Asian markets. That regulatory gap means some formulas sold in Korea may not translate directly to U.S. shelves.

Employees stock beauty products at a CJ Olive Young store in Seoul on Feb. 11. Yonhap

For ingredient-savvy consumers, that nuance matters.

K-beauty’s U.S. audience has matured. Shoppers compare ingredient lists across markets and debate texture differences in comment threads. Some specifically seek out Korean domestic versions because they prefer certain filters or finishes unavailable in the U.S.

“I don’t want western versions of Asian sunscreens,” says Sophia Kang, 34, who purchases from the Olive Young online store at least once every two months, adding that the U.S.-approved filters tend to feel “heavier and less elegant” than the Korean versions.

Robin Nguyen, a 22-year-old college student, who visited Korea twice already mainly for beauty procedures and products, says “the texture and finish of products are completely different,” adding that American versions can feel “thicker.”

“I’ll have to experience the products, but if they are different in any way, I’ll probably stock up on my next trip to Korea or buy them online,” she said.

Pricing is the other pressure point.

In Korea, Olive Young stores are ubiquitous and known for frequent promotions and rapid product turnover. Shoppers often drop in casually, picking up trending items at prices that feel within reach.

Transplanting that model to the U.S. is not simple. Retail rents are higher, labor costs are higher and importing inventory adds another layer of expense. Few expect Korean price tags to carry over unchanged, particularly in premium mall locations.

If formulas remain the same but prices rise, some shoppers may accept the tradeoff for convenience. But if formulas change and prices climb, expectations narrow.

Opening stores in the U.S. means operating under FDA rules, and some brands may adjust formulas to comply. Higher rents, labor and shipping costs are also likely to be reflected in pricing.

As the first opening date approaches in May, excitement is matched by scrutiny. Shoppers are ready to browse the aisles — and they are also prepared to read the ingredients list.