Cornerstone of Korea's independence

The Independence Arch and clubhouse in the early 1900s / Robert Neff Collection

By Robert Neff

On Nov. 21, 1896, a large crowd gathered to witness the laying of the cornerstone of the Independence Arch, a symbol of Korean independence. According to the English version of The Independent – a newspaper published in Seoul:

“The day was perfect: cloudless, warm and still; a more ideal day for an outdoor function could not be imagined. The road which leads from the city to Independence Park was filled with people at an early hour; and the grounds of the park, long before the hour for the ceremonies arrived, was crowded with spectators, both foreign and Korean.”

The site was decorated with evergreen branches and “the different flags of Korea; conspicuous among which was the new flag of the Independence Club, a pennant decorated with the usual design of the Korean flag, and the name of the club.” Honored guests were provided with chairs and sheltered from the elements by a large awning.

The Independence Arch – a symbol from the past – is surrounded by the prosperity of the present. Robert Neff Collection

Speeches were given by influential members of the community including missionaries, the governor of Seoul, the editor of The Independent and the minister of foreign affairs who strangely compared the United States and Poland. According to the newspaper:

“He made very logical and convincing arguments, that if the people work for the bright future, it will have great influence upon its being bright. He cited the histories of the United States of America and Poland. The greatness of America today is due to a few handfuls of men who worked for the independence of their country, a little over a century ago. The downfall of Poland is due to lack of harmony on the part of the Polish people. Therefore, Koreans can choose to be either an independent and great people like Americans, or become a part of some other nation and lose their sovereignty as well as their equality.”

Elizabeth Greathouse attended the celebration and was very impressed with the speeches and the performance of the Korean schoolboys who sang and did “some very good drilling.” While her description was anemic, The Independent provided much more detail and indicated that the students came from various schools – many of them educated by foreign instructors:

“The Royal English School students gave an exhibition of drilling, and as usual, they showed themselves worthy of being called the ‘crack’ company of Korean schools. More than two thousand school children from the Government and elementary schools sang several patriotic songs and waved their flags and colors, which each school brought with them. The Royal Russian, French and Japanese Schools were, also, ably represented by a large number of bright looking scholars who sang several patriotic songs.”

The Independence Club House is still surrounded by tall highrise apartments. Robert Neff Collection

After the ceremony, selected guests were invited into the Independence Club House for refreshments. Greathouse was especially impressed with the treatment she and her companions received: “[We] all gathered nearby to a large building, where a long table was filled with splendid viands and we were all waited on by the ‘rank’ and they seemed very proud to do it.”

Toasts were made by the various diplomats or their staff. Horace N. Allen assured Korea that the United States would always be one of its best friends. The Russian representative expressed Russia’s desire to always do “her neighborly duty by assisting in the maintenance of order in Korea” and to ensure “the perpetuity of Korea’s independence.” The Japanese representative “hoped that Korea [would] prosper and her independence be strengthened.” The British and German representatives were called upon to offer their own toasts but, disappointingly, they had already left the building. The celebration ended at dusk.

In her diary Greathouse proclaimed, “I am very glad I went, [I] never enjoyed myself more.”

Not everyone enjoyed themselves. John Jordan, the British consul general, was less than impressed with the arch and informed his superior that it was “needless to say, [that he] took no part in the proceedings…” He then, somewhat bitterly, explained:

“The American missionaries, who aspire to play a political role in this country, and who, apparently, guide the policy of their Legation, and a few Coreans in high position who received their education in the United States, are responsible for the folly of this undertaking, which was supported by contributions from the Russian Minister and his wife, who show great tact in humouring and controlling American opinion here.”

The beauty of the Independence Club House / Robert Neff Collection

He caustically noted the “absurdity of an independence symbolized by the presence of the King in a foreign legation.” At the time, King Gojong and the crown prince were temporarily residing in the Russian Legation.

Apparently Jordan was not the only one who found fault with the Korean king’s situation or policies. Shortly after the celebration, the newspaper reported:

“There are various reports in regard to the plot which some of the army officers are said to have planned, but at present the exact truth cannot be learned. Some say they intended to take His Majesty to the Palace when he comes to [Deoksu] Palace to offer sacrifices to the late Queen; others report that they planned to kill the Cabinet officers when they were returning home from the ceremony of the laying of the corner stone of Independence Arch last Saturday; and still another report is that they tried to bury dynamite either in the Russian Legation or [Deoksu] Palace for the purpose of blowing up the buildings and the inmates.”

The accused were quickly rounded up and, in a subsequent trial, it was learned they had planned on kidnapping the Korean monarch from the Russian Legation and moving him to Gyeongbok Palace. According to The Independent, “justice was administered to all parties concerned; the innocents went free and the guilty ones banished for fifteen years after receiving one hundred blows.”

Freedom and independence often comes with a cost, and all too often those who are held as patriots and friends are also seen as villains and profiteers – it is all a matter of perspective.

Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books, including Letters from Joseon, Korea Through Western Eyes and Brief Encounters.