Do not go gentle into that good night, old age should burn and rave at close of day; Rage, rage against the dying of the light, though wise men at their end know dark is right, because their words had forked no lightning they, do not go gentle into that good night.
Saddle up in Mongolia: horseback trek through steppe
Travelers ride on horseback at the Mongolian steppe near the 13th Century National Park, June 21. Korea Times photo by Jhoo Dong-chan
By Jhoo Dong-chan
Learning to ride through wind under sky and stars
ULAANBAATAR — Mongolia, a vast and untamed land of open skies and endless plains, is one of the few places on earth where the ancient art of horseback travel is not only preserved but thriving.
For centuries, the horse has been at the heart of Mongolian identity, woven into its culture, economy and way of life. For modern travelers, learning to ride a horse in Mongolia and journeying across its rugged landscapes is more than just a vacation — it’s a deeply immersive experience into a nomadic way of life that still endures.
“Mongolia is home to more horses than people, and they’re not just animals of burden — they’re national symbols of freedom,” 23-year-old nomadic horseman Hashaa said while introducing Mongolian riding at a traditional ger stable near the 13th Century National Park, about 100 kilometers northeast of the country’s capital city of Ulaanbaatar.
“Compared to horses from other countries, Mongolian horses are smaller. But they’re more sturdy, famous for their stamina.”
Travelers prepare for an afternoon trek at the Mongolian steppe near the 13th Century National Park, June 21. Korea Times photo by Jhoo Dong-chan
Due to the horses' semi-wild nature and the older style of saddles used, it was sometimes challenging to ride in Mongolia. Unlike Western-style horse riding, Mongolian horsemanship emphasizes harmony with the animal and minimal use of reins.
“You need to build trust first,” Hashaa said.
“It is harmony between you and the horse. These magnificent creatures perceive everything you feel on its back, even fear. You don’t ride them. You travel together as companions.”
Learning from the best
Horseback riding lessons were informal but deeply rooted in tradition. Rather than riding in circles inside a fenced arena, learners were taken straight into the countryside.
Mongolian herders, many of whom have been riding since they could walk, teach by example. Riders were introduced to the basics — mounting, balance, posture and communication with the horse — through demonstration rather than structured instruction.
These lessons were intense for some travelers, considering many had never ridden horses before.
Some learners, especially those aged over 40, gave up riding due to lower back pain or blisters, but most managed to ride confidently through the vast Mongolian steppe after a few practice canters. A few even found themselves riding at full gallop across fields, under the open sky.
“I am not an athletic person, but I feel like I am a natural at riding horses,” said a 35-year-old Korean traveler surnamed Lee. “They say we, Koreans, are descendants of the ancient equestrian people. I guess they were right.”
Once basic riding skills are in place, the real adventure begins.
About 30 travelers set out across the steppe under a sky so big it seemed endless, above an earth where there were no fences, no landmarks or paths. We traveled a total of 80 kilometers on a round-trip trek, starting early in the morning.
Riding in Mongolia was not fast-paced but meditative. We became aware of the rhythm of our horses’ gaits, along with the pressure of the reins and the wind at our backs.
Travelers pause to let their horses drink at a shallow stream in the 13th Century National Park, June 21. Korea Times photo by Jhoo Dong-chan
Halfway through the journey, our group crossed a shallow stream where the horses paused to drink. On the other side, the landscape opened up even more — green, endless and dotted with white ger huts that looked like stars against the ground. Occasionally, we passed herders who waved at us in passing as they tended to their goats.
Many later reported experiencing aches and blisters, but we were all taken in by the ethereal spectacle of the Mongolian sunset at the end of the journey.
Traditional steamed dumplings called buuz and khorkhog, lamb cooked with hot stones, were offered for lunch and dinner at a ger during the trek.
By evening, the clouds had rolled in, casting long shadows across the steppe. The ride became an entirely different game, both physically and mentally, with the darkness making it harder to see.
The horses, however, seemed to gain energy with every kilometer, sensing the way home. By the time we returned to the starting point, the stars in the sky were coming out to welcome us.
“It was the experience of a lifetime. I felt more alive than I had in years,” Lee said after the trek.
“There is someone sacred in this simplicity. This isn’t about sightseeing or Instagram photos. It was about presence, harmony and connection. There is no word describing the feeling of finding myself under sky and stars while riding on horseback in the vast Mongolian steppe. I was totally over the moon.”