Legacy of Gurye
By Choe Chong-dae
Despite some of my colleagues encouraging me to take a trip abroad, I instead decided recently to explore Gurye, South Jeolla Province. This picturesque county is home to two magnificent temples that I couldn't resist visiting ― Hwaeom Temple and Yeongok Temple. After a comfortable journey on a KTX train from Seoul, which took about two hours, I arrived in Gurye, ready to immerse myself in the beauty and serenity of these historic temples.
Nestled at the foot of Mount Jiri, Hwaeom Temple, also known as Flower Garland Temple, was founded in 554 by the Buddhist monk Yeongi-josa, who is believed to have come from India. This esteemed temple is home to numerous culturally significant treasures. Notable among these treasures is the Stone Lantern located at Gakhwangjeon Hall, the impressive East and West Five-story Stone Pagodas and the majestic Stone Lion Pagoda positioned in front of Wontongjeon Hall.
One particular feature that captivated me was the remarkable Four Lion Three-story Stone Pagoda situated in the enchanting northwestern region of the monastery. It consists of a three-story structure on a two-story platform, showcasing intricate carvings and designs.
The lower platform of the pagoda showcases exquisite carvings of Apsaras, celestial beings that perform a variety of art forms such as music, dance and praise. The intricate carvings of the Apsaras reflect the deep appreciation our ancestors held for music.
On the upper platform, four majestic lions are positioned at the corners. The first story of the main body showcases a carved door, where the sides are adorned with statues of Benevolent Kings, the Four Guardian Kings and Bodhisattvas. This distinctive pagoda represents the rich heritage and architectural brilliance of the monastery.
Yeongok Temple, established in 543, is situated in the picturesque Piagol Valley within Jirisan National Park. The valley's enchanting red-tinted autumn leaves have captivated numerous visitors, giving rise to the renowned adage credited to Confucian scholar Nammyeong Jo Sik (1501-72): “One cannot truly claim to have witnessed the beauty of autumn leaves without beholding the splendor of Piagol's fall foliage." The temple proudly houses valuable cultural artifacts including the East Stupa, the North Stupa, the Three-Story Stone Pagoda and the Stele for Master Hyeongak. Each treasure holds its own significant story, contributing to the temple's rich legacy.
Gurye, with its precious cultural heritage sites, holds more than just ancient historical significance. The legacy of Ahn Jong-sam (1903-77), the police chief of Gurye during the 1950-53 Korean War, continues to inspire admiration and captivate my heart. Ahn's remarkable act of saving 480 civilians from unjust execution stands as a testament to his unwavering commitment to justice and compassion.
In the face of orders to carry out the execution of prisoners suspected of being pro-North Korean leftists, Ahn recognized their innocence and, risking his own life, made the courageous and humanitarian decision to release them. This act of defiance set him apart from the government's widespread disregard for due process, while shining a light on his moral integrity and unwavering principles.
Ahn's selfless and extraordinary actions were not in vain, as he was rightfully promoted for his bravery. Today, his memory is honored by a statue in the yard of the Gurye police station, serving as a powerful reminder of the importance of justice and compassion in our society. His story continues to inspire generations, carrying a timeless message of humanity triumphing over adversity.
The unwavering determination and compassionate endeavors of Police Chief Ahn have left an indelible impression on me. With such an admirable legacy in mind, I am convinced that Gurye is a destination worthy of a visit.
Choe Chong-dae (choecd@naver.com) is a guest columnist of The Korea Times. He is president of Dae-kwang International Co., and director of the Korean-Swedish Association.