Jon Dunbar is a copy editor at The Korea Times, as well as editor of the Foreign Community page and curator of the Korea Times Archive. If you have suggestions for possible articles, or wish to contribute articles yourself, contact jdunbar@koreatimes.co.kr.
RESTAURANT OF THE WEEK This bar's Puerto Rican-style pulled pork will lift you up
A banner directs people upstairs to Uplift Seoul, a "bar-community-stage" in central Seoul's multicultural Gyeongnidan neighborhood, Dec. 7. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar
By Jon Dunbar
So many people have been talking up the pulled pork sandwich at Uplift Seoul, a bar until now known mainly for its social events and stage performances, including burlesque, drag and live music, but not for its food.
Curious, I stopped by on a Sunday evening to sample the culinary work of Rob Hernandez, one of the people running the bar that opened early this year.
It turns out that, yes, the place has a menu with four items: two soups and two sandwiches.
When I inquired about the pulled pork avocado sandwich, another customer sitting nearby remarked that it was very good.
Hernandez himself whipped up the sandwich, which was served in a soup bowl on a bed of ruffled potato chips and a single cornichon, or mini pickled cucumber.
A pulled pork avocado sandwich at Uplift Seoul, Dec. 7 / Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar
He explained that this version is Puerto Rican-style pulled pork, not as sweet as the U.S.-style pulled pork you might be more familiar with.
It certainly was savory, its richness soaking into the bread, delivering a delicious burst of flavor with every bite. Although the sandwich contains avocado spread and a few other toppings, the one that stood out the most to me was pickled red onion.
Hernandez prepares the pulled pork, describing it as an "after-school snack" he grew up on. He said he's been cooking since 8 years old, and preparing pulled pork since as long as he can remember.
A glass of coquito, or Puerto Rican-style coconut eggnog, is served with a cinnamon stick at Uplift Seoul. Courtesy of Uplift Seoul
Hernandez picked up these culinary traditions from his abuela (Spanish for grandmother), adding that her home was "the place you knew you could go at any time for a meal."
The pulled pork is one of two items on the menu passed down from his grandmother, the other being coquito, a Puerto Rican style of coconut eggnog made with condensed milk, evaporated milk (evaporated by Hernandez himself), rum, coconut, vanilla, star anise and a cinnamon stick. As Hernandez described the beverage, another nearby patron who had already ordered one loudly recommended it. This unique holiday drink is only on the menu for a limited time.
The sandwich is priced at a very reasonable 9,000 won, and a glass of coquito is 10,000 won. Hernandez said he wanted to "keep it cheap to spread my culture a little." Still, both would be worth it even if they were priced a little higher.
The vegan chili soup is served with slices of bread at Uplift Seoul, Dec. 7. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar
Right after I finished the sandwich, a bowl of vegan tomato soup arrived. Hernandez cautioned me that it was spicy, and while it definitely had some heat, it also had some sour notes reminiscent of a borscht — though with more kick than what my own Ukrainian grandmother would have fed me.
The soup is served with slices of bread perfect for dipping and mopping up the broth. Still, I wished I'd saved some of the sandwich to dip in the soup in what I imagine would be a perfect pairing.
The small menu also features a vegan chili soup I'm promised is even hotter, along with a basil pesto cheese sandwich I have yet to try. There are also plenty of simpler snacks, like nachos, popcorn and chips, if you're not up for a meal. For the holiday season they are also serving mulled wine and hot apple cider.
There isn't currently a take-out option, as this isn't a delivery kitchen and Hernandez has a lot of work to do catering to customers in house — which is fine; if you want takeout sandwiches, there are other options around the neighborhood.
Uplift is certainly not a typical dining establishment. In the time it has been active, it has worked hard to become a community gathering place of sorts and a platform for local events. With that in mind, if you're going to order a sandwich at Uplift, it's better to stay and enjoy the food — and atmosphere — in house.
Uplift opens at 5 p.m. on Wednesdays to Sundays. The advertised closing hour is 2 a.m. It is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, and may be closed some Sundays during the winter. Follow @upliftseoul on Instagram for more information.
This Friday, Uplift is hosting the premiere of two music videos by Kontrajelly and Pretty City Lights. Both acts will also perform live, joined by Fat Hamster and Rob Nichols. Entry is free.