Gangmae Village: Bridging the past with the present

With the shifting of Changneung Stream waterway and the construction of larger bridges, Gangmae Bridge in May 2023 is now merely a picturesque relic of the past. Robert Neff Collection

By Robert Neff

If you are a bicyclist in Seoul and enjoy riding on the northern bank of the Han River near Haengju Mountain Fortress, you are probably aware of Gangmae Village and its surrounding fields of rapeseed flowers and rice paddies ― but if not, you are truly missing a wonderful opportunity to temporarily step back in time.

One of the highlights of the area is a rather simple old building with a blue-tiled roof that doubles as a small roadside restaurant and supermarket. It is very reminiscent of the mom-and-pop supermarkets that were ubiquitous in the small towns and villages throughout the peninsula in the 1980s. The shop's offering of goods ― mainly candy, chips and drinks ― are kept behind the proprietor ― much like the small shops in the late 19th century. In addition to the snacks, the establishment also offers a limited menu of simple foods such as dumplings, instant noodles, Korean pancakes, canned fruit and dried snacks which can be washed down with beer.

This supermarket and its nearby dining area is very popular with bicyclists and hikers, January 2023. Robert Neff Collection

The dining area is a series of vinyl tents perched upon the bluff and gives a commanding view of the surrounding rice fields, streams and Gangmae Bridge. During the winter, patrons are kept warm with large heaters while during the summer, the relatively infrequent breezes from the surrounding hills or the nearby Han River provide welcomed relief from the heat ― unfortunately, mosquitoes reign in the evenings transforming the tranquility of the spot into a buzzing hell. Despite the mosquitoes, the place is fairly popular on the weekends and you may have to wait a little while to get a seat.

Whenever I ride through the area I like to imagine what the region was like 140 years ago. Gangmae was off the main path and, judging from Westerners' correspondences and articles, seems to have escaped the sightseeing expeditions of the Western communities in Seoul and Jemulpo. Even nearby Haengju Fortress remained terra incognita in the English-language accounts. Considering how common it was for the river steamboats and junks to run aground on the ever-shifting sandbars, it is possible that someone did visit the village but never felt the need to write about it.

Bicycles in racks and customers waiting for a table clearly indicate the popularity of this supermarket and rest area in Gangmae in May 2023. Robert Neff Collection

The villagers of Gangmae made their living by farming and gathering timber and brushwood ― most likely selling their goods in the larger villages at Susaek, Sinchon or even Seoul. Most likely they carried their wares on oxen or on their own backs. Regardless of the season, the trip would have been a fairly arduous one filled with dangers. In the 19th century, tigers and leopards prowled the wooded slopes of the many hills or lurked in the tall grass ready to pounce upon unwary travelers. These feline monarchs were replaced in the early 20th century by wolves which, surprisingly, appear to have been even more deadly than the tigers. Of course, four-legged creatures were not the only predators ― bandits and highwaymen were a constant scourge and often left no living eyewitnesses to their crimes.

There was a dock not far from the village where salted shrimp was unloaded and sold to the local population, so it is possible some of the villagers' goods were transported by these junks to one of the river ports ― Yanghwa or Mapo. This would have likely been a safer option but more expensive and inconvenient.

There are not as many customers waiting to sit at the dining area in January 2023. It is very reminiscent of the Korean countryside several decades ago. Robert Neff Collection

Gangmae Bridge was built at some time in the past, but no one is exactly sure when. According to one source dating back to the late 18th century, there was a bridge in this area known as Haepo Bridge. What became of it is unknown. Perhaps the streambed changed and it was no longer needed and thus fell into ruin and was lost through the passage of time.

According to Mark N. Trollope, an Anglican missionary, stone bridges were generally confined to Seoul and the immediate surrounding area but were "not unknown in the country." Usually these bridges were "confined to the high roads" leading from Seoul to major cities such as Pyongyang, but there were exceptions ― including a bridge near Gimpo that was part of the small road connecting Seoul with Ganghwa Island.

Gangmae Bridge in January 2023 Robert Neff Collection

Usually bridges were constructed of timber and branches and were usually dismantled during the rainy season in an effort to prevent them from being washed away by the seasonal floods. Perhaps Haepo Bridge was made from wood and was later replaced with the present stone of Gangmae Bridge.

Carved into the stone roadbed of the present bridge is the term "Gangmae-ri-gyo-gyeong-sinjo" which indicates the bridge was built in the year of Gyeongsin ― either 1860 or 1920. Some local historians claim the former date is correct but villagers ― reciting oral history ― claim the bridge was built in 1920 and paid for by a generous landowner surnamed Cha. Unfortunately, the information stone that once stood next to the bridge was destroyed during the Korean War.

The beauty of Gangmae Bridge as seen from below, January 2023 Robert Neff Collection

Retracing the steps of those who crossed in the past, January 2023 Robert Neff Collection

Even if you are not an old bridge enthusiast or a bicyclist, there are still plenty of things to see in the Gangmae area. A quaint fair is held in May in celebration of spring. People wander through the fields of blooming rapeseeds snapping pictures while eating snacks purchased at one of the many food booths. Carnival games, face painting and musical performances entertain those unwilling or too lazy to trek along the paths.

Energetic hikers can make their way along Changneung Stream to the Han River and stroll back into the past along the historical trail at the bottom of the hill where Haengju Fortress is located. Be warned: there are a lot of stairs on this trail.

As mentioned above, you can also visit Haengju Fortress which is easily accessible by car, bike or on foot. Entrance is free and the view from the peak is priceless (especially on a clear day) and ― if you are exhausted from all the hiking ― there is even an electric shuttle service between the entrance gate and the peak.

Urbanization is slowly creeping in through the construction of new apartment complexes and the improvement of the transportation infrastructure. I fear the Gangmae of today will soon be gone and replaced with a sterile and plastic-like replication of the past.

A small fair is filled with animated chatter and laughter, the smells of food and flowers and nostalgia of the past, May 2023. Robert Neff Collection

Changneung Stream on the left, rapeseed flowers on the right and in the distance Haengju Fortress Mountain and the Han River, May 2023 Robert Neff Collection

Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books, including Letters from Joseon, Korea Through Western Eyes and Brief Encounters.